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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am getting the apparently too common "AC Off Due to High Engine Temp."
But, the temp gauge shows cold and the engine didn't seem terribly hot.

Oh, and the fan is kicking on which it rarely does otherwise.

Which do I believe? The gauge or the computer?

It is a 2013 Chevy Cruze, dated 1/13 on the door, VIN: 1G1PA5SH0D7213581.

I just replaced the thermostat and thermostat housing because it was leaking
between them significantly. It seemed to be operating normally the last 2 weeks
until this morning. We haven't lost a drop of fluid but now this!

Is there a way to tell if it is just a sensor or if it is the new thermostat
failing? Or something else failing like the ECU?

I've read that older cars just would run cold if the thermostat is stuck open
and would burn up if stuck closed but I don't know how to interpret this newer
electronic engine!
 

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I am getting the apparently too common "AC Off Due to High Engine Temp."
But, the temp gauge shows cold and the engine didn't seem terribly hot.

Oh, and the fan is kicking on which it rarely does otherwise.

Which do I believe? The gauge or the computer?

It is a 2013 Chevy Cruze, dated 1/13 on the door, VIN: 1G1PA5SH0D7213581.

I just replaced the thermostat and thermostat housing because it was leaking
between them significantly. It seemed to be operating normally the last 2 weeks
until this morning. We haven't lost a drop of fluid but now this!

Is there a way to tell if it is just a sensor or if it is the new thermostat
failing? Or something else failing like the ECU?

I've read that older cars just would run cold if the thermostat is stuck open
and would burn up if stuck closed but I don't know how to interpret this newer
electronic engine!
This might help: 2012 Cruze - Coolant sensor installation?
 

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Yeah, I have both temp sensors on order at Oreillys, one for the radiator, and the one mentioned in the linked thread that goes into the thermostat housing. I hope a sensor is all that it is, they are not expensive, even together.

Any diagnostic suggestions are welcome!
So far I have not had any issues, so I am collecting threads in case I do have issues in the future. There will be a bunch of dealer techs on probably tomorrow to give you more info.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I don't see how a car history report is going to help. My grandmother was and still is the first owner.

I also know now that it throws the error when it has been sitting long enough to be cold. Surely this must mean the new thermostat is not the fault. It must be electronic somehow.

In addition, I can see that the Dorman thermostat housing/thermostat I installed came with a new temp sensor already installed in the housing. So, it is only 2 weeks old.

It does look like to me that the wiring for the radiator sensor goes over to where the fan wiring goes. So, if the fan is automatically coming on, could this likely mean this sensor in the radiator has failed and is giving an automatic signal to the fan to run? And to the computer to complain?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Is there no way to know which sensor, radiator or thermostat housing, is feeding the idiot gauge? I cannot find this information.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Did I fix it!?! The computer doesn't complain now, the AC will turn on, and the fan runs appropriately instead of continually. The idiot gauge also work and stops right where it always used to, just a notch shy of half the dial. I hope so!

I replaced both sensors, the one in the radiator and the one into the thermostat housing. I was hoping I'd figure out which was the problem (if them) by replacing one at a time.

But, even after replacing both, nothing changed until I used my BlueDrive OBD II reader to clear the codes. If I'd known this, I would've tried clearing the codes first, and then again between replacing each sensor if needed, but, maybe you know how that hindsight thingy works!

Did I just need to clear the codes in the first place? Did I replace a failing part, and a good one, and then clear the codes to make it work? Do I have an intermittent problem that is going to rear its ugly head again? I don't know!

At least it looks like the thermostat is working perfectly for the moment. Is it possible for thermostats to work intermittently? They are simple mechanical devices, I wouldn't think so, but don't really know...
 

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The car probably was in a limp/safe mode of sorts because it didn't trust the readings from the temp sensors. Clearing the codes will tell it to reevaluate. It was likely only one of them, but should be good to go for a while now.

The thermostat is sort of electrically operated. It functions like a conventional thermostat where it opens at temp, but it also has a heater that heats the wax ring to open it at lower temps if commanded to by the ECM

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The thermostat is sort of electrically operated. It functions like a conventional thermostat where it opens at temp, but it also has a heater that heats the wax ring to open it at lower temps if commanded to by the ECM
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Thanks for the new info!

BUT, it turns out it is not fixed. It operated fine for me last night but today it is giving the error again. I will just try putting the old thermostat back in as it wasn't the thermostat that was failing, it was the plastic thermostat housing. Maybe the car doesn't like the new Dorman thermostat. If I do that, everything except the housing will be Chevy or AC Delco again. A mechanic suggested I replace the thermostat because of the age and the fact that I needed to replace the housing, maybe that has been my downfall.

Oh, something interesting I found out about AC Delco, they market two different switches, one for the thermostat housing and one for the radiator under different part numbers and at a fairly big difference in price at Oreilly's. They look identical though, and there is a reason. If you look very closely at the numbers faintly printed on the parts once out of the package, they bear the exact same part number: 55591401. I can't believe I paid almost twice as much for one of them!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So far, it seems I was right! I suspected the Dorman thermostat I installed mainly because the temp gauge seemed erratic, mostly it would take a crazy long amount of time to get up to proper operating temperature.

Now, I have replaced that thermostat with one from ACDelco and all seems normal now. No computer messages, no codes, and it is coming up to temperature quickly and on the mark like it always did in the past.

It'll take a few more weeks to be sure, but I'd suggest being suspicious of thermostats other than ACDelco, especially Dorman. However, I do like the metal Dorman thermostat housing (over the original plastic one) which is still installed and seems to be operating just fine.

If anything changes, I'll update, but I think it is fixed now.
 

