[Chris Tobin]

Honestly it looks like you have a good grasp on the project. I assume you are doing it on the car, if so you won't need to bleed the brakes after, but it leaves you open for issues with overspray. Be sure to mask EVERYTHING very well including the suspension components as well as the wheel wells and fenders as overspray can travel a decent way while still wet. Also be sure to support the caliper by hanging it on an old wire coat hanger or something like that, do not let it hang by the brake hose unsupported.

Read and follow the directions on the labels, I am not sure if they recommend primer for the caliper paint or not, but make sure they are compatible if they do and follow the timing indications for coating and recoating as well as dry times. And be sure to get everything as clean as possible.

 

[aaron.terveen]

Honestly it looks like you have a good grasp on the project. I assume you are doing it on the car, if so you won't need to bleed the brakes after, but it leaves you open for issues with overspray. Be sure to mask EVERYTHING very well including the suspension components as well as the wheel wells and fenders as overspray can travel a decent way while still wet. Also be sure to support the caliper by hanging it on an old wire coat hanger or something like that, do not let it hang by the brake hose unsupported.

Read and follow the directions on the labels, I am not sure if they recommend primer for the caliper paint or not, but make sure they are compatible if they do and follow the timing indications for coating and recoating as well as dry times. And be sure to get everything as clean as possible.

Don't put primer on them?

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[Merc6]

Don't put primer on them?

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I never used primer on my brake projects. Even if you do leave the caliper attached to the brake lines I still say take the time to pull the brackets and paint it off the car. I want to do this to my car but it's leased and I'm not dead set on buying it out yet.

 

[Chris Tobin]

Don't put primer on them?

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Read the directions on the caliper paint can. If they recommend primer, use it, if not, don't.

 

[Chris Tobin]

I never used primer on my brake projects. Even if you do leave the caliper attached to the brake lines I still say take the time to pull the brackets and paint it off the car. I want to do this to my car but it's leased and I'm not dead set on buying it out yet.

For sure take them off the rotors and mounts to paint them, but do not hang them by the brake line, use a coat hanger or something similar to support the caliper. And mask EVERYTHING in the area carefully so the paint does not get ANYWHERE you DONT want it!!!

Something cosmetic like painting the calipers should not hurt you much if at all on a lease. I'd think of things like tinted windows, pinstripes and such in the same category...

 

[aaron.terveen]

I plan on using a hanger, ty!

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[Merc6]

For sure take them off the rotors and mounts to paint them, but do not hang them by the brake line, use a coat hanger or something similar to support the caliper. And mask EVERYTHING in the area carefully so the paint does not get ANYWHERE you DONT want it!!!

Something cosmetic like painting the calipers should not hurt you much if at all on a lease. I'd think of things like tinted windows, pinstripes and such in the same category...

Yes that's what I meant by still attached to the line vs bleeding the whole system and complete removal.

 

[evo77]

Thought about using a brush on paint?

It cost more but its much easier to use and avoids overspray and extra masking.

G2 is the popular brand. Self leveling and high gloss and claims more durability over any rattle can paint. Rustoleum also makes a red brush on paint.

 

[NickD]

Major question I would have is what type of paint to use. Painted the calipers and in particular the torque plates a very long time ago, gloss back was good enough for me, used Valspar exterior hard enamel in a spray can using CFC's as the propellant, still looks like new.

With my Cruze tried Rustoleum 900*F brake paint, and I sure know how to get parts super clean, washed off in a couple of months. Was in a spray can, could not find it in a can, CFC's are history now, using propane as a propellant, with a match, makes a nice torch. Belief it also affects the durability of the paint, but I am not a chemist.

Reason for painting was not for looks, but to keep the darn thing from rusting away from all this darn road salt.

If you do remove your calipers for painting, make sure you put a block of wood in front of your seat and place a stick to hold down your brake pedal while the engine is running so your power brakes are active. This closes off the bleed to your brakes within the master cylinder. If you don't, all of your fluid will leak out and will get air in your ABS that you will never get out. Unless you have a GM Tech II scanner with the ABS module to activate the ABS pump, can't hot wire these anymore.

Shop manual says only for a few seconds to activate that pump, whatever this means, too long and you will burn that tiny little motor up. Not making this up, in the shop manual.

 

[Blasirl]

Yes that's what I meant by still attached to the line vs bleeding the whole system and complete removal.

This is not cheaper, but it is reversible

.

 

[Blasirl]

As @Chris Tobin says - hang it!

 

[turboGP1966]

Rattle Can or Brush-on?

Ive done the rattle can and the epoxy brush-on stuff, can't say there was much difference one side or the other. I painted mine on the car, got lite-weight plastic drop clothes and masked the beejeezies outta the spindle, brackets, etc and sprayed it on. DO NOT use primer unless called for, primers are not heat rated and may smoke or peel if subject to long downgrades or track days. I've never had any issues either way. Yes, I get that every nook and crannie wont be covered, but unless you are removing your wheels for a show with mirrors underneath the chassis, no one else will ever know the difference. I did mine RED also, BTW, and they look great with the factory 17"s. Just upgraded the front to PowerStop cross drilled / slotteds and hi-perf PowerStop carbon-fibre/ceramic pads - $149 from Summit Racing. Awesome stopping power, great looks.

 

[Blasirl]

Ive done the rattle can and the epoxy brush-on stuff, can't say there was much difference one side or the other. I painted mine on the car, got lite-weight plastic drop clothes and masked the beejeezies outta the spindle, brackets, etc and sprayed it on. DO NOT use primer unless called for, primers are not heat rated and may smoke or peel if subject to long downgrades or track days. I've never had any issues either way. Yes, I get that every nook and crannie wont be covered, but unless you are removing your wheels for a show with mirrors underneath the chassis, no one else will ever know the difference. I did mine RED also, BTW, and they look great with the factory 17"s. Just upgraded the front to PowerStop cross drilled / slotteds and hi-perf PowerStop carbon-fibre/ceramic pads - $149 from Summit Racing. Awesome stopping power, great looks.

They do look great and for racing applications where you need the extra cooling or dust removal they are good, but for every day driving I would stick with high carbon non drilled or slotted rotors myself as they provide more stopping force/friction not sure what word to use, but they stop better.

 

[aaron.terveen]

Brake damper I am told. Is it even worth taking it off to look like this, & how?

I was going for this look!

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[NickD]

Anyone that has any good help, HELP!

Do I need any special tools to paint my brake calipers red?

I'm hoping to just take off the two bolts, brush sand it, spray caliper cleaner on it, tape it off, prime it, & put 2 coats of red caliper paint on it. I'll make sure to NOT get ANY primer or paint where I don't want it.

I have to get the brushes yet too!

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Thank you for that tip on VHT Caliper paints, tells me I have been going to the wrong stores. Has good reviews and hopefully lasts a lot longer than Rustoleum.

Feel I would spend a bit more time, not to paint that rubber boot on the caliper guide pins, that has got to be free to move. As are the levers and the rear calipers, and the piston boots.

Kind of like the old days better when I could take all of my brake parts plus others to my plant, after hours and use all of their cleaning and electroplating equipment. Until our lovely EPA banned electroplating in MY country, was back in the 80's, didn't write down the exact date.

Paint seems to be the only other choice while we still can buy it.

 

[Tomko]

Ceramic caliper paint.

Eastwood Ceramic Brake Caliper Paints - Automotive Paint Colors - Eastwood

 

[aaron.terveen]

Is there a big chain, store, that carries "VHT"?

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[aaron.terveen]

Got it done! And there's a chain store...not needed though!

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[aaron.terveen]

Calipers look GREAT!

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