Losing electrical power while driving

21710 Views 19 Replies 10 Participants Last post by revjpeterson, Dec 20, 2018

starspangled6.0

Discussion Starter · Jul 25, 2017

I'm currently stationed in an extremely humid and wet environment, and I've been chasing a strange gremlin for a few months now. Today was the worst episode:

99% of the time, my car works great. 0.5% of the time, however, it will cut power to the radio and interior lights whenever I shut off the car. Very shortly after this, the radio will power back on, not in its normal sense, but almost like it was just a hiccup and it didn't lose full power. The other 0.5%... well that's when the radio burps while I'm driving, but I also lose steering, too. It happened twice today when I was leaving a parking lot, at low speed. Nothing major, besides the radio going out and loss of power steering. The motor didn't hiccup, nor did the brakes die out.

My first thoughts are some kind of grounding issue, especially since we received several inches of rain today. I checked the ground wires when I got home, but nothing was loose our out of place during a visual check. However, the hot wire I had attached to the battery for my fog lamp install was loose, so I tightened it up.

Any thoughts? I'm guessing as it dries up, like before, the problem will go away. I'd like to make it a permanent fix, though.

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

IndyDiesel

· #2 · Jul 25, 2017

How old is your battery? Have you cleaned the battery cables? Was their a recall on the ground cable from battery? I think on early 14 diesels there may have been a ground cable bulletin or recall.

Reactions: 3

starspangled6.0

Discussion Starter · #3 · Jul 25, 2017

Battery was replaced when my injector died over Easter. The cables were very tight when I checked them tonight, and the car only saw road salt for a few short days in its entire life.

Not too sure about the ground cable recall....

Tomko

· #4 · Jul 25, 2017

starspangled6.0 said:
Battery was replaced when my injector died over Easter. The cables were very tight when I checked them tonight, and the car only saw road salt for a few short days in its entire life.

Not too sure about the ground cable recall....

I'm with Indy on this. The ground cable crimp could be bad.

Reactions: 2

IndyDiesel

· #5 · Jul 25, 2017

If the ground is bad or a goofy battery it can cause really unpredictable stuff with our cars that don't make sense, weird transmission shifts, my link issues, poorly running car in general. I haven't had these issues, but several others have.

Reactions: 2

Rivergoer

· #6 · Jul 25, 2017

The cable is a very cheap place to start. Ordered this new negative cable from Rock Auto last weekend, should be here next week.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/acdelco,22754271,battery+cable,2500

Not currently having any 'symptoms' but figured for $20 I'd have one at the ready if/when the time comes.

Since I'm not the orig owner, I wondered if the cable had ever been replaced. Based on the date stamp on the tag I'm guessing it's the original.

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Reactions: 1

starspangled6.0

Discussion Starter · #7 · Jul 25, 2017 (Edited)

Not a bad idea. I had zero issues this morning, but I wouldn't be surprised if that gremlin returns.

I'll call the dealer today and see if they can just swap in a new cable for free.

Reactions: 3

Velasquez1802

· #8 · Jul 25, 2017

I once had this problem with my 2012 Cruze LT, I got this fixed by cleaning and brushing the battery terminals and cable terminals.
Hope this helps.

Reactions: 3

obermd

· #9 · Jul 25, 2017

Are the CTDs covered under http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/25-g...l-coverage-14311-negative-battery-cable.html? If so I would take the car in and ask for this service be completed as you're having strange electrical issues.

Reactions: 5

ChevyGuy

· #10 · Jul 25, 2017

obermd said:
Are the CTDs covered under http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/25-g...l-coverage-14311-negative-battery-cable.html? If so I would take the car in and ask for this service be completed as you're having strange electrical issues.

I'd create an account with "My Chevrolet" and see if it comes up in the special coverage.

Diesels have different wiring, so it's a different part and probably not covered. However, I know at of at least one report on here of electrical problems (poor battery charge) fixed by completely redoing all the high amperage cables.

But I'd check for coverage before spending a lot of time trying to set up an appointment with a dealer. Not unless you're going to have them check out the car.

Reactions: 2

Rivergoer

· #11 · Jul 25, 2017

I am pretty sure Special Coverage #14311 covers both gas and diesel models. It does not single out either engine type or any other specific models, just certain model years.

https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/jaxrs/download/doc/UCM507523/SB-10057574-8899.pdf

The Special Coverage does call for replacement with new part #22754271.

Rock Auto lists ACDelco part #22754271 as superseding three other part numbers, one of which is the original negative battery cable on my '14 CTD (Part #95285136).

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/acdelco,22754271,battery+cable,2500

For $20 bucks, not worth the hassle of going to the dealership. I ordered the cable from RockAuto and I'm going to keep it around as insurance if/when the time comes that my CTD's electrical starts going mental.

For now (67K miles) no issues.

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Blasirl

· #12 · Jul 25, 2017

Rivergoer said:
For $20 bucks, not worth the hassle of going to the dealership. I ordered the cable from RockAuto and I'm going to keep it around as insurance if/when the time comes that my CTD's electrical starts going mental.

For now (67K miles) no issues.

Good points, but I like pulling into the dealer, handing over the keys, getting a cup of coffee, reading the latest Hotrod, getting my keys back and leaving with a new cable all for no charge.

Reactions: 2

ChevyGuy

· #13 · Jul 26, 2017 (Edited)

Rivergoer said:
I am pretty sure Special Coverage #14311 covers both gas and diesel models. It does not single out either engine type or any other specific models, just certain model years.

