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Hey, just a quick FYI for anyone needing this information, I figure someone will need this eventually.

I have a 2011 ECO that had no compression in #3 cylinder (I have not torn down this engine yet, so I don't know the exact failure, but I suspect a piston problem. This car is no longer under warranty, so I had to find an engine. After looking all over the internet for an answer as to whether I could swap in a LUV into this car, I just went ahead and tried it. I can report that my 2011 ECO now has a 2014 LUV engine in it, all I did was swap the intake and exhaust manifolds over from the LUJ. There are no issues with cam timing or anything else.

The reason I wanted to try a LUV engine was that I found one with 20K on it for super cheap. It was half the price of any LUJ, and the LUJs all had high mileage. Plus I didn't want to have another piston issue. Car runs like a champ. Zero issues.

Hopefully this information will help someone. There are a ton more LUVs on the road than LUJs, so it may be a better option for those with engine issues.
 

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Hi,
I'm also looking at swapping a 2014 LUV into my 2012 LUJ My 2012 LUJ has low compression(70psi) at cyl. 3. Cylinder leak down test indicated that I'm pressurizing the oil fill housing possibly due to air leaking past the piston rings.
Were both of your engines originally mated to automatics or manuals? I have a manual cruze and the 2014 LUV is out of an automatic vehicle. Maybe it doesn't matter but I'm curious about your experience. Please provide more info.
 

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st6787-

Did you do this engine pull with a fully equipped lift, or at home? Out the top, or did you drop the engine subframe? Engine and transmission pulled as one unit?

I think your one of the first to tackle this, and while everyone should consult a shop manual for this type of repair, they have you pulling the front bumper, to remove the turbo charge pipes. Maybe it makes sense to remove the bumper and the radiator, intercooler package just to prevent it from being damaged.

At that point I think you would be able to unbolt the front radiator support, and maybe pull the engine forward using an engine lift? Maybe some of those supports are tack welded. The manual only shows the bolts.

This looks like a small engine that should be easy to remove, but you never know. Many engines are approaching 5 years old, I suspect there's going to be a lot of potential engine repairs to this small 1.4L given it;s history with running hot and coolant issues.

Thanks for the thoughts-

Carbon02
 

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Did you ever receive an answer to this question? I have a 2012 Eco 1.4 with a manual, I found a 2014 from an automatic and am wondering if it will work. Thanks in advance- Jon
 

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I am in the process of swapping my 2011 LUJ for a LUV. Low compression on the cylinder closes to the trans. The block and heads have different part numbers but otherwise everything seems identical.
Maybe I will start a thread on the swap.
 

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I am in the process of swapping my 2011 LUJ for a LUV. Low compression on the cylinder closes to the trans. The block and heads have different part numbers but otherwise everything seems identical.
Maybe I will start a thread on the swap.
Please do!
 

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Mechanically the engines are the same. Both also have E78 ECUs. Be careful when swapping ECUs and sensors 2011 to 2012 changed and changed again in 2013 and later. Mainly the MAF as temperature and humidity got added after 2013. Also the ECU in the 2011 did not have Flex fuel mapping but 2012 and after had mappings hence part of the reasons for the LUJ to LUV name change. GM just never put the flex fuel sensor in the wiring harness to allow the 2012 and later to use e85 off the factory floor. I have run a 2011 on my boat and now have a 2014 motor. So past the engine not sure if wiring changed in the BCM or TCM but that is also things that need to be checked.
 

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Mechanically the engines are the same. Both also have E78 ECUs. Be careful when swapping ECUs and sensors 2011 to 2012 changed and changed again in 2013 and later. Mainly the MAF as temperature and humidity got added after 2013. Also the ECU in the 2011 did not have Flex fuel mapping but 2012 and after had mappings hence part of the reasons for the LUJ to LUV name change. GM just never put the flex fuel sensor in the wiring harness to allow the 2012 and later to use e85 off the factory floor. I have run a 2011 on my boat and now have a 2014 motor. So past the engine not sure if wiring changed in the BCM or TCM but that is also things that need to be checked.
I thought the 2011 had a different ECU and that is why it cannot be converted to E85.
 

