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I commute in mine daily at that level as well, and when I lost my vanpool due to the pandemic, commuting in my 11 mpg square-body truck was definitely NOT going to cut it! I have averaged 43 mpg overall with 126k on my 2014 diesel cruze and today driving to work the 50 mile average reading on the dash was 50 mpg.

I average 43mpg on every tank. when I use the car for short trips around town it really beats down the average. Watching the fuel economy on my way to and from work I can achieve 47 to 52 mpg if I really try. I just read on another thread about the EGR cooler causing the countdown when the bypass is hindered. Looks like ill be taking apart the vacuum pump this weekend to see whats going on.
 

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My initial issue with my Cruze was due to a bad vacuum line. It was swollen from the little bit of leaking oil off of the vacuum pump. I bought some vacuum hose and replaced the long one under the pump that goes to the EGR valve actuator and then another short one that goes to the EGR Cooler. It practically fell off of the EGR vacuum regulator solenoid because the hose was swollen up. This simple fix corrected a bunch of nagging codes that had me almost pulling my hair out! There is a Service Bulletin PI1260 that deals with the vacuum hoses.
One thing I found out was that if certain codes are set on your vehicle, it will not perform a regen. If you drive long enough without a regen, then it will start throwing other codes because of that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
I average 43mpg on every tank. when I use the car for short trips around town it really beats down the average. Watching the fuel economy on my way to and from work I can achieve 47 to 52 mpg if I really try. I just read on another thread about the EGR cooler causing the countdown when the bypass is hindered. Looks like ill be taking apart the vacuum pump this weekend to see whats going on.
The only thing in there is a piece of flat steel with rubber on the ends. The oil leaks do cause the vacuum lines to swell. Trace them down to their sources. Check to see if they are connected tightly.
Did you ever check your oil level? It's very important that it is not over filled.

If you're not low on power then I would speculate its not an exhaust obstruction. Or a turbo issue. 455c does seem quite hot for your egt. I know the dpf is made to run hot though. So I'm not sure what is acceptable in there
 

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Well, I checked the vacuum pump and lines, no oil. I monitored my EGT's on my way home from work yesterday. Sensor 1 stayed around 375° C, sensor 2 390° C, and sensor 3 360° C. I drive 40 miles 1 way M-F. Not really sure where to go from here. Thinking about addressing the blow by with a new separator or just installing a catch can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Is that the only code you have p2002?

Alldata states. Check for black smoke by hard accelerations.

No smoke check for intake and exhaust leaks

No leaks check maf

Good maf? Change the dpf.

I was able to pressure test my intake system with about 5$ worth of parts from the hardware store. Was able to pump it to 40psi to listen for leaks
 

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P2002 is the only code. I have no smoke at all. I'd like to get my hands on a fogger to check the intake and exhaust system for leaks. I dont see any soot trails anywhere along the exhaust system. I'm Considering using Liqui Moly's DPF cleaner and purge fluids on the DPF. On the way in this morning, all EGT's ran consistent under 375C. A couple of times NOX2 would creep a bit high. I would floor it and watch in my mirror assuming I'd smoke. NONE. NOX2 readings significantly lowered.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 · (Edited)
Could be a bad scr maybe... NOx 2 should be like 30% of NOx 1. What are your nox #s when cruising?

To pressure test. I used a pvc cap drilled a hole in it put a tire valve stem in it. Stuck it in a coupler and attached it to the turbo intake.
 
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