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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was just wonder on a 2012 Chevy Cruz 2012 LUJ turbo engine oil clearance spec's. on the;
Main crank bearings______________________
Connecting rod bearing oil clearance _______________________________

They are new standard bearings and crankshaft ( not under over sized;

Crankshaft Bearing Clearance; mechanical spec's says 0.0003 in - 0.0012 in.

Connecting rod Bearing Clearance; 0.0005 in - 0.0024 in

Am i reading this correctly the main bearings is only 0.0012 in max. oil clearance seems kinda tight and the connecting rod 1/2 thousand to 0.0024 in (2.4 thousand)

Can some one verify this and also tell me what the maximum allowed clearance is on a existing crank with 28k on it.
I have a rear main leaking that has a pitted shaft i need to change the crank.
Also if some one has the Gm manual section on crank replacement and specification i would appreciate it.
Thank You in Advance.
 

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At that point I would just replace the engine with a new one. Replacing the crank and bearings is not worth it with the cost of a replacement low miles engine
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
no i haven't checked them yet i was going to plastic gauge them just for a reference.
but if i am going to replace the crank it is worth it for me to change the bearings, it will only cost another 80 dollars for the crank and rod bearings.
what are your suggestion?
Also for the reply to get a used engine, i don't like what i am finding out there locally and on line.
You can't trust what you get and at least i know what i have and i am willing to put in the work.
so far i have gaskets and crank plus bearings GM parts right at $300.00
 

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no i haven't checked them yet i was going to plastic gauge them just for a reference.
but if i am going to replace the crank it is worth it for me to change the bearings, it will only cost another 80 dollars for the crank and rod bearings.
what are your suggestion?
Also for the reply to get a used engine, i don't like what i am finding out there locally and on line.
You can't trust what you get and at least i know what i have and i am willing to put in the work.
so far i have gaskets and crank plus bearings GM parts right at $300.00

most of the engines are only 600 on the low side with a pretty good warranty. for me to rebuild this engine i would have to use forged parts.


Also how or what caused a 28k mile failure? And also why not send it back to the dealer since your still under PW
 

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Unless your Cruze has a salvaged title, take it to the dealer and let them take the cost to replace the crank/engine. Otherwise I would suggest new bearings while you're in there. They are too cheap to regret not doing them later. You won't need over/undersized bearings if you get a new crank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
YES GENTLEMAN I WOULD OF TOOK IT TO THE DEALER BUT IT HAS A SALVAGE TITLE .
The crankshaft are junk and started to rust and pit, also my harmonic balancer is rusted and the seal surface is also bad i found yesterday.
The dealers have found this before a number of times in the north and south which i live now.
I am going to go future with GM when i get time.
There are special programs out there.
Fortunately the cranks, water pumps CV seal etcccccc..... are garbage.
 

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Sounds like a flood car, or a car that sat for a very long time. This is why I don't even consider salvage/rebuilt vehicles. You pay the price difference in headaches down the road.
 

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Sounds like a flood car, or a car that sat for a very long time. This is why I don't even consider salvage/rebuilt vehicles. You pay the price difference in headaches down the road.

Yea your right dealing with fresh or salt water flood cars suck. Also of the crank is that bad I would replace the block and turbo also
 

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Sad to see these cars only a few years old and needing this kind of work. Things happen. And salvage title cars are a pain. Even worse for a flood car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
i understand what you guys are say, however whether a car sits for a time is specified at what time period.
I have had cars in the north sit 6 to seven months every winter for 8 to 9 years and never had a problem.
The problem is the single whip seals on these cranks and the outer seal surface doesn't come incontact with the seal surface to keep dirt road salt etc.. away. On top of these forged steel cranks are made of recycled steel and have a large counts of impurities which don't help either.
Their has been alot of seal failures according to two big dealers in the north and one in the south. Just not a recall yet due to there is no safety hazard that can be proven.
modifying the lower engine shroud underneath the engine for engine fire due to sloppy oil changes are a crack of Chit.

this was another damage control for 30 engine fires that where reported. And guess who did the majority of the oil changes , which where dealers and are you telling me that the dealer tech don't watch out for oil spills.
Read all the post not only here but Google it and there is systemic problem with failing seals on these car period.
These cars are expose to alot of road salt in the north especially in new york and these one whipper seals let in alot of road dirt which tears up the seals and harmonic balancer.
I just opened up a new front crank seal for the harmonic balancer and the spring was missing on a brand new seal, guess where it was from, lovely Mexico.
i have vented enough

p.s. i also have been driving it for almost 2 years and 20k miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Unless your Cruze has a salvaged title, take it to the dealer and let them take the cost to replace the crank/engine. Otherwise I would suggest new bearings while you're in there. They are too cheap to regret not doing them later. You won't need over/undersized bearings if you get a new crank.
AGREED ALREADY HAVE THEM AND i am plastic gauge the old ones for reference.
The rods are .015 which is in the middle of the spec's and don't look worn at all.
Now i still have to check the axial and main bearings i will let you know.
Thank you for asking you are the only positive voice here so far.
I do like the car and i am frustrated in the direction of GM and the tech's at the Dealers are getting Screwed on shop warranty time. I have never seen it this bad in 40 years.
 

