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My second Cruze, project "Magpie"

14391 Views 185 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Cruzing12
2
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Current. DAI Nerve rims



After wrecking my first Cruze ( other project thread> black pearl ) I liked it so much I decided on #2, partially because I had a wearhouse of parts and like the performance feel, boy did I lose...


I'm owner #3 and the motor sounds like ****, getting a p0011 code ( intake cam adjuster inconsistent) don't know if that is the cause of the harsh start, but is an issue above 4k rpm on hard throttle. The oil cooler seals are shot too, and the bearing in the tranny for gear #3 is sloppy. I took a brief look under the the engine and looks like the accessory side engine seals are trashed.


Things I need to do for a safety are replace the front brake components and swap the rear coils springs for new.


And first thing to do change the oil. I like quaker state based on price... I change every 5-6k km/ 3500mi oil filter is usually wix as I get 6 at a time from rock auto for Penny's and the wix has a rubber o ring unlike any other with a felt seal.

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And... There was regular oil in place. Soon as the snythetic hit it quieted down right away. Hopefully this is the issue.

Got the calipers loaded and ready, but the left side background in the above picture has a big ol snow drift in the way.. I never did make it to the garage due to a big old snow drift in the way. So the lane way was the best way.
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That was a fast change of the intake. Given the loose hose and bolt, I suppose it wouldn't hurt to go around the engine lto make sure everything is as it should be.

Did you replace the valve cover? Our Astra had a poorly-designed PCV flapper which started leaking around 60k miles. That could cause misfires.

It wasn't easy for us to diagnose but here are some tips we used for c.2008 z18xer engines (GM stated they had revised the PCV around that time so yours might be different). Below are some tips we used, but of course the system could be different for the 2012 Cruze.

"Try to pull the dipstick out when the engine is running. Get someone to rev it to around 3k when you remove it. It should come out without to much bother. If it comes out and theres a vaccum then theres a good chance the membrane in the rocker covers gone and its causing a vaccum which is were your noise is coming from."

Video below for an Astra. The first 58 seconds shows how one might detect a bad membrane and how a new one behaves. The small rectangle hissing & oil cap removing difficulty are hints. Google translate of some of his comments: "symptoms of damaged pneumothorax: hissing sound as in the movie and sometimes strange knocking, knocking, uneven engine operation, oil burning, oil in the collector, suction of the oil filler cap"


Below, these guys sell replacement membranes, but I don't see anything listed for your car. We just purchased a new valve cover, but even with brute force, we couldn't disassemble the hardened plastic housing for the PCV (the video says to use heat and that it is easy to break).

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That was a fast change of the intake. Given the loose hose and bolt, I suppose it wouldn't hurt to go around the engine lto make sure everything is as it should be.

Did you replace the valve cover? Our Astra had a poorly-designed PCV flapper which started leaking around 60k miles. That could cause misfires.

It wasn't easy for us to diagnose but here are some tips we used for c.2008 z18xer engines (GM stated they had revised the PCV around that time so yours might be different). Below are some tips we used, but of course the system could be different for the 2012 Cruze.

"Try to pull the dipstick out when the engine is running. Get someone to rev it to around 3k when you remove it. It should come out without to much bother. If it comes out and theres a vaccum then theres a good chance the membrane in the rocker covers gone and its causing a vaccum which is were your noise is coming from."

Video below for an Astra. The first 58 seconds shows how one might detect a bad membrane and how a new one behaves. The small rectangle hissing & oil cap removing difficulty are hints. Google translate of some of his comments: "symptoms of damaged pneumothorax: hissing sound as in the movie and sometimes strange knocking, knocking, uneven engine operation, oil burning, oil in the collector, suction of the oil filler cap"


Below, these guys sell replacement membranes, but I don't see anything listed for your car. We just purchased a new valve cover, but even with brute force, we couldn't disassemble the hardened plastic housing for the PCV (the video says to use heat and that it is easy to break).


True I did reuse the valve cover on the wrecker motor, so may need to swap out covers, or keep the OEM and get a skp replacement PCV.

So you say I could use a rock to hold the throttle pedal at 3000rpm, and at that rpm, there shouldn't be any draw when I pull the dip stick.


