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2014 Cruze Diesel, 2007 Cobalt, 1981 Camaro Z28, 2017 Volt
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So, as I had mentioned in the couple of recent threads about cleaning the throttle plate and EGR valve, I wanted to check ours and clean if needed to combat some running/starting issues my wife has been encountering in the past months.

I started at about 8PM, so it was pretty dark, but that wasn't an issue, since I have a nice bright LED light, and both of these things are pretty near the top on the back of the engine. Easy to see and reach.

I went to try and remove the EGR - but the two hard lines blocked my T30 socket from reaching to top bolt, and no amount of extensions could help, since the socket itself wouldn't fit. Oh well, that will need to be for another day (those who have done it - did you have an extended torx "bit" in the socket, or were you able to move those hard lines out of the way via unbolting them?). ****.

The throttle plate is a whole lot easier to access and remove, so I pulled it off, and it was nice and gunked up. Still moved pretty freely, but I can imagine it did not help matters.
Auto part Automotive engine part Flange Wheel
Auto part

After some brake and carb cleaner, much better:
Auto part Automotive engine part Carburetor
Auto part Automotive engine part Wheel

Now...with the throttle plate off, I also noticed the now-open intake manifold was absolutely disgusting - an extremely large amount of gross build up. Has anyone encountered this much **** in your intake manifold? To clean this properly, I'd need to remove the whole manifold, and I can imagine how much farther it goes in if this is just the inlet...
Auto part
I pulled out quite a lot, as much as I could (I didn't want to shove any farther back into the intake, past the air diverter), but it's still clearly gross as **** in there.


Hopefully once we get back from vacation (and once I figure out how to remove that top EGR bolt), I can pull that out and clean it out.

Any thoughts on the intake gunk?
 

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Wow that is pretty gross! I don't think yours looked much different than mine when I cleaned it last weekend. I will take the throttle plate right off next time and try clean up around the EGR diverter a bit more. Thanks for the pictures.

PCV vapor must be the main cause of all this gunk and then it mixes with the EGR stream to gum things up further down the intake. I was wondering if the gunk build up in my intake was an anomaly, but suspect most of the CTD engines will have this build-up.

Big job to remove the intake manifold. I wonder how the swirl valves look............
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Any thoughts on the intake gunk?
If it were mine (I hate what EGR does to diesels):
I'd take the manifold off, clean it, and replace the EGR-intake gasket with some RTV and a metal plate.
Since this will probably cause codes and maybe limp mode, I'd plan on flashing a tune to make the computer happy again.
 

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So, as I had mentioned in the couple of recent threads about cleaning the throttle plate and EGR valve, I wanted to check ours and clean if needed to combat some running/starting issues my wife has been encountering in the past months.

I started at about 8PM, so it was pretty dark, but that wasn't an issue, since I have a nice bright LED light, and both of these things are pretty near the top on the back of the engine. Easy to see and reach.

I went to try and remove the EGR - but the two hard lines blocked my T30 socket from reaching to top bolt, and no amount of extensions could help, since the socket itself wouldn't fit. Oh well, that will need to be for another day (those who have done it - did you have an extended torx "bit" in the socket, or were you able to move those hard lines out of the way via unbolting them?). ****.

The throttle plate is a whole lot easier to access and remove, so I pulled it off, and it was nice and gunked up. Still moved pretty freely, but I can imagine it did not help matters.
View attachment 241738
View attachment 241746

After some brake and carb cleaner, much better:
View attachment 241754
View attachment 241762

Now...with the throttle plate off, I also noticed the now-open intake manifold was absolutely disgusting - an extremely large amount of gross build up. Has anyone encountered this much **** in your intake manifold? To clean this properly, I'd need to remove the whole manifold, and I can imagine how much farther it goes in if this is just the inlet...
View attachment 241770
I pulled out quite a lot, as much as I could (I didn't want to shove any farther back into the intake, past the air diverter), but it's still clearly gross as **** in there.
View attachment 241778

Hopefully once we get back from vacation (and once I figure out how to remove that top EGR bolt), I can pull that out and clean it out.

Any thoughts on the intake gunk?

Excellent write-up and photos, thanks @MP81 for this post and also @Niebs6.2 for the previous one.

Just for reference/comparison...How many miles on your CTD's?
 

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2014 Cruze Diesel, 2007 Cobalt, 1981 Camaro Z28, 2017 Volt
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Exactly 63834 miles on ours.

Yes, I was definitely surprised at how much PCV/oil was in there - and definitely mixing with the EGR and turning into...that.

I can only imagine how the rest of the intake looks - and it worries me about the swirl valves. I hear the typical "squeaky squeak" noise after shutdown, but there's also another weird noise I'm not used to hearing - hopefully not something else getting stuck, haha.