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"I just opened up a new front crank seal for the harmonic balancer and the spring was missing on a brand new seal, guess where it was from, lovely Mexico." Dumb question from an outsider. The sticker on my 2011 said the engine was from austria and the transmission was from Mexico. Did they start getting the engines from Mexico?
 

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"I just opened up a new front crank seal for the harmonic balancer and the spring was missing on a brand new seal, guess where it was from, lovely Mexico." Dumb question from an outsider. The sticker on my 2011 said the engine was from austria and the transmission was from Mexico. Did they start getting the engines from Mexico?
Matters on the year older 1.4s were produced overseas then moved to the usa from my understanding and all 6t40/45/30 were produced in Mexico and other places but again it all comes down to year. And plus gaskets and what not have been made in Mexico since the mid 90s for GM
 

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AGREED ALREADY HAVE THEM AND i am plastic gauge the old ones for reference.
The rods are .015 which is in the middle of the spec's and don't look worn at all.
Now i still have to check the axial and main bearings i will let you know.
Thank you for asking you are the only positive voice here so far.
I do like the car and i am frustrated in the direction of GM and the tech's at the Dealers are getting Screwed on shop warranty time. I have never seen it this bad in 40 years.

You make it seem like it's a major issue yours is the first case I've seen or heard of having a major crank issue and I've been following the a14 for some years now. The engine internally in very built very well for its size and cost. I feel your issue is more bad care and from the owners before you or flood damage can't put the blame on GM/Opel when you deal with rebuilding cars these are just everyday things I deal with when I take on a bad title rebuild sometimes your lucky sometimes your not. Give it a few months after your engine rebuild you'll have more issues if it's a 11/12 year car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
You make it seem like it's a major issue yours is the first case I've seen or heard of having a major crank issue and I've been following the a14 for some years now. The engine internally in very built very well for its size and cost. I feel your issue is more bad care and from the owners before you or flood damage can't put the blame on GM/Opel when you deal with rebuilding cars these are just everyday things I deal with when I take on a bad title rebuild sometimes your lucky sometimes your not. Give it a few months after your engine rebuild you'll have more issues if it's a 11/12 year car.
don't get me wrong i like the car and i also think the engine and trannys are built well for the most part, i just have bad luck i guess.
Th seals don't protect the crank or harmonic balance especially where the engine sits in the north all the salt and snow ends up there.
anyway got it back together today and the tolerances held were in the tenths.
Why did you say 11/12 will have more problems in the future what else can i expect?
 

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don't get me wrong i like the car and i also think the engine and trannys are built well for the most part, i just have bad luck i guess.
Th seals don't protect the crank or harmonic balance especially where the engine sits in the north all the salt and snow ends up there.
anyway got it back together today and the tolerances held were in the tenths.
Why did you say 11/12 will have more problems in the future what else can i expect?
Since you are in the north look into the verano bottom shield install that could help with the salt


2011 and early 12 models have issues that were taken care of in late 12 wave plates in the trans turbo failures and other things.
 

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Crankshaft and Bearing Installation
Special Tools
  • EN-235-6 Installer
  • EN-470–B Angular Torque Wrench
  • EN-658-1 Installer


  • Install a NEW crankshaft position sensor reluctor ring (1) and the 3 bolts (2).
  • Tighten the 3 bolts (2) to 10 Y (89 lb in).
  • Lubricate crankshaft, crankshaft bearings and crankshaft bearing cap tie plate with engine oil.
  • Install the 4 upper crankshaft bearings (2) and the crankshaft thrust bearing (3).
  • Install the crankshaft (1).

    Note: The thickness of the sealing bead should be 2 mm (0.0787 in).
  • Apply sealing compound (1) to the outer rim of the groove on the crankshaft bearing cap tie plate.

