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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
HI guys, new to the forum and diesel cruze. I just bought the2014 Cruze last week. I bought it non running with 86k miles for $3500. I diagnosed a crank no start condition as a clogged egr. Which I believe was indeed the problem. The person I bought it from did not know how to google though and he/his mechanic just started replacing parts. He only drove the car for 1 month before breakdown and eventually selling to me. I found almost every part of the car had tool markings on it. HP fuel pump had been replaced etc etc.

After many hours of diagnosing I discovered the HP fuel pump looked new and checked timing. which turned out to be at least 4 teeth off on the cam. I bought a new timing belt and the car started right up. I got codes for cylinder 4 injector. So bought a used injector. Now it's running great.

After about 60 miles of driving I have these codes P049d, P046c, P0406, P20EE
3 of these codes are EGR. ---> I have a new EGR on the way.
1 is NOx related (I believe)

Today during a drive I got a message in the DIC "Exhaust Fluid Quality Poor" with a countdown to 65mph limit.

I'm trying my best here to salvage the Emissions system on this car. But not really sure where to go from here. I ordered the OBDLink MX+ adapter and will purchase the Torque Pro app. For the regen and monitoring capabilities.

Does anyone have suggestions for what my next move should be? I don't want to just keep dumping parts on this car at $200 per part. I did look in the def tank and the fluid is crystal clear and smells like ammonia
 

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It sound like you got lucky. The 2.0TD is an interference engine. The timing being off could have been BAD.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It sound like you got lucky. The 2.0TD is an interference engine. The timing being off could have been BAD.
Yeah, it seems to run perfectly happy. I'm trying to take it on short trips close to home until I build up trust in it. I have 140 round trip for work. I guess it's gonna sit until I get this death clock to stop counting. I don't think it took any damage from the timing being off.

I found on Amazon a "used" nox downstream sensor. It's a prime item and I read the description it says box is damaged. May have cosmetic damage. I ordered it. It was $45 down from $225. So I put that in as I've seen several posts about that sensor in particular.
 

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Take a look at your vacuum hoses and check out how much vacuum you are making. If your Vacuum pump is leaking a little oil, it will ruin some of the vacuum hoses. All of the EGR solenoids are vacuum operated and if you have a leak you will start to throw EGR codes. Once you throw certain codes, it won't go through a DPF regen. That will cause codes like EGR Cooler Plugged, etc. Also, check-out AllDataDIY for troubleshooting. It doesn't cost much and is much cheaper than trying to buy factory service manuals. Also...check and clean your throttle body and EGR Valve. Diesel EGR makes a mess of slimy carbon deposits!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Take a look at your vacuum hoses and check out how much vacuum you are making. If your Vacuum pump is leaking a little oil, it will ruin some of the vacuum hoses. All of the EGR solenoids are vacuum operated and if you have a leak you will start to throw EGR codes. Once you throw certain codes, it won't go through a DPF regen. That will cause codes like EGR Cooler Plugged, etc. Also, check-out AllDataDIY for troubleshooting. It doesn't cost much and is much cheaper than trying to buy factory service manuals. Also...check and clean your throttle body and EGR Valve. Diesel EGR makes a mess of slimy carbon deposits!
I've been messing with the car for a few hours now. I sprayed the engine down with starting fluid to check for leaks. Seems there's no external vacuum leaks. I did however notice while doing that the egr was not plugged in. And there was about 1qt to much oil in it. I plugged in egr, drained 1qt oil cleared the codes and drove for about 40 miles. No engine lights returned. But the countdown is still going. I've got 29 miles to 65mph limit now
 

