Well the car is scheduled for another visit to the service department wednesday this makes the 12th one in under a year and a half. GM called me today and said they want to do a GM buy back and offered me a msrp of $27,000 which sounds reasonable until they start adding on all the additional stuff. They want me to pay $4000 since I put 20,000 miles on the vehicle seems a little outrageous but it gets even better, they want me to eat the $1,332 registration fee the $475 title/license fee not to mention the $3,800 I spent on the extended warranty/tire protection/ etc. This seems outrageous since they sold me a lemon car does anyone have any experience working with this? It honestly seems like I not only got screwed by buying a lemon but they're trying to screw me a second time.
Need some advice with GM Buy back program
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It was purchased through the dealer but it is not directly through GM. I feel the title/registration fees should be reimbursed am I in the wrong here?
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1,087 Posts
I had a prior buyback, it took a lawyer to make them do it. The lawyer I used charged their fees to GM. It is reasonable for them to deduct some for mileage since that was use of the car. The registration was not charged by GM, your State is ripping you off there. I think you need to take up the extended warranty with the company directly, typically some prorated refund is possible. I would advise against ever buying such a warranty.. you'd be better off to take that money and keep it in savings just in case and most often you'll never need it.
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Registration, title, license fees are not collected by GM, so......that's the downside of a buyback.
You are paying $.05 per mile for usage....that is not abnormal.
The aftermarket service contract is between you and the carrier......the dealer may be able to help since they market the program.
That one item is the only thing I see you getting some kind of a refund for.
Buybacks are not a pleasant experience.....been there, done that.
Rob
You are paying $.05 per mile for usage....that is not abnormal.
The aftermarket service contract is between you and the carrier......the dealer may be able to help since they market the program.
That one item is the only thing I see you getting some kind of a refund for.
Buybacks are not a pleasant experience.....been there, done that.
Rob
Am I wrong to think I shouldn't have to pay registration twice because they sold me a bad car? It just doesn't seem right to me, I'm going to try talking to the dealership/GM to see if they will take that fee out of the mileage cost or add it to the MSRP I don't think that's unreasonable. I shouldn't have to pay more for their screw up :\
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25,595 Posts
Since you have to register annually and you've had the car for over a year the first year's registration is entirely on you. You may be able to get GM to cover the unused part of the second year. Also, check with your state DMV on this as many states have an unadvertised "proration" for partial year registrations that are designed specifically for situations where you no longer have the car.
Each state has different registration laws/fees......you state sounds somewhat draconian IMO.
If you are buying another car from the same dealer they could/should consider removing their documentation fee if one was applied. I'm guessing that is part of the $475.00 fee you brought up.
The $1332.00 fee......Well, if you were in Illinois that would have been the sales tax and it would be (or a large portion would be) applied to the replacement car, again, only if the replacement is coming from the same dealer.
If you are not buying another car from that dealer then you could try to get G.M. to sweeten the deal if you bring up the fact this financial loss would not have happened if the car had been 'fit for use'......not your fault the vehicle did not perform as advertised.
No yelling though.....you know, the old 'you get more with sugar' thing.
Good luck!
Rob
Ah yeah I was reading it wrong Iowa charges a 5% tax on new cars sold maybe there's something I can do to get them to offset that :\. Thanks for your advice.
Ah Iowa has a 5% sales tax on new cars I was reading my invoice wrong I wonder if there's a way to get it waived on the next car.
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3,086 Posts
you used 20,000 miles of the cars life....theres a cost to that.
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2,217 Posts
First sorry you have a lemon car, but from what I read I thin GM is being very fair with you. Registration fees vary state to state....take the deal and move on.
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5,637 Posts
[h=1]States That Allow Trade-in Tax Credit[/h]
One major benefit to trading-in your used car is most States give you a tax credit when purchasing a new car.For example, if your new car costs $20,000 and you have a trade-in worth $5,000, then you only have to pay sales tax on $15,000. If your sales tax rate is 10%, you're looking at savings of $500 in this particular case.
The following states currently allow a tax credit on your trade-in as of January 2011:
* The Potential Savings is based on a trade-in worth $5,000
The only states that DO NOT currently give a tax credit as of January 2011 are:
California
District of Columbia
Hawaii
Kentucky
Maryland
Michigan
Montana
Virginia
If you live in one of these states, you have more incentive to sell your car to a private party.
One major benefit to trading-in your used car is most States give you a tax credit when purchasing a new car.For example, if your new car costs $20,000 and you have a trade-in worth $5,000, then you only have to pay sales tax on $15,000. If your sales tax rate is 10%, you're looking at savings of $500 in this particular case.
