Chevrolet Cruze Forums banner

21 - 40 of 49 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
My 2017 Diesel MT had a slave cylinder just go out last week. I stopped at a stop light after getting off the highway, and it wouldn't shift into any gears. The pedal kept getting stuck to the floor, and at first it seemed like the spring was the culprit. I had it towed to the dealer, and after the diagnostic they insisted it was the clutch plate and flywheel. After reading about the slave cylinder issues on this forum, I asked how that determination was made if they didn't take apart the transmission. Low and behold it was the slave cylinder, and the work is covered under the powertrain warranty. There is a TSB #PIP5558C that talks about issues with the clutch pedal sticking to the floor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
I have the same problem with my 2016 Chevy Cruze LS (Manual Transmission). Clutch completely failed on my commute home last night and I had to be towed. The clutch felt funny in the morning but still worked then wouldn't engage at all the same day. Ball park estimate is about $1,500 to replace and I'm out of the warranty.

Anyone hearing about a possible recall for this problem?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
My car failed this morning. The clutch got stuck and I couldn't shift gears. I have a 2016 with 47k miles. I have an extended warranty but when I called the dealer they said the clutch isn't covered. Is this a common problem? I don't have e $1400 laying around with rent due next week.
 

·
Administrator, Resident Tater Salad
Joined
·
16,685 Posts
My car failed this morning. The clutch got stuck and I couldn't shift gears. I have a 2016 with 47k miles. I have an extended warranty but when I called the dealer they said the clutch isn't covered. Is this a common problem? I don't have e $1400 laying around with rent due next week.
The slave cylinder should be covered as you are still under powertrain warranty. The clutch friction material is considered a "wear item", so they are right - the clutch disc itself is not covered. However, I don't think they understand what happened and if you take the car in and the slave cylinder is determined to be at fault, they will cover it and labor to remove/repair.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
I have the same problem with my 2016 Chevy Cruze LS (Manual Transmission). Clutch completely failed on my commute home last night and I had to be towed. The clutch felt funny in the morning but still worked then wouldn't engage at all the same day. Ball park estimate is about $1,500 to replace and I'm out of the warranty.

Anyone hearing about a possible recall for this problem?
I hope they do a recall. My car was just towed this morning after the clutch got stuck. Luckily I hadn't made it to the highway yet or it could have been a serious accident add I couldn't move or shift. I have an extended warranty which they say the clutch is not covered, however the fact these **** parts come from Europe and some are defective and don't work with American parts I am hoping this is the issue. I had a piston failure a couple months back. Dealer did replace everything at their cost on that issue. This needs to be addressed by GM.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
I have the same problem with my Cruze, I was quoted $1100 from local mechanic, seems the transmission needs to be pulled to get to the slave cylinder. Great design there! I'm also out of my extended 100K warranty by 1300 miles! YAY!
I have the extended warranty, clutch is listed as an exclusion which I didn't know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I have a 2018 Cruze that has been in and out of dealership now for a month and a half with the clutch pedal going all the way to the floor. They did replace the master slave cylinder. Now it still tlhas the problem all they do is get the air out. But to be back at the dealership not even a day after they do that. Is anyone else having this problem? Or are they missing something that is causing all the air in the hydraulic system of the clutch pedal? Please help
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,122 Posts
If your clutch refuses to engage, you're either coasting to a stop or braking to a quicker stop.
Harry Chapin died that way on a busy freeway. His clutch didn't fail, his engine did, but as he slowed, people passing him on the right prevented him from pulling over, then a semi ran over him.

If your clutch refuses to disengage, you need to learn how to shift without it.
This only works while the car is moving. (but you may be able to shift into 1st with the car stopped, and use the starter to get rolling)

To shift into neutral, give it just enough throttle for the engine's no-load RPM to match the current driving RPM and tug the lever out of gear.

To shift into gear is trickier, you need to match RPM with the RPM needed to go the present speed in the gear you wish to engage. Shift gently and let the syncros tell you when the speeds match up, When I was young, I could drive my 1977 Saab without touching the clutch pedal.

Many truckers drive this way, they call it "floating" the gears, and they have to match RPMs perfectly to do it without grinding the gears because the transmissions aren't synchronized. It's a bit harder when newer cars have computers to "help" determine the throttle plate position and you're doing something that requires precise throttle control.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I have the extended warranty, clutch is listed as an exclusion which I didn't know.
Good luck cause mine has been at dealership
If your clutch refuses to engage, you're either coasting to a stop or braking to a quicker stop.
Harry Chapin died that way on a busy freeway. His clutch didn't fail, his engine did, but as he slowed, people passing him on the right prevented him from pulling over, then a semi ran over him.

