[Rivergoer]

The cable is a very cheap place to start. Ordered this new negative cable from Rock Auto last weekend, should be here next week.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/acdelco,22754271,battery+cable,2500

Not currently having any 'symptoms' but figured for $20 I'd have one at the ready if/when the time comes.

Since I'm not the orig owner, I wondered if the cable had ever been replaced. Based on the date stamp on the tag I'm guessing it's the original.

 

[Rivergoer]

I am pretty sure Special Coverage #14311 covers both gas and diesel models. It does not single out either engine type or any other specific models, just certain model years.

https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/jaxrs/download/doc/UCM507523/SB-10057574-8899.pdf

The Special Coverage does call for replacement with new part #22754271.

Rock Auto lists ACDelco part #22754271 as superseding three other part numbers, one of which is the original negative battery cable on my '14 CTD (Part #95285136).

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/acdelco,22754271,battery+cable,2500

For $20 bucks, not worth the hassle of going to the dealership. I ordered the cable from RockAuto and I'm going to keep it around as insurance if/when the time comes that my CTD's electrical starts going mental.

For now (67K miles) no issues.

 

[Rivergoer]

Folks,

I want to do this repair myself just to resolve a possible electrical issue I'm having. But looking at the repair steps, it seems a lot of other cables need to be removed and other parts are listed. Look at steps 5 and on at this link, why do we need to do all that to replace a cable with just 2 bolts?

https://gm.oemdtc.com/1138/special-...battery-cable-loose-2011-2015-chevrolet-cruze

Are we certain #22754271 is the only thing we need? We are certain the "bad crimp" is the big cable, and not the smaller starter ground that bolts on the side? Looking at my car it looks like just removing the battery cable from the battery terminal, and unscrewing it from the frame ground, then rerunning the new cable through the sensor is all that should be needed, so all these other steps are just confusing me.

I did mine in March, took about 15 minutes with simple hand tools. Easy Peazy.

Be sure to pass the new cable through the ‘loop’ that monitors current/voltage flow. Other than that it’s pretty straight forward, just connect both ends like the original.

During install I ran into a small glitch. The new cable did not have the small threaded-stud side terminal on the battery end. A small secondary ground cable attaches to this post.

I tried to remove the stud from the old cable using vise grips but no joy.

So I dug through the tool box and found an old jet ski battery battery bolt. It fit perfectly into the threaded hole.

RED - Old cable end showing threaded stud
GREEN - New cable installed with jet ski battery bolt



So just a note, if you order a cable online be prepared to ‘modify’ as needed to attach the small secondary ground cable at the battery end should yours come the way mine did.

More details HERE starting with post #200