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2nd 2012 1.8l mt 147000km
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
After wrecking my first Cruze ( other project thread> black pearl ) I liked it so much I decided on #2, partially because I had a wearhouse of parts and like the performance feel, boy did I lose...


I'm owner #3 and the motor sounds like ****, getting a p0011 code ( intake cam adjuster inconsistent) don't know if that is the cause of the harsh start, but is an issue above 4k rpm on hard throttle. The oil cooler seals are shot too, and the bearing in the tranny for gear #3 is sloppy. I took a brief look under the the engine and looks like the accessory side engine seals are trashed.


Things I need to do for a safety are replace the front brake components and swap the rear coils springs for new.


And first thing to do change the oil. I like quaker state based on price... I change every 5-6k km/ 3500mi oil filter is usually wix as I get 6 at a time from rock auto for Penny's and the wix has a rubber o ring unlike any other with a felt seal.

Car Vehicle Grille Green Hood


And... There was regular oil in place. Soon as the snythetic hit it quieted down right away. Hopefully this is the issue.

Got the calipers loaded and ready, but the left side background in the above picture has a big ol snow drift in the way.. I never did make it to the garage due to a big old snow drift in the way. So the lane way was the best way.
 

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2nd 2012 1.8l mt 147000km
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have the stock coil springs off my 2012 if you want to buy them, I'm in Québec and can ship. They're in great shape, DM if you want them :)
Ahhh man thank you, but I got a set of Moog replacements.
 

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2012 LS, 6MT, Topaz Blue, ECO wheels
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Ahhh man thank you, but I got a set of Moog replacements.
all good, I have a set of Moog sway bar end links if you want to upgrade yours. I didn't know my coilovers came with adjustable ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Gas Auto part Metal Nickel Household hardware



Loaded the front calipers and break cleaned the rotors. Ready for the break job with a 80cc syringe so I can vacuum it out.

It's sad I can't hit these with primer and paint before I put them on. Hopefully the zinc dip is good enough for a couple months duty till I can get to that.


On the other hand the starting knock is down to 1 second instead of the first 3-5, and P0011 is gone, and overall running an sounding smoother... I don't know if it's track day smooth though as previously once my past car was at temp I'd have it in the 4 to 6is ( went to TMP in Cayuga and trashed in a wet track for 4 straight hours) opt thought timing belt would be liked and oil cooler a must.



.... Wanting to go to Shanonville motor sports park for there track day
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Tire Wheel Car Automotive parking light Vehicle


Nice and sparkly...

Got the shop to change over the coils, and passed safety, with a recommendation that I replace the rear struts.


The to do list
  • Oil cooler
  • Intake cam actuator (there's an aftermarket solonoid and connector spliced on, every 3rd-ish start problem goes away)
  • Rear struts
  • Timing belt

Got a look at under the engine while it was on the hoist, not bad rust wise. But the motor is leaking around the oil pan, rear main and front seal. Judging by the age of the valve cover and factoring in conventional oil use the PVC could need servicing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
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Did it with electrical tape, tried painting the last car but life doesn't have time for that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Wheel Tire Land vehicle Car Vehicle


All done.

Car Tire Vehicle Automotive tail & brake light Wheel

Not bad.

Changed the gear oil out, one bottle amsoil gear and a bottle n a half of amsoil Synchromesh. And some 600km later the shifting has improved, idling sound has improved, and milage is a tad better.

The unfortunate thing 5th an 6th bearings whine up to 2200rpm and sometimes growl. Shifting hard from second to third there is a double clunk noise coming from the tranny. So yeah bearings are needed for this one.


I'm hoping I can call the scrap yard and track down my last car, see if I can get myself the tranny so I can freshen it up an do a swap in a weekend instead of a multi week rebuild.
 
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2nd 2012 1.8l mt 147000km
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Little update,

Been 2500km and the tranny oil is working its magic, there's still bearing noise though but shifting is as it should be now.


Researching oil passages in the motor and possible ways to clean them out as well as where the check valves are. Been 3500km since the synthetic oil change and the engine oil is that black shade that needs changing.