    Note: The complete installation procedure should not take longer than 10 minutes.
  • Install the 4 lower crankshaft bearings (3) and the lower crankshaft thrust bearing (4).
  • Install the crankshaft bearing cap tie plate (2). Note: Do not reuse the old bolts.
  • Install the 10 NEW inner crankshaft bearing cap tie plate bolts (1).
  • Tighten the 10 inner crankshaft bearing cap tie plate bolts in the sequence shown and to the following specifications:
    • Tighten the inner crankshaft bearing cap tie plate bolts to 25 Y (18 lb ft).
    • Tighten the inner crankshaft bearing cap tie plate bolts an additional 60 degrees, using the EN-470–B wrench.
    • Tighten the inner crankshaft bearing cap tie plate bolts an additional 15 degrees, using the EN-470–B wrench.


    Note: Do not reuse the old bolts.
  • Install the 12 NEW outer crankshaft bearing cap tie plate bolts (1) and tighten to the following specification:
    • Tighten the outer crankshaft bearing cap tie plate bolts to 10 Y (89 lb in).
    • Tighten the outer crankshaft bearing cap tie plate bolts an additional 60 degrees, using the EN-470–B wrench.
    • Tighten the outer crankshaft bearing cap tie plate bolts an additional 15 degrees, using the EN-470–B wrench.

  • Install the crankshaft position sensor (1) and a NEW crankshaft position sensor seal ring (2).
  • Install the crankshaft position sensor bolt (3) and tighten to 8 Y (71 lb in).

    Note: Lubricate the crankshaft rear oil seal.
  • Install the crankshaft rear oil seal (1) with EN-235-6 installer (2).
  • Use EN-658-1 installer (1) to strike the crankshaft rear oil seal.
 

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Crankshaft and Bearing Removal



  • Remove the crankshaft position sensor bolt (3).
  • Remove the crankshaft position sensor (1) and the crankshaft position sensor seal ring (2).

  • Remove and DISCARD the 12 outer crankshaft bearing cap tie plate bolts (1).

  • Loosen the 10 inner crankshaft bearing cap tie plate bolts in a sequence as shown.

  • Remove and DISCARD the 10 crankshaft bearing cap tie plate bolts (1) Remove the crankshaft bearing cap tie plate (2).
  • Remove the 4 lower crankshaft bearings (3) an the lower crankshaft thrust bearing (4).
  • Remove the crankshaft rear oil seal (5).

  • Remove the crankshaft (1), the 4 upper crankshaft bearings (2) and the upper crankshaft thrust bearing (3).

  • Remove the 3 bolts (2) and the crankshaft position sensor reluctor ring (1).
 

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Engine Mechanical Specifications
Application
Specification
Metric
English
General Data

  • Engine Type
4-Cylinder Inline

  • Displacement
1364 ccm
83.24 cu in

  • Bore
72.5 mm
2.854 in

  • Stroke
82.6 mm
3.3 in

  • Compression Ratio
9.5:1

  • Number of Valves
16

  • Maximum Power @ engine speed KW/RPM
105 KW /4900

  • Maximum Torque @ engine speed Y / RPM / lb ft / RPM
200 Y / 1850
148 lb ft / 4000
Engine Block

  • Deck Surface Flatness
0.05 mm
0.0019 in

  • Bearing Bore Roundness Tolerance
0.008 mm
0.0003 in

  • Cylinder Bore Diameter Standard
72.492 mm – 72.508 mm
2.8540 in – 2.8546 in

  • Cylinder Bore Diameter Oversize 0.5
72.992 mm – 73.008 mm
2.8737 in – 2.8743 in
Piston, Piston Rings and Piston Pins

  • Piston Diameter Standard
72.453 mm – 72.467 mm
2.8525 in – 2.8530 in

  • Piston Diameter Oversize 0.5
72.953 mm – 72.967 mm
2.8722 in – 2.8727 in

  • Piston Clearance to Bore
0.025 mm –0.055 mm
0.001 in – 0.0022 in

  • Piston – Upper Compression Ring Thickness
1.17 mm – 1.195 mm
0.0461 in 0.047 in

  • Piston – Upper Compression Ring Ring Gap
0.25 mm – 0.4 mm
0.0098 in – 0.0157 in

  • Piston – Upper Compression Ring Side Clearance
0.025 mm – 0.07 mm
0.001 in – 0.0028 in

  • Piston – Lower Compression Ring Thickness
1.17 mm – 1.195 mm
0.0461 in 0.047 in

  • Piston – Lower Compression Ring Ring Gap
0.4 mm – 0.6 mm
0.0157 in – 0.0236 in

  • Piston – Lower Compression Ring Side Clearance
0.025 mm – 0.07 mm
0.001 in – 0.0028 in

