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The ECO is a 1.4T. Us Diesels run a 2.0 CTD. What exactly are you driving?
 

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so I have a question because I can see that some of you diesel guys are geeking out on oils... lol.... I purchased my ECO 2.0 in 2014, and other than the oil that came with it from the dealer I have not wasted my time and money going to the dealer to buy their DEXOS2 oil. I see the huge list of compatible oils and that's great.... but my question is this: I've been using either Rotella T6 or Mobile1 full syn for all of my 89,000 miles. I like Rotella because it resists the acidic buildup in the oil and I can always find it on amazon or Walmart on the cheap In the gallon jugs. I have not noticed any faults from this oil, and a steady long life between oil changes. I did notice that the Rotella T6 gave between 1-2 months longer between oil changes when compared to the GM DEXOS.... but maybe I just drove it gently during that period, I'm no willing to purchase DEXOS rom the dealer at their prices.
in your guys opinion or that of science..... what are the disadvantages of me running Rotella T6 /Mobile 1?
you dont have to use dexos2

you can use acea c3 compatible oils, they are plentiful

theyre low ash, specifically made for emissions systems....not using this type oil, youll clog your dpf sooner.

in what way did it give you 2 mos more life?
 

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you dont have to use dexos2

you can use acea c3 compatible oils, they are plentiful

theyre low ash, specifically made for emissions systems....not using this type oil, youll clog your dpf sooner.

in what way did it give you 2 mos more life?
Like I said, I only used DEXOS2 from the dealership once in 89,000 miles. my oil from the factory lasted about 5 months according to the computer. using Rotella the computer pushes the oil life out about 6-7 months. but that's just the computer, its not doing an oil analysis and giving a breakdown on the oil. only based on the cars computer is it lasting 1-2 months longer. where would I go to get a oil sample analyzed? that would be interesting to do a side by side comparison.
also, how would your oil type end up clogging your DPF unless your turbo is passing oil into the exhaust? all my diesel experience is Military related, we do not use DPF,DEF, or any exhaust sensors so that aspect is new to me. sh**, we use low grade 15w-40 in our motors and they are all turbo
 

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Like I said, I only used DEXOS2 from the dealership once in 89,000 miles. my oil from the factory lasted about 5 months according to the computer. using Rotella the computer pushes the oil life out about 6-7 months. but that's just the computer, its not doing an oil analysis and giving a breakdown on the oil. only based on the cars computer is it lasting 1-2 months longer. where would I go to get a oil sample analyzed? that would be interesting to do a side by side comparison.
also, how would your oil type end up clogging your DPF unless your turbo is passing oil into the exhaust? all my diesel experience is Military related, we do not use DPF,DEF, or any exhaust sensors so that aspect is new to me. sh**, we use low grade 15w-40 in our motors and they are all turbo
yeah the oil life monitor in the car is just an algorithm, theres no sensor or anything testing the oil quality, you can reset the OLM and not change the oil and the monitor wont notice.

certain additives in oil create more ash than others, the specific class of oil specified for all dpf equipped machines have the additives that are lower in ash producing additives, so they create less work for the dpf...its just part of the combustion process.
 

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yeah the oil life monitor in the car is just an algorithm, theres no sensor or anything testing the oil quality, you can reset the OLM and not change the oil and the monitor wont notice..
Yeah, it's going based on ambient temp, IAT, coolant temp, driving styles/routes/etc. It doesn't change due to different oil.
 

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Like I said, I only used DEXOS2 from the dealership once in 89,000 miles. my oil from the factory lasted about 5 months according to the computer. using Rotella the computer pushes the oil life out about 6-7 months. but that's just the computer, its not doing an oil analysis and giving a breakdown on the oil. only based on the cars computer is it lasting 1-2 months longer. where would I go to get a oil sample analyzed? that would be interesting to do a side by side comparison.
also, how would your oil type end up clogging your DPF unless your turbo is passing oil into the exhaust? all my diesel experience is Military related, we do not use DPF,DEF, or any exhaust sensors so that aspect is new to me. sh**, we use low grade 15w-40 in our motors and they are all turbo
Even modern Rotella oil is typically going to be "emission system friendly" or have "emission system protection". And as others have pointed out, that just means low sulphated ash content in the oil to protect the DPF. If you have an old bottle of it laying around look for something about low emissions or emission protection.