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I'm pretty sure you aren't gonna find a vacuum leak by using ether, the vacuum is created with an external pump so even if there was a leak and it did suck up the ether it doesn't end up in the manifold. It sounds like you might've found your issue though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm pretty sure you aren't gonna find a vacuum leak by using ether, the vacuum is created with an external pump so even if there was a leak and it did suck up the ether it doesn't end up in the manifold. It sounds like you might've found your issue though.
Well, I didn't know that.
I drove it again today. I got an egr excessive flow code. So I'm gonna change the egr tomorrow with the new one that I had ordered. Was gonna change it tonight but the torx bolt stripped out. I cut a chunk off an Allen wrench and stuck in in there with jb weld for the night.
Down to 10 miles until 65mph limit now.. getting nervous to keep driving it
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Well, I got the obd hooked it up, ran a service regen with no results. I drove it a few miles and watched the NOX levels. Sensor 1 reads about 200 normally but did range from -10 when stopping up to 1200 when accelerating. sensor 2 was usually lower than sensor 1. was usually between 100 and 350. It did not change as much. I have no active DTC's. I do have 1 History dtc of p20ee. but it is not current, and the light is off.

What next? Google search is telling me a p20ee is NOx bank 1? Should I change the front sensor? Does anyone know what the readings should be on these sensors??
 

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Well, I got the obd hooked it up, ran a service regen with no results. I drove it a few miles and watched the NOX levels. Sensor 1 reads about 200 normally but did range from -10 when stopping up to 1200 when accelerating. sensor 2 was usually lower than sensor 1. was usually between 100 and 350. It did not change as much. I have no active DTC's. I do have 1 History dtc of p20ee. but it is not current, and the light is off.

What next? Google search is telling me a p20ee is NOx bank 1? Should I change the front sensor? Does anyone know what the readings should be on these sensors??
Gretio is the newer version of that app.

The DEF Fluid Quality test is important. Basically does the driving to see if a SCR issue clear or not.... While stationary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Gretio is the newer version of that app.

The DEF Fluid Quality test is important. Basically does the driving to see if a SCR issue clear or not.... While stationary.
Well it feels good to see your name in my thread. I've been trying to read every thread that you're involved in. As those threads generally have a resolution.

Gretio is the app I used for the service regen. I purchased torque pro, but not Biscan. I bought a subscription to Gretio instead. I will run a Def Fluid Quality check tonight when I get home and update with results.

This far I have changed the egr for a new GM part. Drained 1.5 qt excess oil, and drained and refilled def. Which seems to have cleared all codes current, pending, and permanent. The only code that remains is the p20ee, which is a permanent code. Gretio does not detect the code I only find it with my old code reader. The engine light is currently off and has been for a few days now.
I believe the rear nox sensor has already been replaced. I pulled it out and it looks brand new, not 1 spec of soot, the retaining nut looks brand new, there is no dust on the wiring or module. And the top nut on the module is missing.

Should I change it again? Should I change the front sensor?

Does Gretio notify you of a command being completed? Like the manual regen never said regen complete. I just assumed it was when the car came back down to 800 rpm
 

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Here is some information about P20EE:

DTC P20EE
  • NOx Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold
Circuit/System Description
The selective catalytic reduction (SCR) system reduces oxides of nitrogen (NOx) emissions by injecting a metered amount of diesel exhaust fluid or reductant into the exhaust gas stream entering the SCR. Within the selective catalytic reduction catalyst, the reductant reacts with the NOx to form nitrogen, carbon dioxide, and water vapor. Upstream and downstream NOx sensors provide the engine control module (ECM) with engine-out and tailpipe-out NOx levels.

The ECM uses the 2 NOx sensors to control exhaust NOx levels. The first NOx sensor is located at the outlet of the turbocharger and monitors the engine out NOx. The second NOx sensor is located at the outlet of the SCR that monitors NOx levels exiting the SCR. The ECM varies the amount of reductant added by varying the reductant injector duty cycle in response to changes in engine exhaust out NOx levels.