  • Piston – Oil Ring Thickness
1.92 mm – 2 mm
0.0756 in – 0.0787 in

  • Piston – Oil Ring Ring Gap
0.25 mm – 0.75 mm
0.0098 in – 0.0295 in

  • Piston – Oil Ring Side Clearance
0.04 mm – 0.12 mm
0.0016 in – 0.0047 in

  • Piston Pin Bore Diameter
18.006 mm – 18.012 mm
0.7089 in – 0.7091 in

  • Piston Pin Outer Diameter
17.995 mm – 18 mm
0.7085 in – 0.7087 in

  • Piston Pin Length
48 mm
1.8898 in

  • Piston Pin Clearance to Piston Bore
0.005 mm – 0.010 mm
0.0002 in – 0.00039 in

  • Piston Pin Clearance to Conrod Bore
0.010 mm – 0.018 mm
0.0039 in – 0.00070 in
Crankshaft

  • Crankshaft Bearing Journal Standard Diameter (brown or green)
50.004 mm –50.017 mm
1.9687 in – 1.9692 in

  • Crankshaft Bearing Journal Undersize 0.25 Diameter (brown/blue or green/blue)
49.754 mm –49.767 mm
1.9588 in – 1.9593 in

  • Crankshaft Bearing Journal Undersize 0.5 Diameter (brown/white or green/white)
49.504 mm –49.517 mm
1.949 in – 1.9495 in

  • Crankshaft Bearing Journal Width Standard
23.000 mm –23.052 mm
0.9055 in – 0.9076 in

  • Crankshaft Bearing Journal Width Undersize 0.25
23.200 mm –23.252 mm
0.9134 in – 0.9154 in

  • Crankshaft Bearing Journal Width Undersize 0.4
23.400 mm –23.452 mm
0.9213 in – 0.9233 in

  • Crankshaft Bearing Mark 328N (brown) – Thickness
1.989 mm –1.995 mm
0.0783 in – 0.0785 in

  • Crankshaft Bearing Mark 329N (green) – Thickness
1.995 mm –2.001 mm
0.0785 in – 0.0788 in

  • Crankshaft Bearing Mark 330N – Thickness Undersize 0.25 (brown/blue)
2.114 mm – 2.120 mm
0.0832 in – 0.0835 in

  • Crankshaft Bearing Mark 331 – Thickness Undersize 0.25 (green/blue)
2.120 mm – 2.126 mm
0.0835 in – 0.0837 in

  • Crankshaft Bearing Mark 332 – Thickness Undersize 0.5 (brown/white)
2.239 mm – 2.245 mm
0.0881 in – 0.0884 in

  • Crankshaft Bearing Mark 332 – Thickness Undersize 0.5 (green/white)
2.245 mm – 2.251 mm
0.0884 in – 0.0886 in

  • Crankshaft Bearing Clearance
0.007 mm – 0.031 mm
0.0003 in – 0.0012 in

  • Crankshaft Bearing Clearance Axial
0.100 mm – 0.202 mm
0.0039 in – 0.008 in

  • Crankshaft Bearing Out Of Round
0.03 mm
0.0012 in

  • Connecting Rod Bearing Journal Diameter Standard
42.971 mm – 42.987 mm
1.6918 in – 1.6924 in

  • Connecting Rod Bearing Journal Diameter Undersize 0.25 (blue)
42.721 mm –42.737 mm
1.6819 in – 1.6826 in

  • Connecting Rod Bearing Journal Diameter Undersize 0.5 (white)
42.471 mm –42.487 mm
1.6721 in – 1.6727 in

  • Connecting Rod Bearing Thickness Standard
1.490 mm – 1.500 mm
0.0587 in – 0.0591 in

  • Connecting Rod Bearing Thickness Undersize 0.25
1.615 mm – 1.625 mm
0.0636 in – 0.064 in

  • Connecting Rod Bearing Thickness Undersize 0.5
1.740 mm – 1.750 mm
0.0685 in – 0.0689 in

  • Connecting Rod Bearing Diameter Standard (upper and lower)
1.490 mm – 1.500 mm
0.0587 in – 0.0591 in

  • Connecting Rod Bearing Diameter Undersize 0.25 (upper and lower)
1.615 mm – 1.625 mm
0.0636 in – 0.064 in

  • Connecting Rod Bearing Diameter Undersize 0.5 (upper and lower)
1.740 mm – 1.750 mm
0.0685 in – 0.0689 in

  • Connecting Rod Bearing Clearance
0.013 mm – 0.061 mm
0.0005 in – 0.0024 in

Engine Mechanical Specifications
 
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