If your clutch refuses to disengage, you need to learn how to shift without it.
This only works while the car is moving. (but you may be able to shift into 1st with the car stopped, and use the starter to get rolling)

To shift into neutral, give it just enough throttle for the engine's no-load RPM to match the current driving RPM and tug the lever out of gear.

To shift into gear is trickier, you need to match RPM with the RPM needed to go the present speed in the gear you wish to engage. Shift gently and let the syncros tell you when the speeds match up, When I was young, I could drive my 1977 Saab without touching the clutch pedal.

Many truckers drive this way, they call it "floating" the gears, and they have to match RPMs perfectly to do it without grinding the gears because the transmissions aren't synchronized. It's a bit harder when newer cars have computers to "help" determine the throttle plate position and you're doing something that requires precise throttle control.
For a car that cost over 28000 and is a 2018 I should not have to. If I wanted to that I would own a semi truck. This is BS on GM side.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Mine was in three times for issues with the clutch. They replaced the master cylinder, then some fittings, and finally the slave cylinder. Fingers crossed that the slave cylinder was the root cause. Make sure that they replaced the slave cylinder, not just the master cylinder. All of that work should be covered under warranty, as it is not the clutch plate. Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
I got mine cover under warranty, I paid for the clutch plates to be replaced while they were doing the cylinder since they were already in the transmission. I got the labor covered by warranty and only paid for the clutch plate parts. I live in a city so it didn’t hurt to replace them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I wish I had read this before trying to drive on the highway to family the night before Thanksgiving. My 2017 MT Diesel had to be towed to the AAA recommended car shop, and there is a long weekend before anything can happen. Sounds like a slave cylinder issue, and a call to the dealer is in order!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
I finally got my 2017 MT Diesel back from the dealer. It took them 3 months, because of the UAW strike. They replaced the slave cylinder and throughout bearing under warranty. I figured I would pay the $500 to have them replace the clutch plate, and flywheel while they had the transmission disassembled.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Already posted in the Gen2 Powertrain forum but for the sake of visibility add me to the list. Same scenario as everyone else pretty much, stopped at a traffic light, couldn't shift into any gear, clutch pedal was stuck at the bottom. Manually pulled the pedal back up and was able to get going. Was fine for about 2 miles then happened again. Had it towed to the dealership and they will try to fit in, but are very backed up. It's a 2017 with 25k miles on it. The irony is that just yesterday morning I was thinking about buying it when it came off lease while I was driving into work. I have about 10 months left on the lease.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
I'd want photographic proof, or to see the clutch disc myself, before authorizing any work.
I second this. Do not under any circumstances let the dealership disguise a part failure as a part that failed under “wear and tear” caused by you.

Saying the clutch is bad is a really easy way to blame your driving style and to have a normally in warrantee repair, go out of warranty.

My dealership tried to pull this and I’m glad I knew to make them show me failed parts. Especially with the big strike and the cost cutting GM is going through, cover your @$$ as best as you can


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Unless they are saying that they need to replace parts of the clutch mechanism under warranty, your dealer is full of it. They may be trying to avoid the apparently difficult slave cylinder replacement. Don't let them get away with it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Don’t trust your dealership to do anything under warrantee.

I have a 2018 diesel. At 15,000 miles it started misfiring and bucking really bad and the dealer felt it. They felt it every time I brought it in but couldn’t figure it out.

Magically when I brought it in with 80 miles left on my warrantee, they “couldn’t feel it anymore”.

What incentive does a dealership have to replace something under warranty? Heck try getting a loaner car out of them.


I love my car but never again will I buy another GM product. End rant.

But seriously get photo proof or ask to see the clutch. If they said they got rid of it before you agreed to a repair, decline the repair and you’ll see how quickly they “find” your clutch laying around the shop to put back in


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Wish I saw these replies sooner, I already okay'd the repair. They did agree to give me 10% of the total repair bill (sarastic Wooo!) As for a loaner, they don't have any right now, but I'm "on the list." At this point I just want the lease to be over and never drive a GM vehicle again.

Appreciate the input. I guess I could still ask to see the clutch but I'm guessing it's gone.
 
21 - 40 of 49 Posts
Top