Conditions for Running the DTCs
P20EE
  • The BARO pressure is greater than 75 kPa (11 psi)
  • Ambient air and reductant temperatures are warmer than -7°C (+19°F).
  • Reductant tank is not in frozen tank status.
  • Exhaust Gas Temperature sensor 2 is between 215-350°C (419-662°F).
  • Emission reduction fluid tank level is above 33%.
  • Battery voltage is greater than 11 V for greater than 3 s.
  • Engine speed is greater than 600 RPM for at least 10 s.
  • NOx sensor 1 and NOx sensor 2 status is Active for greater than 40 s.
  • NOx 1 NOx Concentration is between 40-800 ppm.
  • A DPF regeneration is not active.
  • APP Senor 1 Position is greater than 5%.
  • The DTCs run once per drive cycle when the above conditions are met.
Conditions for Setting the DTC
The ECM has determined the catalyst efficiency has degraded below a calibrated threshold.

Action Taken When the DTC Sets
P20EE and P2BAA
  • DTC P20EE and P2BAA are Type A DTCs.
  • The ECM commands the engine to operate in Reduced Engine Power mode.
  • The driver information center displays Engine Power Is Reduced message.
Diagnostic Aids
  • Using fuel other than ultra low sulfur content fuel will cause this DTC to set.
  • A quality message may be present on the driver information center (DIC) with or without DTCsP20EE.
  • A leak in the reductant system can be located by inspecting for a build-up of crystallized diesel exhaust fluid.
  • Water in the reductant tank will cause this DTC to set. Multiple Reductant Fluid Quality tests will be necessary to heal the system once the reductant is replaced with fresh reductant.
  • The NOx sensors cannot distinguish between NOx and liquid reductant. High NOx sensor 2 readings can be caused by reductant getting past the SCR catalyst. This can be the result of a degraded catalyst or a condition that causes excessive reductant on the SCR. After a DPF service regeneration, the SCR system is purged of excessive reductant. It is easier to evaluate if an SCR is compromised right after a service regeneration because it eliminates the extra reductant that the system was exposed to.
  • During a DPF service regeneration, the SCR is too hot to reduce NOx effectively. NOx sensor 1 and NOx sensor 2 values should be relatively similar. NOx sensor 2 can be up to 30% higher than NOx sensor 1 in some cases.
  • During a road test at operating temperature and highway speeds, the NOx sensor 2 should be 70% less than the NOx sensor 1 and transition in the same direction as the upstream sensor, but at a much lower magnitude. During a road test, you can collect transient data for NOx sensor 1 and NOx sensor 2. After a heavy acceleration followed by a tip out (zero pedal input), both sensors should go to zero while coasting down. If NOx sensor 2 does not go to zero shortly after NOx sensor 1, NOx sensor 2 is either faulty or the system is saturated with reductant. Performing this test during or shortly after a DPF regeneration prevents the system from being saturated with reductant.
  • It is recommended that the following parameters are recorded every 2 minutes during and after each Reductant Fluid Quality Test and DPF Service Regeneration for reference as they may become necessary:
  • NOx Sensor 1 NOx Concentration
  • NOx Sensor 2 NOx Concentration
  • EGT Sensor 1
  • EGT Sensor 2
  • EGT Sensor 3
The Circuit/System Verification process is quite extensive. You might want to consider an AllDataDIY account. Some of the tests require the GM Scan Tool to perform.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Here is some information about P20EE:

DTC P20EE
  • NOx Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold
Circuit/System Description
The selective catalytic reduction (SCR) system reduces oxides of nitrogen (NOx) emissions by injecting a metered amount of diesel exhaust fluid or reductant into the exhaust gas stream entering the SCR. Within the selective catalytic reduction catalyst, the reductant reacts with the NOx to form nitrogen, carbon dioxide, and water vapor. Upstream and downstream NOx sensors provide the engine control module (ECM) with engine-out and tailpipe-out NOx levels.

