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What's shipping though?
They had the brake lines I needed for my Silverado $20 cheaper than anywhere else....but there was $23 shipping and they would take 2 days longer to get than from Amazon.
 

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What's shipping though?
They had the brake lines I needed for my Silverado $20 cheaper than anywhere else....but there was $23 shipping and they would take 2 days longer to get than from Amazon.
Right, but 0W-30 ESP is hard to find this affordable, even when factoring in shipping.

2 oil changes (10 qts) over the winter and 2 ACDelco filters would be $105 shipped to my house. Not bad considering that this oil is normally around $50 for 5 quarts shipped.

But what do you know, NAPA has another sale going on for their 0W-30 ESP. $5.49 quart free shipping to store. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/MOR124547?
 

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In an effort to reduce build up in the intake manifold and EGR I looked at the ash level for various Dexos2 approved oils
usually list as:
Ash, Sulfated, mass%, ASTM D874
.8 or so is usually the % listed.
I was using Pennzoil Euro L as it was mentioned by a seller as having the lowest ash content.
Saw that Mobil 1 ESP ash content is .6 so I have made the switch.
Not sure how much the ash content will affect build up but I am looking at all avenues.
Recently installed a catch can also.
Thinking about water injection as well.

Any one have mods or tips on reducing the sludge build up?

Thanks
 

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An oils ash content won’t have any effect on placque formation on the intake manifold or EGR. Oil vapor doesn’t contain any additives (ash). The hard placque you see on fouled diesel intake manifolds comes from oil vapor and soot which will harden as they mix.

Your fuel quality is the biggest factor in soot production. High cetane diesel with combustion improving additives can greatly reduce soot production, I’ve seen a reduction of 60-75% in my cars.

A filtered oil vapor recovery device like the Mann provent 200 plumbed to the PCV line and clean burning fuel will virtually eliminate all placque from the intake manifold.
 

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An oils ash content won’t have any effect on placque formation on the intake manifold or EGR. Oil vapor doesn’t contain any additives (ash). The hard placque you see on fouled diesel intake manifolds comes from oil vapor and soot which will harden as they mix.

Your fuel quality is the biggest factor in soot production. High cetane diesel with combustion improving additives can greatly reduce soot production, I’ve seen a reduction of 60-75% in my cars.

A filtered oil vapor recovery device like the Mann provent 200 plumbed to the PCV line and clean burning fuel will virtually eliminate all placque from the intake manifold.
That's really interesting because I've always (except for 4 fill ups in 4 years) ran premium diesel in my CTD. Reading the other thread about EGR I've been tempted to take it off and clean it for preventative maintenance. I think that may do that and take some pictures to see what an intake looks like running premium fuel for most of the life of the car (from 30k to 145k miles).
 

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That's really interesting because I've always (except for 4 fill ups in 4 years) ran premium diesel in my CTD. Reading the other thread about EGR I've been tempted to take it off and clean it for preventative maintenance. I think that may do that and take some pictures to see what an intake looks like running premium fuel for most of the life of the car (from 30k to 145k miles).
“Premium“ or “Top Tier” Diesel is a better product with improved properties however it’s not going to have the effects I’m talking about. I live in CA and we have the cleanest burning diesel in the country, yet the effects of combustion catalysts has been documented visually and with UOA. Specifically, fuel additives that contain Ferrocene or MMT based catalysts can have a dramatic impact on soot production. My experience comes from the impacts of MMT however all additive formulas are secret but it’s ingriendients can be deduced by multiple oil analysis reports showing Manganese which isn’t a wear metal.

I’ve read that the Mobil Synergy Supreme Diesel does contain catalysts however I’ve never used it continuously or done any testing with it.
 

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“Premium“ or “Top Tier” Diesel is a better product with improved properties however it’s not going to have the effects I’m talking about. I live in CA and we have the cleanest burning diesel in the country, yet the effects of combustion catalysts has been documented visually and with UOA. Specifically, fuel additives that contain Ferrocene or MMT based catalysts can have a dramatic impact on soot production. My experience comes from the impacts of MMT however all additive formulas are secret but it’s ingriendients can be deduced by multiple oil analysis reports showing Manganese which isn’t a wear metal.

I’ve read that the Mobil Synergy Supreme Diesel does contain catalysts however I’ve never used it continuously or done any testing with it.
I’m messaging you since it seems the thread you replied to me on got deleted. I went to multiple auto stores and couldn’t find a CK4 or CJ4 5w30 oil. Is there even one made in that viscosity? I think you recommended a different viscosity since my car is deleted but can’t look at the reply anymore. I ended up getting pennzoil platinum euro L 5w30 full synthetic motor oil since I needed an oil change.

in addition to that is there any specific fuel additives I should look at getting?
 

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I’m messaging you since it seems the thread you replied to me on got deleted. I went to multiple auto stores and couldn’t find a CK4 or CJ4 5w30 oil. Is there even one made in that viscosity? I think you recommended a different viscosity since my car is deleted but can’t look at the reply anymore. I ended up getting pennzoil platinum euro L 5w30 full synthetic motor oil since I needed an oil change.

in addition to that is there any specific fuel additives I should look at getting?
I said in the other post which was deleted, you can use diesel 10w30 and 5w40 oils in these cars. I’ve used 10w30 and 10w40 in mine, and suggested you stay away from 15w40 as it’s too heavy. There are a few CJ and CK 5w30 diesel oils, however 10w30 is much more common. 10w30 is good to -22F.

