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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, so I have a 2012 Chevy Cruze Eco 1.4 L Turbo Engine. In the past year, I have had so many problems with my Cruze, granted it has 224,000 miles on it, so I expect some problems. This is what I have replaced (here we go, it's long): Turbo charger, thermostat, water pump, serpentine belt, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, clutch, purge valve, MAP, MAF, turbo boost sensor, valve cover, oil pan, oil cooler, bilateral solenoid, multiple hoses, speed sensors, crankcase seal, turbo oil feed line, battery, negative battery cable, possibly more, I can't remember all of them.

So this is my dilemma, when my car was running prior to going into limp mode, the radiator fan wouldn't stop blowing, but other than that, it ran smooth. Although, it is now not wanting to stay on, and the idle seems to loop. No black or blue smoke, no visible leaks, no clunks or squealing, I am trying to make this car last until I get my paramedic certification. I am under no illusions that it will last forever, but it has been a great car up until about 200,000 miles. The codes I'm seeing are as follows:

P0106-Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0236-Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Sensor 'A' Circuit Range/Performance
P0237-Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Sensor 'A' Circuit Low
P112D- Intake Air Temperature (AIT) sensor 3 circuit high voltage

I cannot afford to take it to a dealership to get it fixed, so I am trying my best to use resources such as yourselves to fix it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 

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Hey guys, so I have a 2012 Chevy Cruze Eco 1.4 L Turbo Engine. In the past year, I have had so many problems with my Cruze, granted it has 224,000 miles on it, so I expect some problems. This is what I have replaced (here we go, it's long): Turbo charger, thermostat, water pump, serpentine belt, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, clutch, purge valve, MAP, MAF, turbo boost sensor, valve cover, oil pan, oil cooler, bilateral solenoid, multiple hoses, speed sensors, crankcase seal, turbo oil feed line, battery, negative battery cable, possibly more, I can't remember all of them.

So this is my dilemma, when my car was running prior to going into limp mode, the radiator fan wouldn't stop blowing, but other than that, it ran smooth. Although, it is now not wanting to stay on, and the idle seems to loop. No black or blue smoke, no visible leaks, no clunks or squealing, I am trying to make this car last until I get my paramedic certification. I am under no illusions that it will last forever, but it has been a great car up until about 200,000 miles. The codes I'm seeing are as follows:

P0106-Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0236-Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Sensor 'A' Circuit Range/Performance
P0237-Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Sensor 'A' Circuit Low
P112D- Intake Air Temperature (AIT) sensor 3 circuit high voltage

I cannot afford to take it to a dealership to get it fixed, so I am trying my best to use resources such as yourselves to fix it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Based on the codes you have, the MAP/IAT sensor has died. It is a combination manifold temp/pressure sensor. This would also indicate why your car isn't running very well.
2012 CHEVROLET CRUZE 1.4L L4 Turbocharged Manifold Pressure (MAP) Sensor | RockAuto
Buy the AC delco one part #55567257. It's $30 CAD (20USD). It is one bolt and a connector to change. Very easy.I don't know your particular engine well but it should be ontop of the intake manifold once you pull the cover. Just look for something that resembles what's in the picture and is held in place with a 10 mm hex cap screw.

Good luck with your program.

Andrew
 

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^^^^^Agreed. And if that fails either ECU, OR get a wiring diagram and make sure everything is suppose to be where it is, that all electrical connections are clean & secured.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
UPDATE!!
So, I gave in and took it to reputable shop, they initially were dumbfounded too, but eventually found that it was the turbocharger pressure sensor and the MAF sensor was faulty that I had originally purchased. He changed all of them out and is now running and doing well. Thank you all for your advice, as always it is really nice to hear your thoughts and advice.
 

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UPDATE!!
So, I gave in and took it to reputable shop, they initially were dumbfounded too, but eventually found that it was the turbocharger pressure sensor and the MAF sensor was faulty that I had originally purchased. He changed all of them out and is now running and doing well. Thank you all for your advice, as always it is really nice to hear your thoughts and advice.
Glad you got it fixed :)
Sucks that you got a bad part initially. That happens sometimes especially when you go with aftermarket stuff. For sensors I almost always go OEM. Saves a lot of headache. My theory is if the original part lasted 100k miles then the replacement will as well. When you go with cheaper aftermarket parts you don't get that guarantee. Been burned too many times to count now. For other things that aren't electronic, save money where you can.
 
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