The exact wording is "On certain 2011–2015 model year Chevrolet Cruze vehicles". It says "certain", not "all". It goes on to say "All involved vehicles are identified by Vehicle Identification Number on the Applicable Warranties section in GM Global Warranty Management system." Which is pretty much what I'm saying to do with a "My Chevrolet" account.

If you're not covered, then that dealer trip is likely on your dime, not GM's. Especially if you're outside of B2B.

Poking around, I'm not able to figure out what models are different. According to GMPartsDirect, all 2014 seem to use the same part number for the cable. But it's possible that the updated part number covers multiple models where the affected part did not.

Reactions: 2

starspangled6.0

Discussion Starter · #14 · Jul 26, 2017

I spoke with the service rep today, and she immediately recognized that my 2014 was under a special coverage for that cable. They'll check it out first thing next week. They're 10 minutes away, and while I absolutely abhor the idea of other people working on my car, when they're offering free parts, it's hard to pass up.

Reactions: 4

ChevyGuy

· #15 · Jul 26, 2017

starspangled6.0 said:
I spoke with the service rep today, and she immediately recognized that my 2014 was under a special coverage for that cable.

Sounds like a keeper of a dealer.

Reactions: 2

IndyDiesel

· #16 · Jul 26, 2017

starspangled6.0 said:
I spoke with the service rep today, and she immediately recognized that my 2014 was under a special coverage for that cable. They'll check it out first thing next week. They're 10 minutes away, and while I absolutely abhor the idea of other people working on my car, when they're offering free parts, it's hard to pass up.

I prefer to work on my car myself as well when possible, but cars are so complicated today having a honest dealer can be an asset. Sounds like this should fix your issues. Thanks for sharing with the forum.

Reactions: 1

starspangled6.0

Discussion Starter · #17 · Jul 31, 2017

They took my car in at 0800 this morning, and by 0830 I was back in the driver's seat with a brand new negative battery terminal. Kudos to this dealership. The service rep was even asking me how I liked it the car... seemed like she was interested in getting a diesel in the near future. You should have seen her face when I said they can hit 1000 miles to the tank

.

My money is still on that hot wire I have on the terminal for my fog lamps, but I'm glad to have the cable replaced under warranty. I plan on re-wiring that hot cable to a more secure location soon, and will report back if there's any similar gremlins that pop up down the road.

BDCCruze

· #18 · Dec 19, 2018 (Edited)

Folks,

I want to do this repair myself just to resolve a possible electrical issue I'm having. But looking at the repair steps, it seems a lot of other cables need to be removed and other parts are listed. Look at steps 5 and on at this link, why do we need to do all that to replace a cable with just 2 bolts?

https://gm.oemdtc.com/1138/special-...battery-cable-loose-2011-2015-chevrolet-cruze

Are we certain #22754271 is the only thing we need? We are certain the "bad crimp" is the big cable, and not the smaller starter ground that bolts on the side? Looking at my car it looks like just removing the battery cable from the battery terminal, and unscrewing it from the frame ground, then rerunning the new cable through the sensor is all that should be needed, so all these other steps are just confusing me.

Rivergoer

· #19 · Dec 19, 2018

BDCCruze said:
Folks,

I want to do this repair myself just to resolve a possible electrical issue I'm having. But looking at the repair steps, it seems a lot of other cables need to be removed and other parts are listed. Look at steps 5 and on at this link, why do we need to do all that to replace a cable with just 2 bolts?

https://gm.oemdtc.com/1138/special-...battery-cable-loose-2011-2015-chevrolet-cruze

Are we certain #22754271 is the only thing we need? We are certain the "bad crimp" is the big cable, and not the smaller starter ground that bolts on the side? Looking at my car it looks like just removing the battery cable from the battery terminal, and unscrewing it from the frame ground, then rerunning the new cable through the sensor is all that should be needed, so all these other steps are just confusing me.

I did mine in March, took about 15 minutes with simple hand tools. Easy Peazy.

Be sure to pass the new cable through the ‘loop’ that monitors current/voltage flow. Other than that it’s pretty straight forward, just connect both ends like the original.

During install I ran into a small glitch. The new cable did not have the small threaded-stud side terminal on the battery end. A small secondary ground cable attaches to this post.

I tried to remove the stud from the old cable using vise grips but no joy.

So I dug through the tool box and found an old jet ski battery battery bolt. It fit perfectly into the threaded hole.

RED - Old cable end showing threaded stud
GREEN - New cable installed with jet ski battery bolt

So just a note, if you order a cable online be prepared to ‘modify’ as needed to attach the small secondary ground cable at the battery end should yours come the way mine did.

More details HERE starting with post #200

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Reactions: 1

revjpeterson

· #20 · Dec 20, 2018

Rivergoer said:
I did mine in March, took about 15 minutes with simple hand tools. Easy Peazy.

Be sure to pass the new cable through the ‘loop’ that monitors current/voltage flow. Other than that it’s pretty straight forward, just connect both ends like the original.

During install I ran into a small glitch. The new cable did not have the small threaded-stud side terminal on the battery end. A small secondary ground cable attaches to this post.

I tried to remove the stud from the old cable using vise grips but no joy.

So I dug through the tool box and found an old jet ski battery battery bolt. It fit perfectly into the threaded hole.

RED - Old cable end showing threaded stud
GREEN - New cable installed with jet ski battery bolt

So just a note, if you order a cable online be prepared to ‘modify’ as needed to attach the small secondary ground cable at the battery end should yours come the way mine did.

More details HERE starting with post #200

I ran into that same glitch. I just took the old battery cable to my local hardware store, measured the thread on the stud, and paid like 14 cents for a screw that matched it.

Reactions: 1

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