Joined
·
133 Posts
So this really isn't a how to write up, but more a pictorial overview of where/how I ran everything.
The kit is the Morimoto H7 Elite. The kit came with the following: 5500K H7 bulbs, 55W ballasts, an anit-flicker capacitor (for the DRLs), and a heavy duty relay harness.
First, for this job I had to drop the bumper, I think if I had the factory headlights, I would not have had to drop the bumper, but I have Winjet dual projectors and the spacing is very tight, especially on the driver's side.
1 – To drop the bumper from the car you will need to remove the body screws from inside the wheel well.
![Tire Automotive tire Rim Automotive wheel system Wheel]()
2 – Then you will need to remove the 2 screws from the top of the grill and the 4 plastic body rivets.
![Vehicle Automotive exterior Auto part Windshield Hood]()
3 – Then you will need to pop the bumper from the clips. Obviously you don’t want to break one of the clips as I did, but grab the bumper from the wheel well and gently pull, this will expose the clips. Using a fine flat head screw drivers undo the clip. Take care not to break or strip the clips.
![Bumper Automotive exterior Auto part Vehicle Hood]()
4 – Remove the headlights. They are secured with 4 screws, one at the top of the headlight, one near the grill, one under the turn signal, and one below the main bulbs.
![Vehicle Car Automotive lighting Automotive exterior Headlamp]()
5 – Disconnect all of the OEM harnesses, remove the old bulb, clean the new bulb w/alcohol wipes, and install just like the OEM bulb.
![Motor vehicle Vehicle Auto part Car Engine]()
6 – At this point it is very plug and play. At this point you want to have a game plan where you want to install your ballasts, HD relay, and where you want to run your wiring.
![Electrical wiring Wire Cable Auto part Tire]()
7 – Starting on the passenger side: I installed the ballast inside the air ducting, below the air box. I was able to do this, because I deleted the ducting. I used heavy duty tie nylon zip ties to install everything. Note the OEM power outlet from the headlight to the ballast on the passenger side is unused. The ballasts gets power from the HD relay. Use GOOD electrical tape and tape off this plug.
![Auto part Engine Machine]()
![Auto part Engine Vehicle Automotive engine part Fuel line]()
8 – I grounded the HD relay to the ground post located directly beneath the air box.
![Auto part Engine Motor vehicle Auto mechanic Fuel line]()
9 – I ran the wiring across the backside of the radiator along the existing OEM wiring run. I secured the wiring with zip ties every 6-inches or so.
![Engine Motor vehicle Auto part Vehicle Automotive engine part]()
10 – Now the driver’s side was a little trickier, because there is considerably less under-the-hood real-estate. I mounted both the ballast and HD relay under the battery cover. Everything fits very snug, but fits nicely.
![Auto part Vehicle Engine Car Wire]()
11 – Ground the anti-flicker capacitor. I grounded the capacitor to the grounding post located above and behind the driver’s side headlight.
![Hand]()
![Auto part Automotive exterior Bumper Vehicle Engine]()
12 – Connect the power lead to the battery and install the 20 amp fuse.
![Auto part Engine Metal]()
13 – Reassemble, make sure you did not run any of your cables through any pinch points.
![Engine Vehicle Auto part Car]()
![Land vehicle Vehicle Car Engine Auto part]()
14 – Behold the awesome!
![Land vehicle Vehicle Car Headlamp Light]()
![Land vehicle Vehicle Car Chevrolet cruze Headlamp]()
![Headlamp Vehicle Automotive lighting Car Light]()
Please feel free to hit me up with any questions!
The kit is the Morimoto H7 Elite. The kit came with the following: 5500K H7 bulbs, 55W ballasts, an anit-flicker capacitor (for the DRLs), and a heavy duty relay harness.
First, for this job I had to drop the bumper, I think if I had the factory headlights, I would not have had to drop the bumper, but I have Winjet dual projectors and the spacing is very tight, especially on the driver's side.
1 – To drop the bumper from the car you will need to remove the body screws from inside the wheel well.
2 – Then you will need to remove the 2 screws from the top of the grill and the 4 plastic body rivets.
3 – Then you will need to pop the bumper from the clips. Obviously you don’t want to break one of the clips as I did, but grab the bumper from the wheel well and gently pull, this will expose the clips. Using a fine flat head screw drivers undo the clip. Take care not to break or strip the clips.
4 – Remove the headlights. They are secured with 4 screws, one at the top of the headlight, one near the grill, one under the turn signal, and one below the main bulbs.
5 – Disconnect all of the OEM harnesses, remove the old bulb, clean the new bulb w/alcohol wipes, and install just like the OEM bulb.
6 – At this point it is very plug and play. At this point you want to have a game plan where you want to install your ballasts, HD relay, and where you want to run your wiring.
7 – Starting on the passenger side: I installed the ballast inside the air ducting, below the air box. I was able to do this, because I deleted the ducting. I used heavy duty tie nylon zip ties to install everything. Note the OEM power outlet from the headlight to the ballast on the passenger side is unused. The ballasts gets power from the HD relay. Use GOOD electrical tape and tape off this plug.
8 – I grounded the HD relay to the ground post located directly beneath the air box.
9 – I ran the wiring across the backside of the radiator along the existing OEM wiring run. I secured the wiring with zip ties every 6-inches or so.
10 – Now the driver’s side was a little trickier, because there is considerably less under-the-hood real-estate. I mounted both the ballast and HD relay under the battery cover. Everything fits very snug, but fits nicely.
11 – Ground the anti-flicker capacitor. I grounded the capacitor to the grounding post located above and behind the driver’s side headlight.
12 – Connect the power lead to the battery and install the 20 amp fuse.
13 – Reassemble, make sure you did not run any of your cables through any pinch points.
14 – Behold the awesome!
Please feel free to hit me up with any questions!