The following states currently allow a tax credit on your trade-in as of January 2011:
* The Potential Savings is based on a trade-in worth $5,000
| State | Maximum Tax Rate | Potential Savings * |
| Alabama | 10.5 | $525 |
| Alaska | 7.5 | $375 |
| Arizona | 11.73 | $587 |
| Arkansas | 11 | $550 |
| Colorado | 10.4 | $520 |
| Connecticut | 6 | $300 |
| Delaware | 0 | $0 |
| Florida | 7.5 | $375 |
| Georgia | 8 | $400 |
| Idaho | 8.5 | $425 |
| Illinois | 10 | $500 |
| Indiana | 7 | $350 |
| Iowa | 7 | $350 |
| Kansas | 9.8 | $490 |
| Louisiana | 11 | $550 |
| Maine | 5 | $250 |
| Massachusetts | 6.25 | $313 |
| Minnesota | 7.88 | $394 |
| Mississippi | 7.25 | $363 |
| Missouri | 10.49 | $525 |
| Nebraska | 7 | $350 |
| Nevada | 8.1 | $405 |
| New Hampshire | 0 | $0 |
| New Jersey | 7 | $350 |
| New Mexico | 8.69 | $435 |
| New York | 8.88 | $444 |
| North Carolina | 8.25 | $413 |
| North Dakota | 7.5 | $375 |
| Ohio | 7.75 | $388 |
| Oklahoma | 11 | $550 |
| Oregon | 0 | $0 |
| Pennsylvania | 8 | $400 |
| Rhode Island | 7 | $350 |
| South Carolina | 9 | $450 |
| South Dakota | 6 | $300 |
| Tennessee | 9.75 | $488 |
| Texas | 6.25 | $312 |
| Utah | 8.35 | $418 |
| Vermont | 7 | $350 |
| Washington | 9.5 | $475 |
| West Virginia | 6 | $300 |
| Wisconsin | 5.6 | $280 |
| Wyoming | 6 | $300 |
California
District of Columbia
Hawaii
Kentucky
Maryland
Michigan
Montana
Virginia
If you live in one of these states, you have more incentive to sell your car to a private party.
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17,889 Posts
Honestly that sounds pretty reasonable. I started down the buyback path before deciding that I just didn't want to deal with all the crap anymore.
Perhaps the dealer could work with you if you buy another car from them to transfer or refund the extended warranty contract, or part of it.
Perhaps the dealer could work with you if you buy another car from them to transfer or refund the extended warranty contract, or part of it.
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1,226 Posts
It sucks that you have to go through a buy back and that you had so many problems, but you still got 1.5 years and 20K miles of use out of the car. You should try to negotiate the value of that time, but you shouldn't expect to get it for free. Maybe you could figure out how many miles were driven while you had problems, or in driving to the dealership, and ask them to pay for those.
The registration/title/license fees are also not on GM. Like a previous person said, you might be able to negotiate for the unused portion of your current registration, and maybe even for the time it was in the shop. And the warranty is not on GM. You purchased that yourself. You should see if the warranty company will give you a prorated refund.
I personally think you are expecting a lot. Why don't you also ask them to refund all the gas you used?
The registration/title/license fees are also not on GM. Like a previous person said, you might be able to negotiate for the unused portion of your current registration, and maybe even for the time it was in the shop. And the warranty is not on GM. You purchased that yourself. You should see if the warranty company will give you a prorated refund.
I personally think you are expecting a lot. Why don't you also ask them to refund all the gas you used?
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2,217 Posts
After thinking about this a little. The more you come across in a reasonable business friendly with the tone of a consumer that is frustrated by the bad experience but want to work out the details will go a long way. In other words, present your case, especially on warranty and ask them to help make this a better experience for you and let's move forward together.
Statutorily, what they are offering is consistent with the Lemon Law in my state. There's always a mileage deduction ( wear and tear) on lemon law cars. The other items would have to be paid by you regardless of whether you purchased a lemon or not. That includes an extended warranty which was not GMs decision. Unused portion of extended warranty is refundable as well.
Btw! You're the third person I know of on this forum who's lemon lawed a CTD. The other so don't come around anymore.
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320 Posts
Most of those warranty companies will let you cancel at any time and pro rate a refund depending on how many months you used. By the time you get the refund for that, the rest of the deal doesn't sound bad at all. They're basically saying that your use of the vehicle for two years or however long you've had it, dropped the value by 4,000. Which sounds very reasonable to me.
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104 Posts
I am having my 2015 Durango RT being bought back by Chrysler as we speak.
I got a lawyer...they billed Chrysler $3000. Chrysler is paying me back the full purchase price, the Nevada sales tax, Nevada registration, minus 1750miles of usage (about $750 bucks).
It was painless. Sent them the original purchase agreement, the copy of the registration and the 7 Dealer repair orders.
Don't let them cheat you on the registration.
I got a lawyer...they billed Chrysler $3000. Chrysler is paying me back the full purchase price, the Nevada sales tax, Nevada registration, minus 1750miles of usage (about $750 bucks).
It was painless. Sent them the original purchase agreement, the copy of the registration and the 7 Dealer repair orders.
Don't let them cheat you on the registration.
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3,177 Posts
Curious as to all the issues you were having to get GM to finally agree to doing a buy back? Unfortunately, I have a feeling I might have to go down this road myself.
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