Administrator, Resident Tater Salad
Not sure if they improved it or not but I am on my third pump now, the factory pump went at around 17k, the second one was somewhere in the 30k range but never started leaking, it whistled! The third one that is on now has been there for about two years and 30K miles, it may have been an improved design. Keeping my fingers crossed!I'm struggling with this myself. My daughter is home from college for the summer. Her school is 1000 miles from home, and her '12 Eco has 56,000 miles. I think I'm going to install a WP even though it's not leaking as a maintenance item. Hopefully the parts in the GM system are an improved design. Is there a better than OE aftermarket replacement?
I agree - not a complicated part. Toyota had issues with pumps on their 2.4L engines a few years back as well. I am wondering if it has something to do with the serpentine tensioner or belt routing putting stress on the pump bearing. I had been using the AC off and on on the trip down for the first time this year.Was discussing this with my Son who's in the auto supply design, engineering, testing, etc. business and we both are very puzzled by the Cruze WP issues. Granted it's a small, turbo, engine, but it's still a water pump. Something that's been around the internal combustion engine world for so many decades and how many millions of engines? Has anyone ever learned what is failing with these? And why does it keep failing?
Were you adding fluid on a regular basis? My 2012 tops off with maybe a quarter inch of antifreeze about every three months. Of course the dealership said this won't become a problem as long as it doesn't get real low. I remain skeptical.
I find this perplexing. My '92 Saturn never used AF in the 11 years we owned it. My '97 vehicle never consumed any AF in the 16 years I owned it. The radiator was always full. My '03 hasn't used any AF in the 13 years we've owned it, even after thermostat change and flush in year 10. My current '13 ride has used none either. My cars get fluids checked the first of every month. Why is it OK for the Cruze to use AF to the point it needs topping off every 3 months?My 2012 tops off with maybe a quarter inch of antifreeze about every three months. Of course the dealership said this won't become a problem as long as it doesn't get real low. I remain skeptical.
No, almost never - a small top up a couple months ago for fluid that was maybe 1/2" below where it was 3 years ago. It hadn't dropped since then until now, when the tank is completely empty.Were you adding fluid on a regular basis? My 2012 tops off with maybe a quarter inch of antifreeze about every three months. Of course the dealership said this won't become a problem as long as it doesn't get real low. I remain skeptical.
Not really. Like I said, mine went without warning. No noises, no coolant loss. The pulley doesn't look like it's doing anything weird. It's just a good thing to check regularly.Hey ya'll. I have about 80k on my Cruze, and haven't had a problem with the WP yet. I was just wondering how will I know if it is going bad? I am about to drive from Illinois to Seattle in a week and don't want to encounter any problems. The levels in the reservoir look normal and I haven't noticed any leaks. Is there a way to test it to make sure its good?
Other than a 'I am told updated in some way' pump, the TTY bolt torque spec has been changed three times.....most recent about a year ago.
Whatever was in the printed manual no longer applies and the newest specs are shown on GM global.
Requires the use of a rather high tech torque wrench that measures degrees of travel after the specified torque is met......(inch pounds.)
Wikipedia.and what is this torque to yield?
Certainly know what toque to yield to means, been dealing with this since aluminum replaced cast iron in engine heads. Another more accurate statement on these bolts are overpriced and throwaway. And the solution they came up with to attempt to keep the head gasket tight when slapping on an aluminum head that has seven times the thermal expansion rate of the cast iron engine block it was installed on. Not to mention with even minor engine over heating, this head can crack. New problems that were never problems before.Wikipedia.
In practical terms, it's a single-use bolt. You loosen it, you replace it. Torquing it down involves tightening it to to a specific torque, and then turning it a certain number of degrees past that. You'll notice that spec throughout your Cruze manual - something like "10 ft lbs + 30 degrees".
You're going to have to add a torque angle meter to your toolbox.
Or, you could go for the tried and true method - toque it until it breaks, then back off half a turn.
I'd like to see Robbie's recommendation for tools, since I need to get one as well.