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Is there any driveability issues or codes set associated with this ticking? Lots of gm motors have a tick with no ill effects.
 

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Hmmmm .... Interesting replies. Mine (2014) sure sounds like tappet slap and I didn't read anybody thinking this. I am going to see if these have solid lifters where the gap of the rockers and lifter is what causes the noise.
 

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All I can tell you is my noise started to cause P0324 and my car was useless to drive. I took it back to the dealer and was told could be this or that, my mechanic came back from holiday and said it sounded like lifter(s). The thought of taking things apart and doing this and that.....forget it, I swapped the motor in my 2013 with a certified 2015 that came with a 2 year parts and labor warranty. I had 220k on the first one, even if i get half of that on this one I'll be happy.
 

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Getting close to 300K on my 2013 ECO and the ticking started - lots of hesitation and loss of power - and a CEL. I pulled the spark plugs and found them to be not very snug but not tapping loose either. Using an engine stethoscope ($3 at HF) I found the noise was coming from the intake side between #3 - #4 and was most likely a hyd lash lifter/adjuster that had collapsed. I looked into replacing them and it seemed to be not beyond my capabilities but if there is a cheap easy way to try first I'm going to do that. I got a bottle of Motor Medic VALVEMEDIC at the auto parts store $5 - followed the directions TO THE LETTER - it took about 5 miles of Interstate driving and all the sudden it was like someone threw a switch! "Feel that V-Tech -- Yo!" (I know it's not V-Tech but I had to say something). This stuff worked for me and if you have loud ticking maybe you should try it too.
 

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2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red, 1.4T Auto
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Getting close to 300K on my 2013 ECO and the ticking started - lots of hesitation and loss of power - and a CEL. I pulled the spark plugs and found them to be not very snug but not tapping loose either. Using an engine stethoscope ($3 at HF) I found the noise was coming from the intake side between #3 - #4 and was most likely a hyd lash lifter/adjuster that had collapsed. I looked into replacing them and it seemed to be not beyond my capabilities but if there is a cheap easy way to try first I'm going to do that. I got a bottle of Motor Medic VALVEMEDIC at the auto parts store $5 - followed the directions TO THE LETTER - it took about 5 miles of Interstate driving and all the sudden it was like someone threw a switch! "Feel that V-Tech -- Yo!" (I know it's not V-Tech but I had to say something). This stuff worked for me and if you have loud ticking maybe you should try it too.
Welcome Aboard!:welcome:

"Feel that ECOTEC-- Yo!"

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.

For those of you who live in Oceanside CA, it is a $1.99 ea here: https://www.rvautoparts.com/view_cart.asp

It's the shipping that kills it though.
 

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Getting close to 300K on my 2013 ECO and the ticking started - lots of hesitation and loss of power - and a CEL. I pulled the spark plugs and found them to be not very snug but not tapping loose either. Using an engine stethoscope ($3 at HF) I found the noise was coming from the intake side between #3 - #4 and was most likely a hyd lash lifter/adjuster that had collapsed. I looked into replacing them and it seemed to be not beyond my capabilities but if there is a cheap easy way to try first I'm going to do that. I got a bottle of Motor Medic VALVEMEDIC at the auto parts store $5 - followed the directions TO THE LETTER - it took about 5 miles of Interstate driving and all the sudden it was like someone threw a switch! "Feel that V-Tech -- Yo!" (I know it's not V-Tech but I had to say something). This stuff worked for me and if you have loud ticking maybe you should try it too.
This worked for me! Thank you! Do you have to put a bottle in at every oil change?
 

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I have read what I can see to be all of the threads on the internet and these forums. I understand that it may be the fuel injectors, however my engine did not sound like this the first 20,000 miles I put on it. And now after an oil change at the dealer it sounds like this! I dont think so! I am not a mechanic but I know a few things about cars. I have been through a plethora of problems in the past with a variety of cars. I would just like for once for someone to tell me exactly what is making that noise. How hard is it! Sorry for the vent its just highly frustrating!
I have a similar problem I pulled my valve cover off and and found that the Gide that the timing chain rides on the two bolts were backing them selves out The sound was a tick that increase with rpm So naturally I thought the worst Hope this helps
 

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Hey all I just started to notice this loud ticking noise coming from the top middle of my engine bay above engine block. I should have known something might go wrong when i had to go back to the dealer after my oil change becuase my air pressure sensors were showing that one of my tires had 25 PSI and the other 3 were at 34. Yes I checked that they put oil in the car. I always check everything out after I have any one else touch my car besides me. My engine has always been very quiet until now. I am not just being sensitive to the usual workings of the car. Something is causing this noise and I want to know what it is! Please listen to attached audio for more details. I have found a couple of other chevy owners who have posted similar sounds on youtube but there was no comments on their videos! if you have any ideas on wha this is let me know asap! I am bringing the car to the dealer in a couple days and would like to have some of my own ideas as to what the noise is to discuss with them so I dont get the usual bs back.


