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Yowsa! Didn't know that it was going to be one large.
 

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Ouch @Gator , is that an estimate or did you have it done??hw

strike that, I see they had it for three days.....did they at least give you a loaner??
 

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So glad my diesel has chain driven cams, ouch.
 
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The numbers are about the same as I paid when my belt was changed (I have a series 1 Korean-built diesel), albeit mine were in AUD.
 

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Chevy dealer sent me a brochure for a new 2014 Cruze diesel, knocking off $5,000 off the sticker price, plus even more on my GM card. Kicked it around for awhile, but decided I did. Ha even more glad now, because I didn't know it was using a rubber band, that's what we call these belts. Already had my share of these things for the last 35 years.



Major concerns at the time, our diesel cost of fuel was much higher here than gas, no savings there, no spare tire, and read if that tank ran dry where the spare tire should be, the engine would quit running.

Can't seem to get a straight answer if this is an interference engine or not, seems to be non-interference that would just leave you stranded, interference, not only stranded, but a lot of more addition cost in replacing a broken head, bend valve, or a piston with a hole in it, take your choice.

Problems I ran into, is not the belt, but either the tensioner or idler pulley seizing up that was the cause of the belt breaking in the first place. Call these limited lubricated ball bearings, over time, grease would dry up, hot inside that plastic shroud, bearing would seize, pop goes the belt. Also the way they were making those plastic shrouds, a lot of road debris would get inside further causing bearing and belt problems. Also could have camshaft seal leaks, oil on the belt is not good. They don't change these, but I sure did, a lot of extra work.

Ha, don't pay any attention to me on this subject, getting old and tired, but kept me in good shape changing timing belts, not only for what I had, but all my family members as well. Sure beats getting fat drinking beer and watching 22 guys trying to move a tiny football back and forth on a field.

Did get soft in around 1993, finally insulated and heated my garage, in sub-zero weather, finger tips started to crack in the cold. That was painful for the next 3-4 weeks.
 

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Chevy dealer sent me a brochure for a new 2014 Cruze diesel, knocking off $5,000 off the sticker price, plus even more on my GM card. Kicked it around for awhile, but decided I did. Ha even more glad now, because I didn't know it was using a rubber band, that's what we call these belts. Already had my share of these things for the last 35 years.



Major concerns at the time, our diesel cost of fuel was much higher here than gas, no savings there, no spare tire, and read if that tank ran dry where the spare tire should be, the engine would quit running.

Can't seem to get a straight answer if this is an interference engine or not, seems to be non-interference that would just leave you stranded, interference, not only stranded, but a lot of more addition cost in replacing a broken head, bend valve, or a piston with a hole in it, take your choice.

Problems I ran into, is not the belt, but either the tensioner or idler pulley seizing up that was the cause of the belt breaking in the first place. Call these limited lubricated ball bearings, over time, grease would dry up, hot inside that plastic shroud, bearing would seize, pop goes the belt. Also the way they were making those plastic shrouds, a lot of road debris would get inside further causing bearing and belt problems. Also could have camshaft seal leaks, oil on the belt is not good. They don't change these, but I sure did, a lot of extra work.

Ha, don't pay any attention to me on this subject, getting old and tired, but kept me in good shape changing timing belts, not only for what I had, but all my family members as well. Sure beats getting fat drinking beer and watching 22 guys trying to move a tiny football back and forth on a field.

Did get soft in around 1993, finally insulated and heated my garage, in sub-zero weather, finger tips started to crack in the cold. That was painful for the next 3-4 weeks.
Thanks for posting the pic. Do you have the breakdown of what the #'s are pointing to?
 

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No loaner Glennglenn, it was a expense I knew was coming when I bought the car so I put 10.00 a week aside for this and had the cash to pay for it. Less painful that way.
When you put it that way, it's like a total non-issue.
 

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Yeah, a $1,000 maintenance at 100,000 (or 150,000 if you're crazy!) miles adds another $0.01 per mile to your operating costs. Not terribly bad if you plan for it.
 

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Looks like they nailed you a bit on the parts. AC Delco water pump on Rock Auto is $115.79. Did not look at any of the other parts prices but they look a little high. I know, a dealership is in business to make money. But wow.

Thankfully I'll be doing this myself when the time comes. 72,000 more miles.....
 

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2014 Cruze Diesel, 2007 Cobalt, 1981 Camaro Z28, 2017 Volt
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I thought the pump was high also. They usually give me a break on parts but not this time since they were putting them on.
 

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I think they just charged the MSRP full retail price on your parts, not a mark up per say just retail. Probably adds $200 plus to the job.
 

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Not trying to be an egotist, only guy I know how to replace a timing belt correctly is me. Take the time to break the new belt in so the tension can be adjusted properly. And already mentioned replacing the camshaft seals as well.
 

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Thanks for posting the pic. Do you have the breakdown of what the #'s are pointing to?
Can find it right here:

ENGINE for 2014 Chevrolet Cruze

Ha, being as frugal as I am, get the part numbers off this or other sites like it, and do a google search to find the best price for that part, searching on ebay is a good start or even rockauto.com or Amazon to save a couple of bucks and get free shipping.

Another thing I do, is to check the country of origin on the tensioner or idler pulley, if China, press it out and throw it as far as I can. Only use bearings made in the USA, Canada, or Japan.

Another great source is alldata.com to get access to an online shop manual, Like a buck per month to get all of the specifications and procedures. Been using this even since I always buy the shop manual for the vehicle I intend to keep.

Cruze manuals are nuts, alldata has a search engine to help you find what you are looking for.

When ordering, just type in "DIY2015" to get a nice discount.
 

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I was pricing out parts on RockAuto a couple days ago, and I came to a total parts cost of around $300 for the job. As for a Serpentine Belt, I usually buy the Gates belt from RockAuto, which they have for $26, so $325 or so, plus shipping, for the parts to DIY.
 

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Another person who plans to DIY the timing belt when it comes time but don't blame a soul who pays to have it done either.

I honestly don't think $1,000 bucks of routine maintenance at 100,000 miles is that ridiculous.

Some people are so anal about total cost per miles instead of happiness per mile it's a wonder to me that they ever bought a new car in the first place!

On a side note, Gator's method of saving for the timing belt is also how people ought to approach "extended warranties". Put that cost of the warranty aside and go on vacation when you most likely don't use it! If you need it, it's there.
 
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