Is there a diagram that can help troubleshooting a MAF sensor?
MAF Sensor
My Chevy Cruze 2014, has been having an engine light, after taking it to AutoZone, I got the following error codes : P1101, P0236, P227. AutoZone has advised replacing the MAF sensor. I have been wondering if the MAF is really faulty or it something else. After installing a used sensor that was taken from the junkyard (for testing purposes), the cooling fan started to run at a very high speed. I have then reinstalled the actual sensor, the fan does not run like before. Now I am thinking whether the MAF is faulty or not. Any thought? before purchasing a new MAF sensor at AutoZone.
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@jblackburn, one of my AC line set had been taken out after the accident could this be the cause? I am planning to reinstall it, any advice? picture attached. Feel free to forward videos of AC line set installation.MAF contains an intake air temp sensor. When unplugged with battery hooked up it defaults to screamy fan mode as a failsafe. Should go away next restart.
MAF codes are rarely sensors on these cars. I'd suggest looking for a vacuum or air leak instead.
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it is a Chevy Cruze 2014 LT turbo.
I have noticed that the heater horse that comes from the anti-freeze reservoir is leaking, I purchased the replacement horse at Autozone, but for some raison it look different from the original horse I had on the car, I will go find an other horse and see if it fix the issue. I had a spill of antifreeze, is there anything I should be concerned about the spill?
@jblackburn you are absolutely right. One question concerning the new O-ring, does it replace the U shape clip? image attached.
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Do you have a picture of the new cable already installed ?
I have tested the car again, the smoke is longer coming out. I guess it was nothing to worry about.
@jblackburn yes, there is no leak for now I can definitely tell the difference in the way the car runs. But I still have the engine light to worry about, that will be my next project. thank you so much for your insights.Yeah, oily things just take a little while to burn off.
Hope that's the end of your leaks - for now!
I have P0236, P1101 and P2227 , the Auto zone report says : "Inspect for correct air filter and air box is securely latch properly". The car had been in an accident, which had made the air box to be loose, I will have to find ways to securely latched it and see if there is any change. Any advice?Which code is still present?
I have opened the air box and vacuumed the filter and box interior, I have also cleaned the MAF sensor. The P1101 code is gone. I am left with P0236 and P227, next I will be looking at the turbo/boost hoses. Do I have to drain the antifreeze before starting the project? I will be glad when these codes are gone. Can the car pass inspection with these codes.
I have an issue with the outlet tube clip, it seems to be loose, I do not have enough room to do it without removing the bumper . Is there any video that show how to tie it uphe clip?If in fact the airbox is damaged, try locating one at an LKQ or PickNPull type yard for a reasonable amount to replace it. Otherwise your left with buying a CAI. Do not get an SRI as those do not do you any favors.
Potential causes for P0236 to set are:
Vacuum supply
Pinched, collapsed or broken vacuum lines
Faulty control solenoid
Faulty PCM
Read more at: P0236 Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Range Performance
Chevy Cruze P1101 Causes
Engine Wiring– A good place to start is to do an inspection of the area around where the mass airflow sensor plugs into the intake. Make sure that the wiring doesn’t look broken or disconnected. You’d be surprised, in the winter months a rodent can cause a lot of damage to a an engine in one night.
Air Filter– Pull your air filter and see if something has gotten in there. If it has, remove the debris. Or if the filter looks very dirty go ahead and replace it. If enough air is not getting into the engine the mass airflow sensor is not going to get a proper reading, and P1101 will likely be thrown.
If neither the engine wiring or the air filter seems to be a problem, then it’s going to be time to pull the mass airflow sensor and see if it is dirty. A word of caution, these sensors can be incredibly sensitive to the oil’s on skin so make sure to use caution and not touch the sensor element itself.
Leaking Intake– If the intake seal on the Chevy Cruze has been damaged, there’ll be a vacuum leak. A vacuum leak means that air will be getting in to the intake not through the throttle. This is going to dramatically alter the reading at the mass airflow sensor gets and will trigger P1101.
A mechanic would be able to do something called a smoke test, which would let them visually see where the intake is leaking from.
If you would like to try to find the vacuum leak yourself go ahead and perform a visual inspection and make sure that you don’t have a disconnected or broken vacuum hose. If it looks ok, than carb and choke cleaner can help. Here’s a good video on vacuum leak diagnosis.
MAF Sensor May be Bad– at this point the only cost that we should have incurred is the cost of a can of carb and choke cleaner. If everything checked out, and there were no intake leeks, than it’s time to evaluate whether the MAF sensor is bad.
Here’s another YouTube video. This one goes over how to test a MAF sensor with a multi-meter. It’s relatively easy to do and multi meters are cheap.
Read more at: Chevy Cruze P1101 and P0171 Trouble Codes | Drivetrain Resource
Causes for this P2227 code may include:
Defective or damaged BAP (Barometric Air pressure) sensor
Defective or damaged electrical connector
Wiring issue (e.g. open, short, corrosion)
Electrical short (internal or mechanical)
Loose electrical connection
Heat damage
Mechanical malfunction causing altered BAP readings
ECM (Engine Control Module) issue
Read more at: P2227 Barometric Pressure Sensor A Range/Performance
I am not sure what I am looking at here. I am not near enough to the car to look.
After I checked the part number, I found out that my mechanic used an 2011-2012 intercooler horse, for some raison it couldn't fit. I purchased a new intercooler ( and sensor) from the dealer and replaced. I will find out tomorrow if my engine light has gone.Looks like an intercooler connection.
The clip is loose or the entire hose? If it's the entire hose, bumper removal isn't difficult to get it back on there and snug it up.
All my code have gone, the new intercooler fixed the issue, the car has also passed emission test. Thank you so much for all your insights.After I checked the part number, I found out that my mechanic used an 2011-2012 intercooler horse, for some raison it couldn't fit. I purchased a new intercooler ( and sensor) from the dealer and replaced. I will find out tomorrow if my engine light has gone.
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