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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone,

I just changed the oil in my 2011 Cruze-LS and about 5 seconds after starting it a "LOW OIL PRESSURE, TURN OFF ENGINE" notification showed up. I immediately turned the car off, triple checked the oil level, that I used the right oil filter, and that the drain plug & oil filter cap were tight. I spoke to a mechanic and he told me how to reset the car's computer, I did and started the car again. It ran good for approx. 2 minutes then started idling rough (sounded like the timing was off) and tripped the low oil pressure notification again. I ran the codes on it and got code P0011-Intake (A) Camshaft Position Timing- Over - Advanced (Bank 1).

Has anybody else had this happen to them and have the solution to fix?

Thanks in advance for the help!

Ty
 

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You need to figure out why you have low oil pressure. The cams are controlled via oil pressure. What type of oil did you use?
 
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Well, something isn't right. The fact you're having cam trouble just shows that the low oil pressure isn't just a false indication. I could see that happening if you drained it so long the oil pump lost it's prime. But it should have come back after a few seconds. The oil filter should have a bypass valve that I'd think would prevent this from happening if something was wrong there. I'm out of ideas. If your car isn't sitting on a massive oil spot, there's no clear cause or fix. This may be a good time to throw in the towel and have it towed to a dealer. Better that then a ruined engine on your dime.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That's what I was thinking, just wanted to check and see if it was a simple fix before I brought it into the dealer. Thank you for the help and quick replies!
 

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There's one possibility: You did lose prime and it took a bit longer to get oil pressure than it should have. And as a result, the cam is off. Since it sounds like you didn't have any low oil indications for 2 minutes, you may be OK. I'm not sure how long it takes the car to code on a cam problem. I'm not sure what it takes to get it reset.
 

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If the cam code hadn't come up I'd be thinking the switch failed, but with the code, this is a true, no pressure situation.

This crankshaft driven gearotor pump is about impossible to lose prime since the housing holds some oil that cannot drain.

So, right now, I'm real suspicious of the oil filter......I'd be inclined to install the one removed and see what happens.....but keep your run time in the 10 to 15 second range.....you are depending on residual oil for lubrication and it won't last long.

If the pressure returns, look inside the new filter for something like a plastic wrapper jammed in there......the flow direction is from the inside to outside.

Keep in touch,
Rob
 

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I remember reading something about issues with the installation of the filter as it snaps into the cap, and how to look for any potential plastic from the top of the filter that may have broken off the old one upon removal.

The tabs on the filter where the filter snaps into the cap must be present, but clearly the article I was reading was concerned with these plastic tabs potentially breaking off getting loose, and going to the bottom of the oil filter housing.

Not sure how exactly you would break a tab? I typically remove the cap with the filter attached, then outside the car, unsnap the old filter from the cap, and reinstall the new one.

I guess you could actually try to get the cap off the housing before removal of the filter. In that case I guess I can see things maybe snapping.

Good Luck and stay in touch.
 

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With all the conversations on engine oil changes, don't recall this aspect of the filter and cap being covered before. I let the filter drain for awhile and sacrifice some Bounty paper towels. Cup the filter with cap into the towels, walk over to my plastic line trash can then pull it off. Use the rest of the towels to clean out the inside of the oil filter canister.

Ha, not a job for cheap paper towels, shed to easy. New O-ring on the filter, snap the new filter on, actually quite tight, coat the O'ring with clean oil, then screw it back in. Then torque it to 18 ft. lbs with a six point socket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I tried all of the suggestions on the oil filter, except putting the old one back in because I threw it away,with no luck getting rid of the low oil pressure. When the engine is started does it prime the oil pump, or do you have to manually prime it?

The oil filter i used was WIX 57674. Is there a different one recommended or has someone had problem with WIX before? I use WIX on all my vehicles and haven't had any problems with them before.

When I started the car I gave it a little gas to hold it just above idle at around 1800 rpm, when I held it at that rpm the car ran perfect and didn't trip the low oil pressure code. As soon as I let off and the engine went back to idle it ran rough, started shaking and tripped the low oil pressure code again.


I talked to my neighbor, who is a mechanic, and we "googled" the P0011 code and got the page below:

Code P0011 "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1)


This DTC code is a result of a mechanical fault of the VCT unit or related components, so there is no need for electrical diagnosis. Refer to vehicle specific repair manual to perform component tests for the VCT unit. Notes: Dealer techs have advanced tools and the ability to follow detailed troubleshooting steps, including the ability to test components using a scan tool.


We tried unplugging the solenoids, in the picture below, one at a time. After the back one was unplugged the low oil pressure message went away for approx. 30 sec, but then came back on. Unplugging the front solenoid didn't seem to have an effect on the idle.


Vehicle Auto part Engine Car

Once again thanks for the help.
 