I'm thinking a 10¢ coin could fit in the pipe and block most the flow, but need to think about that more.
More Information for SKP SK121277

This is the cruzes 1.8L PCV
That 3k rpm is one test & the video has some others but frankly we found all the tests pretty subtle and difficult to interpret. Air at that small rectangle was the most "obvious" for us as non-pros.


According to an older Vauxhall service note, "For variants with map sensor it's also possible to check the manifold absolute pressure with the Tech 2. During idle and without load it should be between 32 - 38 kPa." I don't know if that is applicable to newer z18xer engines with North American emissions.


Thanks for that that SKP link for the PCV gizmo. I didn't know that was for sale. The gaskets are VERY prone to leak so get a good replacement gasket too; many put a very SMALL dap of RTV at the sharp 90* corners. Consider just buying an OEM cover (which should include the gasket and bolts).

Make sure the pcv system has no chance of being fully blocked. On our Ecotec 2.4, a blocked pcv passage blows a lot of rear main seals.
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started my car today and on idle had the classic pcv idle surge, a first. will be switching out to the skp valve cover i put on the old engine.


on another note. I dug out my wires, to setup my aux power system. i'm running two 4awg wires through the fire wall via the shift cable grommet, one positive, another negative.

also setting up the rear wood extended trunk/ sleeping platform. i'm close to my final design... didn't realize the trunk is wider than 48" at the tail lights.
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Okay, 1200km valve train check up. Rust spots (Three lobes under the oil fill cap) on the lobes are hardly noticeable.
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Pulling the valve cover and swapping with the new skp unit I put on the old motor, to see if the PCV is bad. I've been driving tediously below 1900 rpm to prevent a misfire.


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Clean corner seam.... And clean insides too.
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So, nothing still missing


Going to inspect the PCV hose. And book a shop to finish my exhaust. In the meantime I'm going to get a compression fitting for the fuel line, so I can cut out the kinked section.

Fuel line is really the only pressing thing at the moment.
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Tightened it and... Off to the junk yard, eventually. I'm not sure if the fitting had condensation or if it was weeping, at that point I had lost my smell of gas. Down at the u pull there's my choice of three cruzes that I can get a new line off of. I will need to follow up with a bender tool as the line is pressing against the steering rack( blue shop rag)... Previous owner got a clutch done and they opted for a sub frame drop, so all three of the fire wall clasps for the fuel line/ return line/ brake lines were left open. Sadly need to drop the sub frame to be able to close them....

And the misfire continues, the patch helped as I feel an improvement in throttling up from a stand still, idle rpms are lower 750 and more crisp with the odd stumble every 30's-60's of seconds. fuel trims are stable, long-term was in the teens 13, short term was in the negative single digits -2.5 to 3. Maf showing 2.2grams.

Didn't do enough driving but it seems I had to try this time, every time in between 2-3k rpm and coming up to cruising speed/ holding rpm.

Off to an exhaust shop...



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Got out n about for a drive. The misfire triggers the light at a little higher cruising speed 2100rpm and now at occasionally at idle while I take it out of gear and let off the throttle pedal coming up to a stop. And transitioning from full engine braking to acceleration. Other than that trouble free wot, light n heavy acceleration.

Exhaust is booked a week wensday.



Like a chimney the stack effect or a car's exhaust the scavenging effect can be ruined by a leak so this is what I'm believing to be the cuase given how intimate it is to off n on power.
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beautiful sunny day,





follow up: that's where they put / tapped into for the non functional auto starter...
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Hmm if I can get it going cool but if not, there's wires tapped into via solder and others spliced, I feel like deleting it.

Put off routing the positive through as I'll have to cut the holes from under the car.
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Oh I would remove the third-party auto starter!

Parasitic drain and unknown potential for shorts, intermittent connections, etc. Also gives you some comfort that splices and cuts will be properly sorted and wiring will be close to OEM.
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So removing the drivers side kick panel the shift cable fire wall grommet is right there easy access.

Perfect to run the wires I need... But the grommet has fire insulation so getting through it is proving to be the hassle.


I also figured out why I've been inundated with exhaust fumes... Mechanic took the window cowl drain completely out.... Just a gaping, hole 👌 nice.
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One small achievement today. Running the positive and dedicated negative through the shift line boot. Not that I need a dedicated ground, but want the possibility of; maxing out my inverter, adding in a second battery, or doing a battery relocation.