Thanks! AUDIO HERE!!!
i also have a 2012 i now have what sounds to me like valve tap i did make a boo boo changed the valve cover but forgot the oil cap so i had oil everywhere cleaned motor up i was told it could be there is to much oil in the motor and the oil is going over the crank not sure but maybe see if the oil has bubbles
 

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2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red, 1.4T Auto
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i also have a 2012 i now have what sounds to me like valve tap i did make a boo boo changed the valve cover but forgot the oil cap so i had oil everywhere cleaned motor up i was told it could be there is to much oil in the motor and the oil is going over the crank not sure but maybe see if the oil has bubbles
Welcome Aboard!(y)

Since you have already changed the valve cover once, you should read this if you haven't
2011-2016 Cruze 1.4 PCV Valve Cover/Intake Manifold Issues

This is my standing click, tick and rattle list (Thanks to many people including JBlackburn, Robby, BigLee and more) :

1. Could be just the injectors


2. Could be the plastic ECOTEC cover rattling

3. Check that the spark plugs are properly torqued - similar sound, mimics loose valves - Re-gap the plugs to .028, torque to 18 ft-lbs,no anti-seize with stock type plugs, inspect the boots and insure no rips / tears or holes, lightly coat the boots with silicone / dielectirc grease, make sure the resister springs are clean and not cocked in the boots.
These are the recommended plugs from the Hesitation Gone thread:
-BKR8EIX-2668 (iridium plugs), ~$25, expect ~10-15k regaps on these, ~40-50k overall life.
-BKR7E-4644 (nickel/copper plugs), ~$8, expect 15-25K out of these plugs, with a regap or two required at 5-8k intervals on stock tune.

4. Could be a failing EVAP purge solenoid/valve or possibly a vacuum leak causing the purge valve to stay open. You can find it right above your intake manifold.
Unplug the electrical connector to the purge solenoid while it's running, and see if the noise goes away. If it does, replace the purge solenoid assembly.
Many of these tend to get very noisy with age, and since it is duty cycled by the PCM it tends to sound very similar to valve-train noise. Part number is 5573017

Purge Solenoid, Purge Control Valve, Valve,


5. Could be a lifter tick - how's the oil - possibly try seafoam or valvemedic

6. Could be the timing chain tensioner

7. Could be a sloppy timing chain

8. Could be piston slap/wrist pin failure. Remember, piston slap would be noticeable also in neutral.

9. Pinging caused by low octane fuel, possibly try using 91 octane fuel for a few tanks.

10. Could possibly be an improperly torqued bolt on the flywheel/torque converter (noise from the trans side)

11. Might be a bad wheel bearing, I personally had this issue.

12. Possibly the knock Sensor going off or bad and it can be exacerbated by any of the above. . The knock sensor is ALWAYS listening. The ECM is constantly adjusting spark/cam timing to run as efficiently as it can, and it should pick up on audible knock/pinging and adjust it before you even hear it.

13. Maybe your AC compressor is going bad

14. Sometimes carbon on tops of pistons or valves can cause some knock. There are several "top engine cleaners" on the market to clean that off.

15. Fuel or brake lines vibrating
#PIC5853: Buzz Vibration Noise Floor Dash Area 1800-2200 Engine RPM - (Apr 22, 2013)
Subject:Buzz Vibration Noise Floor Dash Area 1800-2200 Engine RPM
Models:2013 Chevrolet Cruze
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern Some customers may comment of a buzz noise and or vibration in the dash or floor board areas, most noticeable at 1800-2200 engine rpm.
This condition may be caused by fuel line and/or brake line vibrations entering into the cabin area through the front of dash. Even though the fuel lines and/or brake lines are fully seated in their retainers, vibrations may still pass into the cabin area.
Recommendation/Instructions Use additional tape on the affected line(s) and/or add a small O-ring underneath the affected clip(s) to provide better isolation of the clip.
Further insure that the lines do not make any contact with the front of cowl that could further cause a noise or vibration.
Validate the repair by checking for noise or vibration at 1800-2200 engine RPM.

16. Missing air deflector fasteners
#PIC5874: Fluttering Rattling or Thumping Type Noise Above 45 MPH - (Jun 12, 2013)
Subject: Fluttering Rattling or Thumping Type Noise Above 45 MPH

Models: 2011 - 2014 Chevrolet Cruze
2012 -2014 Buick Verano
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern
A customer may indicate there is a flutter or thumping type noise from the side or underneath the vehicle at speeds 45 mph and above.

Recommendation/Instructions
Check the air deflectors mounted on either side under the vehicle. Make sure that all fasteners are in place and secure. Replace fasteners as needed.

If all fasteners are secure, it may be necessary to apply felt to the underbody above the the inside edge of each air deflector (between each fastener location) to eliminate this noise.

Different sound bytes to choose from:


Some of the associated error codes:


P0324: Potential causes for this code to set are:
Defective knock sensor/s
Internal engine malfunction
Ignition misfire/s
Contaminated or substandard fuel
Defective knock sensor control wiring and/or connectors
Bad PCM or a
PCM programing error
Read more at: P0324 Knock Control System Error

A new one is the midpipe bracket bolt coming loose


Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.
 

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Hey all I just started to notice this loud ticking noise coming from the top middle of my engine bay above engine block. I should have known something might go wrong when i had to go back to the dealer after my oil change becuase my air pressure sensors were showing that one of my tires had 25 PSI and the other 3 were at 34. Yes I checked that they put oil in the car. I always check everything out after I have any one else touch my car besides me. My engine has always been very quiet until now. I am not just being sensitive to the usual workings of the car. Something is causing this noise and I want to know what it is! Please listen to attached audio for more details. I have found a couple of other chevy owners who have posted similar sounds on youtube but there was no comments on their videos! if you have any ideas on wha this is let me know asap! I am bringing the car to the dealer in a couple days and would like to have some of my own ideas as to what the noise is to discuss with them so I dont get the usual bs back.


Thanks! AUDIO HERE!!!
Just had this same problem and didn't see a single person give the answer of what the true issue is. Try changing the canister purge valve, can get one online for $20 or from any auto parts store for about $40 and it's literally 3 clips and switch. I did this and car runs quieter, no more obnoxious ticking and doesn't idle as rough. Hopefully someone else that needs to see this finds it, saved me a lot of stress.
 
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