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I talked to my neighbor, who is a mechanic, and we "googled" the P0011 code and got the page below:
I have the manual and looked it up. It's quite explicit in saying that low oil pressure will cause this problem. The cams are hydraulically operated using engine oil pressure. The solenoids open oil passages and the oil pressure does the work. If you have low oil pressure, the cams won't respond as the computer wants them to resulting in a code.

Bottom line, you're dealing with a low oil pressure situation. The code P0011 is just a distraction and will go away once you fix the low oil pressure. Bad cams will not result in low oil pressure.

At this point, all I can suggest is you try another oil filter. Maybe something is funky with this one and it's not letting oil though. Bad parts happen. Maybe go with AC Delco just to make sure you don't get another one from the same bad batch. (AC Delco and WIX are two brands that generally get "thumbs up" from the forum members.)
 

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Here's the link to the issues with improper oil filter installation and issues.

Could the Wix filter be a little shorter than the ACDelco one? Not closing the oil drain check valve?

http://www.acdelcotechconnect.com/pdf/TechConnect_SepOct_2013.pdf
Ohhhhh, good one! I think you've hit the jackpot. It's on page 7, under "Low Oil Pressure Light On at Idle". There's a drain check valve at the bottom of the oil filter housing. If anything has fallen into there, or the filter isn't installed right, the check valve won't close and will bleed off oil pressure. Time to pull the oil filter and have a good look with a flashlight.
 

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Ok after reading this I was thinking going back to the rough/low idle. Have you checked for any leaks in your valve cover diaphram or PVC hose? What caused the rough/low idle is my ? Im thinking the low idle might have caused a low oil pressure that caused the timing code.

Edit: just realized you have the 1.8. Still I would look into whats causing the low idle ie a vacuum leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I get off work in 3 hours and will get another oil filter and give it a try, it would be my luck to get a faulty filter. I'll update after I replace filters.
 

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Based on the angle of this housing on the 1.4L I haven't really looked that carefully inside. However, I do know that the procedure from All Data mentions to remove the filter before changing the oil.

I've done this, and with warm oil, you can hear oil draining from the top of the engine into the pan.

I also vaguely remember putting the oil and filter cap on once, when it seemed like the little filter support that the center of the filter goes over seemed long. Everything snugged down ok by hand. I'm wondering if the check valve is at the far bottom of that "pipe looking thing" that the filter goes over.

I've always been able to wet the new o-ring for the filter with a finger full of oil, and with my gloved hand turn the filter and cap assembly nearly all the way down.

Why they made the cap with a 24mm nut on it is beyond me. Everything 24mm is 1/2 inch, and makes it just a little too easy to break plastic.

If you have an adapter for 3/8 to 1/2 you'll have smaller tools for clearance, and less chance of crushing a filter.
 

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Sure don't want you to use a pair of channel locks in there. A 15/16" SAE socket is actually only 7 mils smaller than a 24 mm, that gives a tad tighter fit. 7 mils is 0.007". Use a 10" extension with a 1/2" to 1/4" adapter to use my inch ounce torque wrench set to 216 inch pounds. Ft.-lb torque wrench is 18" long, just a bit too large for a torque value this small.

And with plastic, the larger the hex, the better, less chance of rounding it. Canister type paper filter holders ain't new, sure act like they are, very predominate in 30's-50's cars, but were made out of metal. Four bucks for a huge spin on for my 454, 12 bucks locally for this tiny piece of paper, and told this piece of paper is environmentally friendly, price sure isn't.

Been using Delco filters from rockauto.com, just received a package of six. Kid on his Chrysler's T&C decided to do his own oil changes and asked me about filters. Here rockauto was sky high, his dealer sells OE for around four bucks a piece. Walmart also doesn't always have the lowest prices.

OP is the first one to post this problem, oil pressure was okay before he changed his oil and filter, not afterwards, so a case of reversing his steps. This always seems to happen with many other steps. Some a heck of a lot more complex than this one.

Use that same in-pound torque wrench on the drain plug, but reset it to 120 inch pounds. In flying an airplane, always have to go through that check list first, FAA requirement. May have to make a check list for changing oil.

Buy a five quart bottle of Mobil one, has markings on it to see what's in, usually quite accurate, kept some one quart bottles of Mobile One, fill that to the 16 ounce mark. Exactly what my small engines take. Pour the rest into the oil fill hole, but check it anyway, off the ramps, give it a few minutes to leak down, right at the full mark. Have my eyes glued to the oil light, should go off in about 3-4 seconds. This is up on the ramps, easier to get the vehicle down with the engine running.

Ha, open the garage door first, my one son-in-law didn't do that and ran into it, that was an expensive repair. Kids!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Good and bad news. Start with the good, I found out what was causing the low oil pressure. A 1/4"x1/4" piece of the clip off the old filter fell off and got wedged in between the small spring shown in the picture. I saw it before but it looked like a little rubber tab that was part of the system.

Auto part Vehicle Car

Bad news, I feel like an idiot it was something this simple. But now I, and potentially others that run across this issue, know how to trouble shoot and get the problem fixed.

Thanks again guys!
 
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