The ECM uses the 2 NOx sensors to control exhaust NOx levels. The first NOx sensor is located at the outlet of the turbocharger and monitors the engine out NOx. The second NOx sensor is located at the outlet of the SCR that monitors NOx levels exiting the SCR. The ECM varies the amount of reductant added by varying the reductant injector duty cycle in response to changes in engine exhaust out NOx levels.

Conditions for Running the DTCs
P20EE
  • The BARO pressure is greater than 75 kPa (11 psi)
  • Ambient air and reductant temperatures are warmer than -7°C (+19°F).
  • Reductant tank is not in frozen tank status.
  • Exhaust Gas Temperature sensor 2 is between 215-350°C (419-662°F).
  • Emission reduction fluid tank level is above 33%.
  • Battery voltage is greater than 11 V for greater than 3 s.
  • Engine speed is greater than 600 RPM for at least 10 s.
  • NOx sensor 1 and NOx sensor 2 status is Active for greater than 40 s.
  • NOx 1 NOx Concentration is between 40-800 ppm.
  • A DPF regeneration is not active.
  • APP Senor 1 Position is greater than 5%.
  • The DTCs run once per drive cycle when the above conditions are met.
Conditions for Setting the DTC
The ECM has determined the catalyst efficiency has degraded below a calibrated threshold.

Action Taken When the DTC Sets
P20EE and P2BAA
  • DTC P20EE and P2BAA are Type A DTCs.
  • The ECM commands the engine to operate in Reduced Engine Power mode.
  • The driver information center displays Engine Power Is Reduced message.
Diagnostic Aids
  • Using fuel other than ultra low sulfur content fuel will cause this DTC to set.
  • A quality message may be present on the driver information center (DIC) with or without DTCsP20EE.
  • A leak in the reductant system can be located by inspecting for a build-up of crystallized diesel exhaust fluid.
  • Water in the reductant tank will cause this DTC to set. Multiple Reductant Fluid Quality tests will be necessary to heal the system once the reductant is replaced with fresh reductant.
  • The NOx sensors cannot distinguish between NOx and liquid reductant. High NOx sensor 2 readings can be caused by reductant getting past the SCR catalyst. This can be the result of a degraded catalyst or a condition that causes excessive reductant on the SCR. After a DPF service regeneration, the SCR system is purged of excessive reductant. It is easier to evaluate if an SCR is compromised right after a service regeneration because it eliminates the extra reductant that the system was exposed to.
  • During a DPF service regeneration, the SCR is too hot to reduce NOx effectively. NOx sensor 1 and NOx sensor 2 values should be relatively similar. NOx sensor 2 can be up to 30% higher than NOx sensor 1 in some cases.
  • During a road test at operating temperature and highway speeds, the NOx sensor 2 should be 70% less than the NOx sensor 1 and transition in the same direction as the upstream sensor, but at a much lower magnitude. During a road test, you can collect transient data for NOx sensor 1 and NOx sensor 2. After a heavy acceleration followed by a tip out (zero pedal input), both sensors should go to zero while coasting down. If NOx sensor 2 does not go to zero shortly after NOx sensor 1, NOx sensor 2 is either faulty or the system is saturated with reductant. Performing this test during or shortly after a DPF regeneration prevents the system from being saturated with reductant.
  • It is recommended that the following parameters are recorded every 2 minutes during and after each Reductant Fluid Quality Test and DPF Service Regeneration for reference as they may become necessary:
  • NOx Sensor 1 NOx Concentration
  • NOx Sensor 2 NOx Concentration
  • EGT Sensor 1
  • EGT Sensor 2
  • EGT Sensor 3
The Circuit/System Verification process is quite extensive. You might want to consider an AllDataDIY account. Some of the tests require the GM Scan Tool to perform.
You're right it looks like there is Wealth of information there. It's tough to keep dishing out more and more money on this thing. But it seems like it would be worth it.

