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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone. Sorry if this is typical post but was looking at buying a 2012 Cruze LTZ and was wondering if there's anything I should look out for as far as any known issues?

Thanks
 

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Make sure you know the provenance of the vehicle.

We just had a guy on here who bought a former daily rental and then promptly blew his engine. Looks like it never had its oil and filter changed.

Exercising this due diligence pretty much applies to any vehicle you didn't watch roll off the transport truck.
 

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Hey everyone. Sorry if this is typical post but was looking at buying a 2012 Cruze LTZ and was wondering if there's anything I should look out for as far as any known issues?

Thanks
Current mileage, location are useful too.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Wow that stinks bad.

Make sure you know the provenance of the vehicle.

We just had a guy on here who bought a former daily rental and then promptly blew his engine. Looks like it never had its oil and filter changed.

Exercising this due diligence pretty much applies to any vehicle you didn't watch roll off the transport truck.
 

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Some of the cars weaknesses have warranty extensions.

There was a high water pump failure rate.....now warranteed for 10yrs/150k (I think I'm right on the miles).
Same for negative battery cables....loss of radio, dash lights flashing, DIC memory loss......same warranty extension.

Get the 'In Service' date.....the car has a powertrain warranty for 5yrs/100k miles.....that is engine and trans......you likely have about a year remaining.

If you can, consider putting a GM extended used car warranty on it.... I tend to recommend it......these are highly negotiable......be certain it is a GM product though....many dealers sell a aftermarket program that has many ways to keep from paying a claim.

My Cruze, also a 2012 eco, has essentially been trouble free......you are asking a forum though and as such, folks having problems are over represented......so try not to read too much into some of the posts.

Depending on where you are in Kentucky, the car may not have been exposed to much road salt.....a good thing for any car.
We have many posters with well over 100k.....no serious issues.....I am not afraid to recommend the car if you can determine if it has had reasonable maintenance.

Rob
 

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Ha, this brings me back to the good old days, the number of vehicles I had purchased for under a hundred bucks, most in like new condition that only required a buck to repair. One that stands out in my mind was a 52 DeSoto, showroom condition, new tires, but had AT problems, got that for a hundred bucks. Needed a new synchro that costs me a buck and five hours work to make it perfect.

Sold that for 400 bucks for a 54 Olds fully customized, but need a major engine overhaul, could to that back then for less than a hundred bucks, new pistons, valves everything.

Today, its buying someone else's problems so really have to be careful, have no idea how it was maintained or driven, and even doing the work by yourself, the cost of parts is outrageous.

Have a 2012 2LT that I purchased new, only has 42K miles on it now, but the bumper to bumper warranty is in the history books, and only eight months left on the PT warranty. But know it was driven very carefully and very well maintained. Have no thoughts of trading it in.

So why was this 2012 LTZ traded in? How was it driven and maintained? What's the pricetag on it, some dealers go nuts. Just way too many variables, any modifications? Brakes pass the safety test as long as the wear indicators are not rubbing, OE tires if still on, are worn, already up to a thousand bucks only going this far. Rear calipers are extremely expensive to replace if you can't do this by yourself.

With this new stuff, after checking out a used vehicle myself, only guy I trust, takes me a couple of days to look it over, and just add up the parts it needs. 9 times out of 10, cheaper to buy new.

Ha, would you pay 367 bucks for a new Honda engine for a lawn mower that you only paid 220 bucks for? This is how crazy this world has become. Kid's transmission went out on his rotor tiller, 620 bucks for a replacement on a 720 buck tiller? Well is dad took it all apart for him, press fit crap, have the tools, so he got by for 120 bucks. But if he had to pay for labor, cheaper to buy a new one.

Just one more example, 260 bucks for a fuel pump for the Cruze and this is if you find the lowest web price and replace it yourself, at the dealer, can cost over a thousand. They don't last as long if the last guy drove the tank on empty or even used E10 or even tried E85. How do you know this? And this is just one example.
 

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If it's like mine 90% of the records are dealer searchable. Even if they have 0 records they should have something for what they did to ready the car for sale. Depending on the lot especially a random used car/buy here pay here that's gonna be a complete lie anyways. My one used car that had "all service done recently" had a rats nest in the air box when I decided to toss in a cheap wally world Fram in the event they didn't change it. I also recommend a warranty that acts like a bumper to bumper as much as possible. Most people go though ownership and never use them. Me on the other hand, I used it a few times here and there.

I would say change engine oil right away and as soon as you get a chance, spark plugs and auto trans fluids next.

Turn on the heat and see if you can smell coolant when the car warms up.
 

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Thank you for the replies. I haven't went in to see the car yet but I plan on it tomorrow.

Ok I'll try and find out. Whats the reasoning behind this?
There were several running changes made during the 2012 model year.....the later builds have the updates......just a method of getting 'best of breed'.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
There were several running changes made during the 2012 model year.....the later builds have the updates......just a method of getting 'best of breed'.

Rob
Thanks again I will get the build date and hopefully it is after June.

I really hate, as most do, buying something that you don't know if it has been maintained. I guess it's a roll of the dice unless you luck out and find one that has records of the maintenance.

Thanks again everyone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well I haven't been able to go look at the car yet but I did call checking on the build date. It was April. Is that a deal breaker?
 

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Take it for a long enough test drive to make sure you like the automatic transmission. The one in my leased 2012 LS was horrible. Dealer let me trade it in after one year and I took out a manual shift 2013 LS with a new 39 month lease. Turn in date is fast approaching. Have had zero problems and I still love rowing my own gears, even at my advanced age.
 

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I would also suggest either a car fax report or something similar to verify whether or not the car was a rental unit, as well as whether or not it was a salvage/rebuild title in another state then switched in Kentucky to try and cover that up. It shouldn't be legal, but some states still allow it to happen. Maybe you could find a KILLER deal on a new '14 diesel if you were so inclined. There are still a few out there believe it or not and the dealers really want to get them off their lots! Just my 2 Lincoln heads worth
 

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Welcome to the forum! I know buying a car can be really exciting, but it's a good idea to ask the sales guys or anyone else around you to leave while you inspect the vehicle thoroughly. It's good to do it when you're focused and not distracted. A good visual inspection catches many red flags, check the oil and look around the engine bay for signs of leaks. Keep us updated, and good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks everyone. I did get to test drive it today but am going back tomorrow to talk to the salesmen that I have been talking to on the phone. He wasn't there today.

The car from what little I looked at today looks new inside and out. The only thing I did notice that it really didn't have the pep I was expecting.

Anyways, I'll find out more tomorrow.

Thanks
 

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Rolld, run the cabin heater on high in all vent positions for several minutes. You want the hottest air you can get to come out of the vents. Your nose will tell you if the car has the problem with the stinky HVAC box grease.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Will do. If I do smell something then what?

Thanks

Rolld, run the cabin heater on high in all vent positions for several minutes. You want the hottest air you can get to come out of the vents. Your nose will tell you if the car has the problem with the stinky HVAC box grease.
 

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You'll get more pep with a CAI and a tune. Plugs might also need re-gapped. There are a LOT of threads on here to peruse for ways to get the performance boosts. Best of luck.
 
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