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I had the same thing to happen on my daughter's '13 LTZ/RS when it was about a year old. Just happened out of the blue one cold evening while driving down the road. When she got home, I could not find any symptoms of it running hot, or a reason as to why this happened. Cleared the codes, and it has never happened again. Been almost 4 years now. I have been told that sometimes the sensors will glitch and cause this issue, but if it continued after clearing codes that it would be a bad sensor causing the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
We didn't have the problem until I fixed a coolant leak by replacing both the thermostat housing and the thermostat. I thought it was the sensors but it turns out the car didn't like the (brand new) Dorman thermostat. Clearing codes didn't solve the problem. So, I kept the housing but replaced the thermostat with ACDelco, and cleared the codes again. It has been driven nearly 200 miles now on long and short trips, AC on, AC off again, many times, and all seems to be working perfectly now.
 

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We didn't have the problem until I fixed a coolant leak by replacing both the thermostat housing and the thermostat. I thought it was the sensors but it turns out the car didn't like the (brand new) Dorman thermostat. Clearing codes didn't solve the problem. So, I kept the housing but replaced the thermostat with ACDelco, and cleared the codes again. It has been driven nearly 200 miles now on long and short trips, AC on, AC off again, many times, and all seems to be working perfectly now.

Did you by any chance take some photo's? This could be a nice "How-To:" write-up. If you do this, make it a new post. You can reference this one in it if you like though.

FYI: I think the locations are the same on a 1.4 as well.

 

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I am actually having the same exact issue with my 2011 cruze. Had the "AC off due to high engine temps"....... replaced the 2 coolant sensors (1 in thermostat housing and one in radiator), cleared codes and immediately received a P0597 code. Figured I wouldn't mess around and replaced with Dorman Thermostat and housing 902-033. Light went off (didnt need to clear codes since this was done with the battery disconnect already). Drove the car for 50-60 miles and no issue. Drove for another 30 min or so to try and get the EVAP ready for emissions test, no luck. Figured just needs more driving. Next day, drive for hour and still no EVAP ready. Wife takes care to work no issues. Wife drives home from work and temp gauge starts bouncing. AC error again, then jumps to "HIGH COOLANT TEMP" and then "ENGINE OVERHEATED - IDLE ENGINE." She drives for another few blocks and all of a sudden the messages go away and the engine temp gauge drops to one tick below center on the cool side. I pop the hood, engine seems warm but no leaks, coolant still full and nothing out of the ordinary.


What it seems like is the thermostat is staying closed and randomly releasing. Could this truly be a bad combo as you are saying? Or is it just 2 random bad Dorman thermostats? Or is there really another issue?

I drove it for another hour after messages were gone and it was fine while driving. I got caught in some traffic and it did the same thing described above. Last in total 3 min - 5 min. AC message came up, i drove a block. Engine overheat came up, drove another block. And pooooooof, all messages gone, engine temp back down. I will say the car did smell as if there was some overheating happening which leads me to believe that thermostat is sticking and once opens, all temps come back down.

This just seems really random. Also, no check engine light during any of this. No codes during any of this.
 

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I am actually having the same exact issue with my 2011 cruze. Had the "AC off due to high engine temps"....... replaced the 2 coolant sensors (1 in thermostat housing and one in radiator), cleared codes and immediately received a P0597 code. Figured I wouldn't mess around and replaced with Dorman Thermostat and housing 902-033. Light went off (didnt need to clear codes since this was done with the battery disconnect already). Drove the car for 50-60 miles and no issue. Drove for another 30 min or so to try and get the EVAP ready for emissions test, no luck. Figured just needs more driving. Next day, drive for hour and still no EVAP ready. Wife takes care to work no issues. Wife drives home from work and temp gauge starts bouncing. AC error again, then jumps to "HIGH COOLANT TEMP" and then "ENGINE OVERHEATED - IDLE ENGINE." She drives for another few blocks and all of a sudden the messages go away and the engine temp gauge drops to one tick below center on the cool side. I pop the hood, engine seems warm but no leaks, coolant still full and nothing out of the ordinary.


What it seems like is the thermostat is staying closed and randomly releasing. Could this truly be a bad combo as you are saying? Or is it just 2 random bad Dorman thermostats? Or is there really another issue?

I drove it for another hour after messages were gone and it was fine while driving. I got caught in some traffic and it did the same thing described above. Last in total 3 min - 5 min. AC message came up, i drove a block. Engine overheat came up, drove another block. And pooooooof, all messages gone, engine temp back down. I will say the car did smell as if there was some overheating happening which leads me to believe that thermostat is sticking and once opens, all temps come back down.

This just seems really random. Also, no check engine light during any of this. No codes during any of this.
Have you figured out the cause? I'm in the same boat and trying to avoid replacing more parts.
 

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Ok so we replaced one of the sensors that seemed to have taken care of it, yesterday I got the warning ac off due to high temps, no check engine light so I can’t see what code it’s throwing. Tonight on the way home I got the same message, I’m thinking maybe it’s the one by the radiator that’s going bad. Temp gauge says it’s cold like it will bounce between right above the first line of cold to the Second & then it goes back to cold. So should we replace the other sensor and see if that helps? I drive the 14 lt Model
 

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Ok so we replaced one of the sensors that seemed to have taken care of it, yesterday I got the warning ac off due to high temps, no check engine light so I can’t see what code it’s throwing. Tonight on the way home I got the same message, I’m thinking maybe it’s the one by the radiator that’s going bad. Temp gauge says it’s cold like it will bounce between right above the first line of cold to the Second & then it goes back to cold. So should we replace the other sensor and see if that helps? I drive the 14 lt Model
Replace that one and bleed the system of air (there's a bleed screw near that one)
 
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