Chevrolet Cruze Forums banner
1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So this really isn't a how to write up, but more a pictorial overview of where/how I ran everything.

The kit is the Morimoto H7 Elite. The kit came with the following: 5500K H7 bulbs, 55W ballasts, an anit-flicker capacitor (for the DRLs), and a heavy duty relay harness.

First, for this job I had to drop the bumper, I think if I had the factory headlights, I would not have had to drop the bumper, but I have Winjet dual projectors and the spacing is very tight, especially on the driver's side.
1 – To drop the bumper from the car you will need to remove the body screws from inside the wheel well.
Tire Automotive tire Rim Automotive wheel system Wheel


2 – Then you will need to remove the 2 screws from the top of the grill and the 4 plastic body rivets.
Vehicle Automotive exterior Auto part Windshield Hood


3 – Then you will need to pop the bumper from the clips. Obviously you don’t want to break one of the clips as I did, but grab the bumper from the wheel well and gently pull, this will expose the clips. Using a fine flat head screw drivers undo the clip. Take care not to break or strip the clips.
Bumper Automotive exterior Auto part Vehicle Hood


4 – Remove the headlights. They are secured with 4 screws, one at the top of the headlight, one near the grill, one under the turn signal, and one below the main bulbs.
Vehicle Car Automotive lighting Automotive exterior Headlamp


5 – Disconnect all of the OEM harnesses, remove the old bulb, clean the new bulb w/alcohol wipes, and install just like the OEM bulb.
Motor vehicle Vehicle Auto part Car Engine


6 – At this point it is very plug and play. At this point you want to have a game plan where you want to install your ballasts, HD relay, and where you want to run your wiring.
Electrical wiring Wire Cable Auto part Tire


7 – Starting on the passenger side: I installed the ballast inside the air ducting, below the air box. I was able to do this, because I deleted the ducting. I used heavy duty tie nylon zip ties to install everything. Note the OEM power outlet from the headlight to the ballast on the passenger side is unused. The ballasts gets power from the HD relay. Use GOOD electrical tape and tape off this plug.
Auto part Engine Machine
Auto part Engine Vehicle Automotive engine part Fuel line


8 – I grounded the HD relay to the ground post located directly beneath the air box.
Auto part Engine Motor vehicle Auto mechanic Fuel line


9 – I ran the wiring across the backside of the radiator along the existing OEM wiring run. I secured the wiring with zip ties every 6-inches or so.
Engine Motor vehicle Auto part Vehicle Automotive engine part


10 – Now the driver’s side was a little trickier, because there is considerably less under-the-hood real-estate. I mounted both the ballast and HD relay under the battery cover. Everything fits very snug, but fits nicely.
Auto part Vehicle Engine Car Wire


11 – Ground the anti-flicker capacitor. I grounded the capacitor to the grounding post located above and behind the driver’s side headlight.
Hand
Auto part Automotive exterior Bumper Vehicle Engine


12 – Connect the power lead to the battery and install the 20 amp fuse.
Auto part Engine Metal


13 – Reassemble, make sure you did not run any of your cables through any pinch points.
Engine Vehicle Auto part Car
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Engine Auto part


14 – Behold the awesome!
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Headlamp Light
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Chevrolet cruze Headlamp
Headlamp Vehicle Automotive lighting Car Light


Please feel free to hit me up with any questions!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
why did you go with 2 bulb system?

cost, looks or?

the DRL's still work?

i priced up a rx350 retrofit ~3mos ago, just havent pulled the trigger
All of the above.

1 - I really like the Winjet dual bulb system. Here's a picture of the new headlights
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Chevrolet cruze Chevrolet


2 - If i were to do a true projector retrofit, I would have had to purchase another set of backup headlights, just in case i screwed up the retrofit. So a junkyard OEM set of headlights would have set me back around $250-300 and then another 300$ for the full projector retrofit (projectors and HID kit). I picked up the Winjets for $400-ish and one month later I picked up the Morimoto's H7 Elite kit for $150 + $15 for the anti-flicker capacitor.

3 - Yup, DRL's still work. You need to make sure if you do the HID upgrade to buy the anti-flicker capacitor, this will allow the DRL to work. It is my understand that the DRLs run off of a pulse signal and the capacitor fills the gaps between the pulses.

I am very happy with the results.
Cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hopefully my response is not too late, but no you will not need anything else to have a full working set of headlights, if you don't want to deal with the hyper flash of your turn signal, you will need to buy a set of resistors to trick the car into thinking it still has an old school bulb where the LED turn signal bulbs.

Also, if you want to upgrade to the HID system as I did, you will need to buy HID bulbs, ballasts, igniters, and the wiring harness. I bought everything through the retrofit source: https://www.theretrofitsource.com/

Happy upgrading!
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top