There is oil that gets into the combustion chamber, either passing by the rings or through the PCV system which vents back into the induction system. Look LSPI issues that Turbo GDI engines are having. That is 100% caused by oil in the combustion chamber, so much in fact that they had to change the oil specs to combat it. And vendors like Valvoline are now making oil specifically targeting reduced buildup on intake valves due to oil buildup.

Now, back to the Rotella oil. Because that oil has lower sulphated ash content, it's obviously not causing problems right now, but long term it could if it is clogging up the DPF due to having too much sulphated ash. The specs on that oil is <1.0% by weight where these cars require <0.8% by weight to meet the Dexos2/ACEA C3 spec. Over time that oil will cause DPF to clog being <1.0% sulphated ash is very close to regular oil.

Additionally, using 15w40 may provide good protection, but you're probably losing some MPG than you would running 5W30. Considering you can buy Pennzoil 5W30 Dexos2 at WalMart for $22, I don't see a reason for anyone to not use the correct oil in these.
 

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another question...... whats the big deal if the DPF gets "clogged" or "dirty"... isn't that what the DEF and the cleaning cycle is for? does this "filter" wear out?
 

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another question...... whats the big deal if the DPF gets "clogged" or "dirty"... isn't that what the DEF and the cleaning cycle is for? does this "filter" wear out?
Short answer...higher ash content can potentially plug the DPF to the point where an “Active Regen” will no longer clean the DPF. This results in a trip to the dealership for an expensive “Forced Regen”.

Long answer here: (courtesy of Wikipedia)

DPF Maintenance

Filters require more maintenance than catalytic converters. Ash, a byproduct of oil consumption from normal engine operation, builds up in the filter as it cannot be converted into a gas and pass through the walls of the filter. This increases the pressure before the filter. Warnings are given to the driver before filter restriction causes an issue with drive-ability or damage to the engine or filter develop. Regular filter maintenance is a necessity.[SUP][4][/SUP]
DPF filters go through a regeneration process which removes this soot and lowers the filter pressure. There are three types of regeneration: passive, active, and forced. Passive regeneration takes place normally while driving, when engine load and vehicle drive-cycle create temperatures that are high enough to regenerate the soot buildup on the DPF walls. Active regeneration happens while the vehicle is in use, when low engine load and lower exhaust gas temperatures inhibit the naturally occurring passive regeneration. Sensors upsteam and downstream of the DPF (or a differential pressure sensor) provide readings that initiate a metered addition of fuel into the exhaust stream. There are two methods to inject fuel, either downstream injection directly into the exhaust stream, downstream of the turbo, or fuel injection into the engine cylinders on the exhaust stroke. This fuel and exhaust gas mixture passes thru the Diesel Oxidation Catalyst (DOC) creating temperatures high enough to burn off the accumulated soot. Once the pressure drop across the DPF lowers to a calculated value, the process ends, until the soot accumulation builds up again. This works well for vehicles that drive longer distances with few stops compared to those that perform short trips with many starts and stops. If the filter develops too much pressure then the last type of regeneration must be used - a forced regeneration. This can be accomplished in two ways. The Vehicle operator can initiate the regeneration via a dashboard mounted switch. Various signal interlocks, such as park brake applied, transmission in neutral, engine coolant temperature, and an absence of engine related fault codes are required (vary by OEM and application) for this process to initiate. When the soot accumulation reaches a level that is potentially damaging to the engine or the exhaust system, the solution involves a garage using a computer program to run a regeneration of the DPF manually.
 

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I recently read that GM is now recommending 0W-40 ESP Dexos 2 in all of their high end motors. Mobil 1 said that they are going to widely release this to the market soon. For guys without a WalMart close by, or if Pennzoil ever pulls their Euro L, this oil would make a good easy-to-find replacement. I may even switch to it during Winter months.
 