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Same E78 ECU, different software w/o Flex Fuel mappings built in. You can take a 2011 ECU to GM and get the 2014 software installed but I am not sure how pin mappings will jive. I only use the engine not the Trans or BCM modules for the boat so past the primary engine sensors and FPCM I dont know. I know my 2011 books match the latest 2014 trax wiring diagrams I recieved from a friend. Major differences of course pin increase ( 4 ('11) to 6 ('12) to 8 ('13+)) on the MAF for humidity/Baro, etc.
 

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Also I noticed a small difference. The LUJ had the crank pulley bolted on with allen bolts and the LUV just has the one crank bolt so I'm guessing it is pressed on.
 

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You would have to get wiring details for both the 2011 and 2012 to make sure everything maps ok... also a MAF sensor swap would be a must since baro was separate in the 2011. I haven't dealt with them mechanically as much as I have electrically as I get my local shop to handle the mounting of the shafts and drive units we use on my boat. Electronics are where I play, and they themselves can be a pain in the ass when Codes pop up from time to time.
 

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Another difference I noticed is the LUV I got only had pulleys for a 5 rib belt. I swapped over the crank and water pump pulley from my LUJ so I could use my 6 rib belt. The water pump on the LUJ was recently replaced under recall and has the same part number as the one that is on the LUV. The pulley must not be part of the new assembly or they have 2 different kits available when replacing.
 

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Another difference I noticed is the LUV I got only had pulleys for a 5 rib belt. I swapped over the crank and water pump pulley from my LUJ so I could use my 6 rib belt. The water pump on the LUJ was recently replaced under recall and has the same part number as the one that is on the LUV. The pulley must not be part of the new assembly or they have 2 different kits available when replacing.
They make mention of the 5 grove swap where applicable!

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Carbon02, I'm not sure if you ever received an answer to how to do the Engine swap on the Cruze. I'm in the middle of my second engine swap in 2 different cars (both engines had bad compression when I bought them). The first one that I did was a 2013 Eco with Manual trans and I pulled the engine out the top with a typical engine hoist. It was way easier than dropping the subframe and way faster....disconnect the wire harness, strip off the A/C compressor and Alternator. There was just enough room to slide the engine away from the Trans and clear the complete clutch assembly before having to lift it up and out. The one I'm doing now is an 2011 LT with Auto trans....way more room out the top, just leave the torque converter in the Trans.
 

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Carbon02, I'm not sure if you ever received an answer to how to do the Engine swap on the Cruze. I'm in the middle of my second engine swap in 2 different cars (both engines had bad compression when I bought them). The first one that I did was a 2013 Eco with Manual trans and I pulled the engine out the top with a typical engine hoist. It was way easier than dropping the subframe and way faster....disconnect the wire harness, strip off the A/C compressor and Alternator. There was just enough room to slide the engine away from the Trans and clear the complete clutch assembly before having to lift it up and out. The one I'm doing now is an 2011 LT with Auto trans....way more room out the top, just leave the torque converter in the Trans.
Don' forget to label everything. Alot of the connectors will fit in multiple places. An example would be the IAT on the intake charge pipe and the first O2 sensor. Also the crank position sensor and the knock sensor. There were more but I don't remember exactly. Oh, and the starter should also be removed. I also took some pictures as I went just in case.
I removed the turbo on mine before pulling to allow easier access to the compressor but it could have stayed. I had to swap it either way.
 

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Carbon02, I'm not sure if you ever received an answer to how to do the Engine swap on the Cruze. I'm in the middle of my second engine swap in 2 different cars (both engines had bad compression when I bought them). The first one that I did was a 2013 Eco with Manual trans and I pulled the engine out the top with a typical engine hoist. It was way easier than dropping the subframe and way faster....disconnect the wire harness, strip off the A/C compressor and Alternator. There was just enough room to slide the engine away from the Trans and clear the complete clutch assembly before having to lift it up and out. The one I'm doing now is an 2011 LT with Auto trans....way more room out the top, just leave the torque converter in the Trans.
PhilHawk-

I guess I was wondering on the Automatics, is there enough room out the top with the trans connected to the engine? It looks like there would be if the axles were removed from the transmission prior to lifting.

That's what I thought was interesting about the Cruze layout. I would think disconnecting the trans in the car would be harder than pulling it as an assembly working outside the car, reassemble the engine trans combination and reinstall. Maybe it's not that bad getting to all the housing bolts and supporting the 6T45 in the car.
 
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