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Well after 20000 km and 3 months I have to replace a bulb. Popped a high beam this morning. Silverstar Ultra's, so much for light output verses lifecycle balancing....
Somewhere I read that the Phillips bulbs have equivalent light output to the Sylvanias but a much longer lifespan. I'll be testing that theory shortly, I ordered the Phillips from Amazon and they should be here today.
 

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Thats right.

I know those bulbs come with a shroud over the low beam emitters. Did you have to index/rotate the bulb to get the proper cutoff? Also, I heard the shrouds are removable and should be removed for some applications. Did you try removing them to see if it changed the light output and cutoff?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Incorrect.

There are screws on the other side which allow removal of the shield.
Oh ok I guess I didn't look at them that closely. I didn't try removing them the cutoff was fine with them. you wouldn't want to take them off. The shield is there to give the bulbs a sharp cutoff. Without them they would be no better than an hid with no shade in the factory housing. some leds only light up one side of the bulb for low and the other for high. The pcb acts like a shade. However in the case of the bulbs I tested they light up both sides. They use the shielded set of leds as the low beams.
 

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So did you rotate them so they were vertical with the shroud blocking the the light from hitting the bottom of the reflector?
Also I have heard that some applications like the 2007 bulb in a Jeep need to have the shroud removed and the housing/reflector handles the cutoff.
 

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If you inspect a H13 halogen bulb closely you will notice that it does not include any shield over the low beam filament. It is not part of the design and thus any LED counterpart should not include it as well. In fact if you see any LED bulb listed in a H13 application that does include a shield you should stay away from it because the manufacturer of the bulb has not truly designed a proper H13 LED. All they have done is taken a H4 designed bulb (because it contains a low & high beam in one) and simply rebased it for ALL other dual filament applications. This is a cheap way for them to be able to provide a bulb for every application without having to design a new properly laid out pcb that aligns the LED arrays in the exact position as the original filaments.

Below are images of the H13 halogen vs. LED Gen 7 *with* shield vs. LED Gen 7 *without* shield. You will see that the shield greatly effects the beam pattern in a negative manner. The hotspot has basically been reduced in half. This loss of focused output has also affected the width of the beam. Lux readings show a loss of over 200 lux in the hotspot center!

And while glare above the cutoff (with the shield) is actually quite good and nearly identical to stock, the tradeoff is a poor beam pattern. The glare with the shield removed is about double the glare over halogen. Its not good unfortunately.

H13 halogen


LED Gen 7 with shield


LED Gen 7 without shield
 

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If you inspect a H13 halogen bulb closely you will notice that it does not include any shield over the low beam filament. It is not part of the design and thus any LED counterpart should not include it as well. In fact if you see any LED bulb listed in a H13 application that does include a shield you should stay away from it because the manufacturer of the bulb has not truly designed a proper H13 LED. All they have done is taken a H4 designed bulb (because it contains a low & high beam in one) and simply rebased it for ALL other dual filament applications. This is a cheap way for them to be able to provide a bulb for every application without having to design a new properly laid out pcb that aligns the LED arrays in the exact position as the original filaments.

Below are images of the H13 halogen vs. LED Gen 7 *with* shield vs. LED Gen 7 *without* shield. You will see that the shield greatly effects the beam pattern in a negative manner. The hotspot has basically been reduced in half. This loss of focused output has also affected the width of the beam. Lux readings show a loss of over 200 lux in the hotspot center!

And while glare above the cutoff (with the shield) is actually quite good and nearly identical to stock, the tradeoff is a poor beam pattern. The glare with the shield removed is about double the glare over halogen. Its not good unfortunately.

H13 halogen


LED Gen 7 with shield


LED Gen 7 without shield
Is there a way to properly remove the shield from the led g7?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I just ordered the led bulbs that you put in on the stock housings. If they work great I’m happy. I just have to wonder that even with a proper cutoff are they going to pi** off everyone in the oncoming lane? I’m stationed in Hawaii and it seems that here no one cares about that, but when I go back to upstate New York I would like to not put a 3rd deer through my grille. Just wondering what your experience was ?
 

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I had Philips Xtreme Vison halogen bulbs for awhile, but driving dark back roads on my commute left me wanting more. After a lot of research I decided to try a set of Hikari Ultra LEDs. Cost was $90 through Amazon and the quality is very nice and the fans are near silent. I bought the extra canbus adaptors, but they seem to work fine without them. 6000k white/hint of blue temp, nice stock like beam pattern with good cutoff. On road pic really doesn't do them justice.
 

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I had Philips Xtreme Vison halogen bulbs for awhile, but driving dark back roads on my commute left me wanting more. After a lot of research I decided to try a set of Hikari Ultra LEDs. Cost was $90 through Amazon and the quality is very nice and the fans are near silent. I bought the extra canbus adaptors, but they seem to work fine without them. 6000k white/hint of blue temp, nice stock like beam pattern with good cutoff. On road pic really doesn't do them justice.
Do you have projectors or reflector lights(gen1or L/LS gen2)?

Because those have big old flares above the cutoff. That glare is why so many people say to stick with the style bulb the lamp was designed for.

With that said I've got a set of Diode Dynamics SL1s ordered for the fogs in my '18. Plan is to modify the housing/lens in order to limit in front of car foreground lighting and hope to use the largely as cornering style lamps to dramatically widen field of lighting of pathetic stock projectors until I can retrofit in a better projector.
 

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Do you have projectors or reflector lights(gen1or L/LS gen2)?

Because those have big old flares above the cutoff. That glare is why so many people say to stick with the style bulb the lamp was designed for.
.
As good as it's going to get in a stock Gen1 headlight. Driving down the road you don't see those "flares". Aftermarket Gen1 housings suck and retrofits are $500-$800. At least you have a projector to start with in a gen 2.
 

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Do you have projectors or reflector lights(gen1or L/LS gen2)?

Because those have big old flares above the cutoff. That glare is why so many people say to stick with the style bulb the lamp was designed for.
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As good as it's going to get in a stock Gen1 headlight. Driving down the road you don't see those "flares". Aftermarket Gen1 housings suck and retrofits are $500-$800. At least you have a projector to start with in a gen 2.
Only LTs and higher have projectors, and I've actually been considering swapping I've to base model reflector lights in order to more easily accomplish the the retrofit I want.
$500-800 isn't a whole lot for an aesthetic and safety upgrade. Gotta pay to play, better to do it right once.
Driving down the road you don't see those "flares"
You don't, but oncoming does.
EXACTLY...
 
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