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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey all, new to the forum. just bought a 2013 cruze LT manual with 30k on it for 10500 out the door. not a bad deal IMHO.

I just bought three quarts of amsoil synchromesh to swap into my transmission. that being said, should I try to get a new transmission from the local Chevy dealer since this is still covered under the power train warranty or do I just swap out the fluid and work with what I got?

this is my first manual so I don't have anything to really compair it to though it does feel notchy and have to use a little force to put it in gear especially in 2 and 3.

thanks for any input!
 

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Hello, welcome to the forum! I'm not sure what you mean by "get a new transmission from the local chevy dealer" but if your transmission still works then probably not. If this is your first time driving manual ever, this is an interesting car to start with. The Cruze offers almost no feedback to assist your decisions. The clutch is so light and feels very numb, as does the gas/brakes. The gear shifter itself is kind of clunky at times especially when it's cold but when it's warm it's usually smooth as butter. I do recommend changing the fluid though since the stock fluid is shockingly thin.

This thread has a lot of information about it.
http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/10-powertrain/36617-cruze-manual-transmission-m32-issues.html
http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/129-...627-how-change-manual-transmission-fluid.html
 

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Swapping the transmission fluid is considered routine maintenance so it won't be covered under the powertrain warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
ok thanks for the replys. I'm going to switch out the fluid. I was just thinking there might be damage done to the transmission since the OEM fluid was so thin. I'll report back next week after its done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
just put in 2.25 quarts of amsoil synchromesh. I wanted to put in more (2.5) but we only drained about 1.75 and my father in law didn't feel comfortable going with anymore. didn't want to push it since with out him I wouldent have been able to pull this off.

so far after 15 miles I don't feel much of a difference but will give it some time.

here is a pic of what we drained out.
 

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Never was a problem when that stick went directly into the transmission in practically any RWD vehicle. Is now with FWD with all that linkage. Have to lubricate my linkage, mostly under the hood, frequently using Liquid Wrench spray can lubricant. Any thing that moves need the that oil.

Having a bit of a battle with myself on this issue, we put over 150K miles on our 04 Cavalier, and I never touched the MT oil, still good as was that 2.2 L engine, but with this dang road salt, body was a pile of rust. Only reason to get rid of it.

Dealer wants 40 bucks for the recommended stuff, checked mine at 45K, still looks like brand new, and with my taste test, not accurate, swear they are putting in dexos synthetic oil in it at around $4.25 a quart. For some odd 90 years were just using motor oil in these things.

This is what my way overpriced Volvo boat outdrive calls for, but using Mobile One in that, it does not foam up if a little moisture gets in there. Only takes two quarts. Honda's used conventional oil as well. Looks likes a messy job to change it, drain plug is over the frame on the Cruze.

Amsoil claims no compatible oil for the Cruze. Have no idea what GM is pouring in there, but do know, clutch free play has to be exact, and the linkage sure needs periodically lubrication. As soon as it start to feel stiff, out comes the spray can. Think they should have a zerk fitting on that rotating collar. But these kid engineers never heard of a zerk fitting.
 

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If you detect any coarse noises in 5th or 6th gears there's probably already been damage done, but with only 30K miles it's very possible it's still fine. I don't think you'll get anywhere with warranty replacement unless it's making noise or not working properly, so if neither of these criteria are currently met just drain and refill with 2-2.5 qts. of Amsoil manual trans. synchromesh 5w30 (you can use the thicker weight, but my humble opinion is that it's unnecessary unless you're going to push it harder than 99% of stock cars get pushed) and drive on. A bit of effort into 2nd gear is normal due to the wide ratio gap. I've never noticed extra effort needed on 3rd, but I wouldn't be alarmed if it's only slightly greater than what's needed for 4th/5th/6th.
 
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