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I wonder if they will suggest that for the CTD. They seem to only suggest an xW-30.

The owner's manual says:

"Viscosity GradeSAE 5W-30 is the best viscositygrade for the vehicle.* Do not useother viscosity grade oils such asSAE 10W-30, 10W-40, or 20W-50.* Cold Temperature Operation: In anarea of extreme cold, where thetemperature falls below −29°C(−20°F), an SAE 0W-30 oil may beused. An oil of this viscosity gradewill provide easier cold starting forthe engine at extremely lowtemperatures."

Will be interesting to see!
 

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I wonder if they will suggest that for the CTD. They seem to only suggest an xW-30.

The owner's manual says:

"Viscosity GradeSAE 5W-30 is the best viscositygrade for the vehicle.* Do not useother viscosity grade oils such asSAE 10W-30, 10W-40, or 20W-50.* Cold Temperature Operation: In anarea of extreme cold, where thetemperature falls below −29°C(−20°F), an SAE 0W-30 oil may beused. An oil of this viscosity gradewill provide easier cold starting forthe engine at extremely lowtemperatures."

Will be interesting to see!
Yeah, that is a good point that I did consider. The 14/15 2.0L only list 0W-30 as a low temperature viscosity to use. The newer 17/18/19 1.6L list 0W-40 as a low temperature viscosity to use.

However, I looked at the Mobil 1 0W-40 ESP technical specs viscosity @100c. It's just high enough to be SAE 40 by a few 1/10ths. SAE30 is anything 12.5 or less. This M1 stuff is a 12.9.
Now, if it were just about a SAE 50 (16.3 to 21.9) then I wouldn't, but I think it's close enough to use as a substitute for 0W-30 because it's so close.

And considering GM says 5W-30 is a substitute in the Vette's (street use) I think they are basically acknowledging this as well.
 

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Based on that it sounds like it would probably be fine to use in the Gen1s.

Like you said it's almost a SAE30

Would be interesting to try!
 

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Can’t find 1-Gallon Pennzoil Platinum Euro-L Full Synthetic 5w30 Dexos 2 at Walmart.com anymore...What the heck???

Used to find it all the time for +/- $25...any leads on other sellers close to that price?
 

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Can’t find 1-Gallon Pennzoil Platinum Euro-L Full Synthetic 5w30 Dexos 2 at Walmart.com anymore...What the heck???

Used to find it all the time for +/- $25...any leads on other sellers close to that price?
Found this deal on a 2-pack of 5-gallon jugs:

 

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Yeah, that is a good point that I did consider. The 14/15 2.0L only list 0W-30 as a low temperature viscosity to use. The newer 17/18/19 1.6L list 0W-40 as a low temperature viscosity to use.

However, I looked at the Mobil 1 0W-40 ESP technical specs viscosity @100c. It's just high enough to be SAE 40 by a few 1/10ths. SAE30 is anything 12.5 or less. This M1 stuff is a 12.9.
Now, if it were just about a SAE 50 (16.3 to 21.9) then I wouldn't, but I think it's close enough to use as a substitute for 0W-30 because it's so close.

And considering GM says 5W-30 is a substitute in the Vette's (street use) I think they are basically acknowledging this as well.
I recently purchased a 19 Cruze diesel and fully intend to use Mobil 1 ESP 0w40, exclusively. Owners manual recommends 0w40 for cooler climates, but this oil should actually be better for all climates -- cold or warm. Meets Dexos 2 specs.
 

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I recently purchased a 19 Cruze diesel and fully intend to use Mobil 1 ESP 0w40, exclusively. Owners manual recommends 0w40 for cooler climates, but this oil should actually be better for all climates -- cold or warm. Meets Dexos 2 specs.
I still haven't been able to find it for sale anywhere at a reasonable price. Know where it can be found B&M? I'm currently running 0-30 ESP that I got at Naper for $5/quart as my winter viscosity.
 
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