So oil change, some marvel mystery oil added in and oil filter swap some... 400km in? to hopefully clean it up, cam rattle hasn't been too pronounced on start up but the p0011 code is still present.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Just put on order the last of the tuneup parts, should hopefully be able to do everything this weekend... hopefully, I've been a little un attentive in my motivation. so, this weekend's to do list, change the front wheels over, change oil, engine air filter, oil cooler, and timing belt coolant top off slash a check engine light code for the rad temp sensor not reading right. the P0011 cam code will wait as may 1st is coming quick

stuff on hand,
  • Quaker State synthetic 5w30
  • Two "big box premium oe spec" oil filters
  • bottle of marvel mystery oil.
  • fram engine air filter
  • 3 gallon distilled water, plus empty jugs
  • skp replacement oil cooler
  • 9 exhaust studs and nuts plus manifold seal
stuff to come
  • new ac delco spark plugs
  • continental timing belt kit
  • two temp sensors
haven't read the guide on the MMO but assume adding it in during a idle prior to the oil change and swapping the oil filter out after a couple 100km could do it some good. i've been keeping an eye on the oil and about the 3000km mark its gone dark enough to consider changing. fact it sat so long and had regular oil there may be some crud.

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Light Motor vehicle

It sucks when you plan and you end up doing half. Took a wire wheel to the drums and and surfaces. got the rear drums tightened up, and in that fit of energy called it a day putting on the rear rims in my avatar pic, DAI Apex 16",
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Today's the day. I'm looking forward to fooling around and wrenching on the car. One more thing I gotta check out is the ac compressor... The car stalls every time the ac clutch engages.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hood Luggage and bags Bottle Table Bag

Mmmkay full parts haul

Book Gas Rectangle Handwriting Wood

Mmm yeah look at that 151 thousand km in a OEM filter... Boy.

Product Household hardware Office supplies Auto part Gas

Plugs look good all were loose Sept for cylinder 1. Cylinders 2,3,4 seem to have alot of deposits built up on them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Tire Automotive tire Wheel Motor vehicle Automotive design

More new lug nuts. Black 7 spline to go with the summer rims.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Vehicle brake Wood

She's a self lubricator. Most the oil on this side appears to be from the oil pan... Hopefully not the front timing seal.

Motor vehicle Wood Automotive tire Automotive lighting Automotive exterior

Didn't get a better shot of the front but the oil travels up to the oil cooler and oil pressure sensor.

And this about summarizes all the work I did. I tried going for the timing belt, but who has thin wall reverse torque. In my previous car I got lucky using a 8mm socket on the timing cover but not this time.

The oil cooler i stopped at the dipstick tube turns out the self lubrication doesn't cover dipstick tubes as the bottom is rusted into the oil pan. So next oil change I'll rip out the tube sand, prime, an paint. And take care of that later
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Placed on order a dip stick seal and a doorman oil cooler seal kit. I'm looking into the oil pressure sensor too..
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood Automotive lighting

And I finally got to the timing belt. I broke the cover, the brass insert spun so it was a sol moment. There's no oil seepage on the timing side, but the idler bearing did poop its contents everywhere so a bit of grim with all the belt dust. Given that I washed the timing cover, hermonic balancer and gave a soapy scrub to the inside... The p0011 code looks strong with this one... New soliniod, new cam gear "Ina china" complements of the previous purchaser. Although original belts/ rollers. The water pump seems to have a couple seeping spots better veiwed without the timing cover on.


Automotive tire Gear Auto part Automotive wheel system Gas


Stressing that you need the "special" lock tool to change your belt? Naw easy peasy the exhaust cam is a easy one hander to twist. I do recommend the carry over method with this. Marking spots with sharpy as pictured below, makes for a fool proof way as you verify the belt Length carrying over the marks, and everything is marked on the gears.

Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood Automotive design


And back to better. The car runs a little more responsive. And quieter

Weird notes I thought I torqued the crank bolt, and on start up the bolts threaded out. After reinstalling I turned on the car and the headlights were blinking along with the parking brake on warning beeper, even though I didn't have the parking brake drawn. Second start up the lights still blinked and the next start it was back to normal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
good stuff, the sort of maintenance I hope to be doing this summer.

on another note, what direction does that crank turn? clockwise of counter-clockwise?
So facing the engine as pictured it will be a clock wise rotation. With the slack and tensioner on the left. Fyi the tensioner has a two stage spring so there's a lot more travel for installing the belt.
 

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2012 LS, 6MT, Topaz Blue, ECO wheels
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Auhhh, I'm not sure what rib you mean
The crankshaft pulley, the harmonic balancer, if it's easier, you can measure circumference by wrapping a tape around it. I'll extrapolate.

edit : I'm asking because this is a measurement I don't have yet to finish my supercharger calculations.
 
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