Wonder if anyone has run a PCV catch can, and if so, if it helps this condition.

My hands (and around my fingernails) are still black. Clean...but stained. Pretty normal, haha.
 

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This helped me understand EGR and the mess it causes in Diesel intake systems.

The Evil Of EGR On Diesel Engines - Diesel Power Magazine

Here's a catch can install write-up:

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/169-...ary/53889-how-add-catch-can-your-2-0-ctd.html
The EGR two bolts are tricky, specifically the top one, I will post a pic of what I bought at Sears, it worked, in retrospect they had a very thin t30 on a t handle with a long extension, 6 inches, I think that could work better.

The black crud you are showing is nothing short of depressing. I have 43k miles. Not to start any sort of bad blood, because I have been anti delete and all, so I am not suggesting should or shouldn't delete. I would like to see the same parts you removed from a deleted engine from almost new, I don't want to deal with continuing build up issues.

I know @diesel never had an EGR issue in 200k miles, but I think from his words he drives much harder than the normal driver on a very regular basis.

Again, I will post the tool I used, it's nothing special but did get the job done.
 

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Excellent write-up and photos, thanks @MP81 for this post and also @Niebs6.2 for the previous one.

Just for reference/comparison...How many miles on your CTD's?
I had a 95 Mercedes diesel with 255k miles. I bypassed the EGR and removed the intake and took to a engine rebuilder to put in a tank to get the crud out, there wasn't any way I could have cleaned it. I don't know what our intakes look like and how to clean any other way than to take it somewhere to be cleaned. But to be honest, I don't want an engine I have to tear apart to clean...yuck
 

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OM606?
What did the butterflies in the intake look like?
Did they still move freely?
It was their straight 6, great engine. I don't recall what the butterflies looked like, I just recall it was pretty basic and a mess and engine ran better after cleaning everything.
 

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(those who have done it - did you have an extended torx "bit" in the socket, or were you able to move those hard lines out of the way via unbolting them?). ****.
this is what i used to get the top bolt



but i also undid the two bolts (10mm head) on the thin metal strap that holds those two hard lines in place, and then jammed a screwdriver under that strap to keep the hardlines elevated to make room

^the contraption of sockets and extensions was way wobbly and kept falling down the engine bay, then i tried this



worked perfectly too, except the bolts are blue loctited so harder to torque it off than with a socket wrench.










73000 miles 43 usmpg lifetime
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ahh, so you used essentially a nut-driver torx socket "rigged" into a socket wrench? I've done similar things before, but I'm always worried about it falling out, since it's basically just set in there.

When I get back home, I think I'm going to buy a set of T-handle torx wrenches - those should give me plenty of oomph to remove the bolt - and putting it back in shouldn't be much different, given the low torque spec.
 
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Ahh, so you used essentially a nut-driver torx socket "rigged" into a socket wrench? I've done similar things before, but I'm always worried about it falling out, since it's basically just set in there.

When I get back home, I think I'm going to buy a set of T-handle torx wrenches - those should give me plenty of oomph to remove the bolt - and putting it back in shouldn't be much different, given the low torque spec.
The t handle will work great....I used something similiar to boraz, and to your concern part of it fell apart and onto chassis, the t handle should work great. Good luck
 
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Ahh, so you used essentially a nut-driver torx socket "rigged" into a socket wrench? I've done similar things before, but I'm always worried about it falling out, since it's basically just set in there.

When I get back home, I think I'm going to buy a set of T-handle torx wrenches - those should give me plenty of oomph to remove the bolt - and putting it back in shouldn't be much different, given the low torque spec.
oh i dropped the bit at least 5x :rofl:

made good use of my magnetic extension thingie :rofl:

twice i had to roll the car back (driveway in front of garage is sloped downhill) to retrieve dropped pieces because i would reach in put the torx bit in the bolt then attach the rest..i came close to putting some putty in the sockets for grip then remembered i had a screwdriver type bit driver...ive got 3 t30 torx sockets, but they dont fit cuz the bit shaft isnt long enough

a t handle torx will work great torque wise as long as its the proper length....thats why i have the 3/8 ratchet to 3/8-1/4 adapter instead of using a 1/4 ratchet...needed the extra length

a t30 torx socket with longer shaft will work perfect too

its a 2hr round trip to the closest hardware/parts store, so i try to make do

ive never needed a t handle torx before, and yeah its a good tool for THIS job, but for the same $$ im gonna buy magnetic hex bit extensions for versatility
 

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Is anyone running meth injection?
It should keep the intake spotless, and would probably clean up a dirty one

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Is anyone running meth injection?
It should keep the intake spotless, and would probably clean up a dirty one

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
What's meth injection? That sounds illegal. :unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Methanol injection - cars running big boost numbers will usually run meth in order to avoid moving up to race gas.
 
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