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Mouse stain, camera doesn't catch it but that's where I found a mini stow away.
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So when I put oil in the cylinders I neglected to do any cleaning. Just sort of put the plugs in and ran... While resealing the valve cover just now( taking my chances from the other day, but no dice) I took a look and seen the plugs swimming up to the drive section in oil... Threads black as night. Cleaned the plug wells, took a exacto knife to the threads and did the best I could. Also cleaned the coil pack ground on the head, no way that was making a solid connection.


I've done some research into miss conditions and could be a grounding issue. Always seems to happen when the motor wants to run it's leanest, some info saying that's when the spark is the weakest. The ground connects to the starter and the starter to the block and I know I didn't sand that area clean 😔.

I do have a "easy way out" from the last car I had made a 4awg ground from the head to battery, even for a little NA I could feel the difference in spark
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Here's where I currently have the wires, need to secure them better, but to what...

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Found my electrical problem from the other day, driving in heavy rain and every time wipers cycled dash would glitch/ black out, radio would trip . The wire was pointed down chaffing in the low spot where water and dirt collect, ground wire needs replacement as the section was Krispy. And it can't be that easy... I dropped the nut and in classic fashion the car was "I'll keep that" WTF mf I'm trying to fix you.



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And last moment I decided arf it I'll add it on along with my custom ground strap

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One to chassis ground and the other is to the head. Fyi you can physically fit a max of three 4awg wires in the current strap, just have to do the connectors afterwards or all you can get in is two. The wire with the white band will ground to chassis

Car didn't start up... It barked to life like I had a 40v battery hooked up to it. This gives me hope that the misfires are over. But it's a Chevy, at least one CEL light has to be on constantly 😂.


Put the RTV on at 4am, currently 730 am, man I want to drive but I don't want to reseal the valve cover again because I didn't let the RTV cure long enough.
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We had spark plugs swimming in oil. Typical fix is to replace valve cover gasket with OEM (dab of RTV at the two 90* angles by the timing cover).

We had grounding issues from salt. Two main issues:

1. Several ground contacts oxidized. Removed bolts, cleaned bolts/wire rings/vehicle contact point. I read that the electrical connection should not rely on the bolt but rather the body (etc.). Some of the troublesome main grounds on the astra were below the battery box and around the fusebox.

2. The Starter. The ring connector was oxidized. But also the main ground wire which runs from the starter to the battery was corroded. That harness is expensive so we just ran a thick wire in parallel from the starter to the battery. Not a perfect solution but headlights are much brighter, battery charges well, and voltage drops are good now.

I recently discovered that sometimes aircraft mechanics use a piloted bonding brushes to prepare grounds.

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did a drive and misfire is still there, oddly the cel blinks but wont stay on this time... i'm going to see about cleaning the o2 sensor.

pick up a o2 crows foot from the mech shop monday.

exhaust work Wednesday.
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Soldered in the bypass wires for my amps internal LOC.

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Like it wasn't even messed with.

Have everything strewn across the recess of rear seat cushion. Eventually I'll have the inverter plugged in. Once that is figured I'll see to this wooden platform I speak of.

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Exhaust is done, car runs quieter and feels better, but no dice on ceasing the misfire.

:Noting this: Did a hours ride and when turned the car off the exhaust was audibly tingling. Had the leak for better part of a year n a half so maybe residual moisture still needs to escape or the rear o2's heating element is lose

Strictly down to electrical now. going to test continuity through the coil pack in the head, the coil pack connector back to ecm, and give the fuel rail harness a test too.
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Checked things out with my multi meter. Ground and power are a okay at the coil pack. As for the wiring loom I'm going to need to fashion a pin to get my multi meter ends to fit the ECM connector. But for now cleaned the connections, blew out with air and reassembled.

I can do my thing at any rpm now and it won't kick the light on but will randomly kick... Must be getting closer. I've also noticed my temp display on the radio goes in and out. So being good weather I'll take off the front bumper( 4 bolts atm, two upper rad, one either wheel liner) as the temp probe mounts on the front bumper and the said wiring harness routs below into a main connector. Going to check grounds an if anything down there could be causing a short inducing misfire.
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