The test for the nox sensors seems good foot off and make sure both go to 0. I know the front sensor was going to -10 (not sure what to make of that) . Didn't notice anything on the rear though, I'll have to check that tonight. Also it says it may take several def fluid tests to "heal the code"
 

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You're right it looks like there is Wealth of information there. It's tough to keep dishing out more and more money on this thing. But it seems like it would be worth it.

The test for the nox sensors seems good foot off and make sure both go to 0. I know the front sensor was going to -10 (not sure what to make of that) . Didn't notice anything on the rear though, I'll have to check that tonight. Also it says it may take several def fluid tests to "heal the code"
They probably want to do multiple runs because of that saturation issue also mentioned. Which is why I reccomend just always doing a service Regen before a quality test.

You can monitor “DPF Regen Status” or “Fluid Quality Status” PIDs. And those will switch to complete at some point. But the vehicle itself does not have any method of directly signaling when the procedure is done... Except the RPM drop of course,

Annoyingly the vehicle will sometimes notify us if it fails while in progress. And the app will notify you of this on the bottom of the screen. But don’t count on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
They probably want to do multiple runs because of that saturation issue also mentioned. Which is why I reccomend just always doing a service Regen before a quality test.

You can monitor “DPF Regen Status” or “Fluid Quality Status” PIDs. And those will switch to complete at some point. But the vehicle itself does not have any method of directly signaling when the procedure is done... Except the RPM drop of course,

Annoyingly the vehicle will sometimes notify us if it fails while in progress. And the app will notify you of this on the bottom of the screen. But don’t count on it.
Well here comes a dumb question. But I'm not sure exactly what "pids" are. I thought that was vehicle specific guages.
 

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Parameter IDs. These are the unique Hexadecimal codes used to request data from the ECM. Torque Pro and Greido are programmed with certain ones already to allow you to read Boost, EGT1, EGT2, EGT3, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well I've got some news. I did the quality test. It started with the NOx 2 not reading. After about 3 minutes the NOx 2 started to read Initially it was way over NOx 1. It started to creep it's way down to about 40% of NOx 1. The test ran about 20-30 minutes and it hit idle. I checked the car and the message was gone. I changed coats hopped in the car and hit the road. I Made it about 20 miles and the message was back. I have no engine lights on, and while checking with the old scanner even the p20ee code permanent is gone too. While driving I noticed that the NOx 2 did not want to go below 40. Even when NOx 1 was reading 10 NOx 2 was up at 40, and may get down to 20 after some time. When cruising both would rise and eventually NOx 2 would fall to around 50% of NOx 1. I performed the throttle test that was posted earlier, heavy accel ---> 0 throttle. NOx1 would fall to 0 or -10 and NOx 2 would fall off to about 40. It would never fall to 0. So I believe that is definitive that NOx 2 readings are the culprit. Which means it's either NOx 2 sensor, the CAT/NOx filter, or the NOx sprayer is over spraying. But given the NOx 2 known issue I will start there, and purchase a new NOx 2.

Problem #2 When coming to a complete stop and then taking off again the car was like neutral dropping. Free rev then it would bang into gear. Not sure what's up with that??

I would like to thank you guys for posting the helpful info, and thanks to snipesy for the apps. Really appreciate it.
 

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Well I've got some news. I did the quality test. It started with the NOx 2 not reading. After about 3 minutes the NOx 2 started to read Initially it was way over NOx 1. It started to creep it's way down to about 40% of NOx 1. The test ran about 20-30 minutes and it hit idle. I checked the car and the message was gone. I changed coats hopped in the car and hit the road. I Made it about 20 miles and the message was back. I have no engine lights on, and while checking with the old scanner even the p20ee code permanent is gone too. While driving I noticed that the NOx 2 did not want to go below 40. Even when NOx 1 was reading 10 NOx 2 was up at 40, and may get down to 20 after some time. When cruising both would rise and eventually NOx 2 would fall to around 50% of NOx 1. I performed the throttle test that was posted earlier, heavy accel ---> 0 throttle. NOx1 would fall to 0 or -10 and NOx 2 would fall off to about 40. It would never fall to 0. So I believe that is definitive that NOx 2 readings are the culprit. Which means it's either NOx 2 sensor, the CAT/NOx filter, or the NOx sprayer is over spraying. But given the NOx 2 known issue I will start there, and purchase a new NOx 2.

