Absolutely. If you leave the car with them BEFORE the warranty expires, with a known problem diagnosed, and with an open work order in the computer, what possible explanation would they have for not honoring this as a warranty repair?
Absolutely. If you leave the car with them BEFORE the warranty expires, with a known problem diagnosed, and with an open work order in the computer, what possible explanation would they have for not honoring this as a warranty repair?Interesting idea. GM has told me that it will be covered under warranty whenever the parts arrive. Do you still think I should do that?
Mine broke a second time after just 20 months and 22,000 miles.I'm just hoping everything holds up.
Although I know this may be a late reply, I had the same issue. Sometimes I could pump it after the car was off and it would work instead for me to drive the car to the dealership. I would have to turn the car off put it in first gear started unload the car to lunch forward and float. Gears without grinding coming to a stop man. I would have to turn the car off and repeat the process ended up being a slave cylinder first day blended. It worked for about 5 miles and then I came back the slave cylinder unfortunately as you probably know it was located inside the bell housing, which was about $4000 for me to get replaced.Recently, my gen 2 cruze’s clutch has been sticking to the floor. Sometimes it work. Perfectly, sometimes there’s absolutely 0 pressure and I can’t even drive my car, and sometimes it can be pushed in and will retract slowly or not at all. This just started happening after getting like a foot of snow for several days. Has anyone else had transmission, clutch, or gearbox problems in their manual trans cruzes?
To delay clutch 'slave cylinder' plugging due to contamination from upstream plastic/rubber decay, my regular "reverse flush" of the 'clutch side DOT 4 (still same can as the brakes) fluid has, to date, been a life saver to me IMHO 😬.
The reverse flush procedure uses, for the most part the same tool setup needed for the pressure testing / leak detection procedures, so there is no need to invest too much on dedicated hardware. Below the relevant TSI. View attachment 302265 View attachment 302266
Thanks a lot. I'll keep this and do it if the clutch gets worse. Right now its just a little slow returning the pedal and i am going to see how it does today.To delay clutch 'slave cylinder' plugging due to contamination from upstream plastic/rubber decay, my regular "reverse flush" of the 'clutch side DOT 4 (still same can as the brakes) fluid has, to date, been a life saver to me IMHO 😬.
The reverse flush procedure uses, for the most part the same tool setup needed for the pressure testing / leak detection procedures, so there is no need to invest too much on dedicated hardware. Below the relevant TSI. View attachment 302265 View attachment 302266
My warranty btw was only 12 monthsThanks!!! Good to know!
I have a 17 Lt 1.4 manual 6-speed and my clutch pedal started acting different. So I ordered a clutch kit. It came with new clutch and pressure plate. Also a slave cylinder w/ new line that goes out of the bell housing to the bleeder valve, plus new bleeder and then from there to the firewall. I bought it from gm dealer and it was under 300 bucks. Fixed the problem. Now the car works better than it did when I first drove it.I have the same problem ... how did you fix it ... and how much money did you spend?... thanks...