I use Amalgamated TDR-FL as a fuel additive, been using it for years. Works very well at improving combustion and controlling soot. Numerous Used Oil Analysis in different engines show it’s effects. I order 5 gallons every couple years from the manufacturer.
 

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I said in the other post which was deleted, you can use diesel 10w30 and 5w40 oils in these cars. I’ve used 10w30 and 10w40 in mine, and suggested you stay away from 15w40 as it’s too heavy. There are a few CJ and CK 5w30 diesel oils, however 10w30 is much more common. 10w30 is good to -22F.

I use Amalgamated TDR-FL as a fuel additive, been using it for years. Works very well at improving combustion and controlling soot. Numerous Used Oil Analysis in different engines show it’s effects. I order 5 gallons every couple years from the manufacturer.
Since the other thread was removed (bad information) I'm responding to this post again for any new/existing users in this thread. Do not follow this gentleman's advice unless you are deleted. If you have a stock config, use 0w-30 or 5w-30 Dexos 2 or ACEA C3 oils only.

He's going to respond to my post and say that I'm wrong, which is fine, and my response to that now is to remind people to use the oil that the owners manual tells you to use. You can find it for $25/5 quarts at Wal-Mart, and only a little more expensive online.
 

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Since the other thread was removed (bad information) I'm responding to this post again for any new/existing users in this thread. Do not follow this gentleman's advice unless you are deleted. If you have a stock config, use 0w-30 or 5w-30 Dexos 2 or ACEA C3 oils only.

He's going to respond to my post and say that I'm wrong, which is fine, and my response to that now is to remind people to use the oil that the owners manual tells you to use. You can find it for $25/5 quarts at Wal-Mart, and only a little more expensive online.
If you were part of the other discussion, you would know Mr. @Travis_cruze TD has a modified emissions system and was confused because he thought Dexos 2 and Dexos 1 Gen 2 were the same thing. In this context you are wrong, however your fear of drifting away from what the manufacturer recommends is noted.

With that said, CK-4 and CJ-4 oils protect your engine better and are capable of long drain intervals, I'm working towards 15K mile oil changes myself accompanied with oil analysis. Also worth noting is the superior soot handling and low wear metals observed with real HD diesel oils. They are superior to C3 and Dexos 2 in every way.

My 2014 Cruze and 2017 GMC Canyon Diesel both require 5w30 Dexos 2 and I've been running 10w30, 5w40 and 10w40 CJ-4 in them for over 70K miles. CJ-4 and Ck-4 are designed for ULSD and modern diesel emissions systems with DPF, EGR and SCR so 100% compatible with the Cruze, Colorado and Canyon diesels.

We're all adults and can make our own decisions. It costs $400 to clean my DPF. I'd rather use the best oil that provides the most engine protection possible and just clean out the DPF when necessary, than make a sacrifice to use C3/Dexos 2.
 

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If you were part of the other discussion, you would know Mr. @Travis_cruze TD has a modified emissions system and was confused because he thought Dexos 2 and Dexos 1 Gen 2 were the same thing. In this context you are wrong, however your fear of drifting away from what the manufacturer recommends is noted.

With that said, CK-4 and CJ-4 oils protect your engine better and are capable of long drain intervals, I'm working towards 15K mile oil changes myself accompanied with oil analysis. Also worth noting is the superior soot handling and low wear metals observed with real HD diesel oils. They are superior to C3 and Dexos 2 in every way.

My 2014 Cruze and 2017 GMC Canyon Diesel both require 5w30 Dexos 2 and I've been running 10w30, 5w40 and 10w40 CJ-4 in them for over 70K miles. CJ-4 and Ck-4 are designed for ULSD and modern diesel emissions systems with DPF, EGR and SCR so 100% compatible with the Cruze, Colorado and Canyon diesels.

We're all adults and can make our own decisions. It costs $400 to clean my DPF. I'd rather use the best oil that provides the most engine protection possible and just clean out the DPF when necessary, than make a sacrifice to use C3/Dexos 2.
After looking online and at multiple auto stores around me, I have decided to go with shell rotella T6 5w40 full synthetic motor oil that I can get for about $6/L. My plan is to do a full drain of the dexos2 to the new rotella T6 and change oil every 8k miles possibly 10k.

Are you changing the oil filter every 15k with your oil or are you doing it sooner? I am currently using the car quest premium oil filter. Will that be good for longer oil change intervals or should I get something else?
 

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After looking online and at multiple auto stores around me, I have decided to go with shell rotella T6 5w40 full synthetic motor oil that I can get for about $6/L. My plan is to do a full drain of the dexos2 to the new rotella T6 and change oil every 8k miles possibly 10k.

Are you changing the oil filter every 15k with your oil or are you doing it sooner? I am currently using the car quest premium oil filter. Will that be good for longer oil change intervals or should I get something else?
Im working my way up to 15K using oil analysis. My last was 13k and everything looked great. This one will be 14k followed by 15k. There is plenty of alkalinity with the oil I’m using to go the distance.

I only use AcDelco oil filters. No idea.
 
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