Problem #2 When coming to a complete stop and then taking off again the car was like neutral dropping. Free rev then it would bang into gear. Not sure what's up with that??

I would like to thank you guys for posting the helpful info, and thanks to snipesy for the apps. Really appreciate it.
Yeah I have had problems where the quality test passes and the issue comes back only during normal driving. This issues happens a lot at the dealership and leads to vehicles Coming back allllll the time.

A destroyed filter is... Unlikely, When it does happen it’s usually due to the ammonia eating away at the outside of the exhaust until a hole appears. If this happens it’s usually just a simaple weld to fix.

Maybe this NOx 2 from Amazon is dubious? But I have had very good luck with Amazon warehouse Items in the past so not sure. One time I scored a $12000 monitor for $600 because the box had a dent in it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yeah I have had problems where the quality test passes and the issue comes back only during normal driving. This issues happens a lot at the dealership and leads to vehicles Coming back allllll the time.

A destroyed filter is... Unlikely, When it does happen it’s usually due to the ammonia eating away at the outside of the exhaust until a hole appears. If this happens it’s usually just a simaple weld to fix.

Maybe this NOx 2 from Amazon is dubious? But I have had very good luck with Amazon warehouse Items in the past so not sure. One time I scored a $12000 monitor for $600 because the box had a dent in it.
The NOx 2 from Amazon was indeed used. It was all dusty. So I didn't even bother, just sent it back today. Ordered a new one from Rock auto with expedited shipping. The one that's in there looked new to me. So I figured it was a better bet. I didn't see and holes in the filter. I will try to feel around up there when I do the new NOx sensor. And I'll start it and check for air leaks too. I'll update when the new one comes in
 

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Problem #2 When coming to a complete stop and then taking off again the car was like neutral dropping. Free rev then it would bang into gear. Not sure what's up with that??
A known problem with this Aisin AF40-6 transmission. There are threads in the forum. It typically becomes more pronounced during warmer weather.

There are things you can do to help improve it. Such as multiple fluid flushes with a higher performance fluid, like Amsoil Signature Series. Or positioning the shifter in manual just as you‘re coming to a stop.

But the problem only truly goes away with the more expensive measures of replacing the valve body or the entire transmission itself. Drain and fills will only push the problem a little down the road.

I’ve studied this pretty extensively. To the best of my knowledge the issue is a solenoid that travels within a cylinder inside the valve body. The cylinder wall wears and the solenoid leaks, slowing its response. Thereby causing the delayed shift into gear from a stop at a traffic light. The leaking gets worse as ambient and transmission temperature increases.

GM only ever used this Aisin transmission in a few vehicles. They were all high powered applications that could not be met by the then existing GM 6T automatic transmissions - or did not fit one that could. This Aisin is physically small and rated for higher power.

For many years GM had no service parts available. It was unit replacement only. But in recent years a revised valve body has become available.

Through two summers, my dealership worked through TAC to attempt to resolve my transmission issues. First at 75K a fluid change and factory reset of the TCM. Second a change of the valve body. Third a replacement of the entire unit at 90K. As there were no rebuilds available, my unit replacement was a brand new, 2020 build, from Aisin in Japan.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Put the new NOx 2 in and drove it. At first it seemed promising. Then the NOx 2 just started climbing until it was double NOx 1. So came home did the test. It started out kinda of up and down. Then it finally leveled out. The test completed and then as soon as it was over. The NOx 2 just started sky rocketing again... it's this an injector sticking open?

I'm gonna drive it for a few miles and see if the light comes back.
 
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