[JDGonier]

I bought a 2013 Cruze LTZ and while I was still under warranty I brought my car in because I was having issues with the car jerking and studdering when getting on the gas. It was mild but noticable and it did not do it all the time. At the time when I brought it in the dealer said they couldn't reproduce the issue and determined that I was either getting on or off the gas at the same time the transmission was either down shifting or up shifting, causing the jerky behavior. Now I'm out of warranty and the issue had gotten so bad that it does it really bad every time I get on the gas to take off, pass on the freeway or just to get up to speed. I took my car back in last week and NOW they can find the problem.

It turns out that my coil pack is cracked and arcing causing my plugs to foul and burn up. I also have a 537 millivolt drop in my positive battery cable. They are telling me it's going to cost 1100.00 replace the coil pack, 4 spark plugs and a battery cable.

I have two questions then.

First, if I brought this to their attention back when I was under warranty and they couldn't find the issue but the problem never went away and got worse, shouldn't they be fixing this for free under my warranty being it was brought to their attention back when I had the warranty?

Second, how the **** is it 1100.00 when the coil pack runs about 130.00 (from what I've read on here), plugs at best are 15.00 each and a battery cable can't run more than 50.00. So they are telling me it's around 800.00 or more in labor? I watched a guy on YouTube pull off the coil pack and remove all 4 plugs and replace everything in less than 15 min. So am I to believe that a chevy dealer can't do this in the same amount of time? Or am I to believe that the rest of the labor charge is to replace the battery cable?

I just want chevy to fix it all at no cost to me being it was brought to their attention back when I had the warranty. It's not my fault they couldn't figure it out back then.

 

[JDGonier]

Also note, these problems started after I brought the car in for a recall to reprogram the computer for an emissions issue.

 

[cdb09007]

Replace the Coilpack yourself. I got mine for 80 bucks on amazon. Plugs are 25 (if you need em). And it's Plug n Play!


And if the "battery cable" is the negative terminal cable, that is covered under the recall.

 

[JDGonier]

It's the positive batt cable.

 

[Robby]

Since you think, and I agree, you have a dealer problem it is time to move on.......even if the next dealer is 50 miles away.

Since you have not had the negative cable replaced, any testing that is resistance related is null and void.......that should have been #1 on the dealers diagnostic tree.
This alone makes me question the dealers integrity let alone the incredible estimate.......that store wouldn't get the sweat off my.....well, you know, from this point forward.

The problem is a coil cracked......maybe it was, maybe it wasn't in the past but somebody can finally see the track mark so, it must be replaced.
The plugs are at your option......you did not report current mileage.......and running a plug with a bum coil really doesn't hurt the plug since it was firing most of the time.

If you actually have a positive battery cable problem, provable AFTER the negative cable update (warranty BTW) has been performed, you will be the first Cruze owner on this forum to experience same.

Get to a different dealer and bring along the bulletin number (found on a different thread here) along with you......please report back.

Rob

 

[cruze2011white]

Yea they are trying to screw you on that. Do it yourself. They might even have the coil pack in stock. You can go anywhere to get the plugs. the battery cable doesn't sound right. A cable is not just going to go bad. It could just be dirty and needs cleaned on the ends.

 

[obermd]

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/25-s...al-coverage-14311-negative-battery-cable.html

Drop that dealership ASAP.

 

[JDGonier]

My milage is 55658.

 

[JDGonier]

Here is what they wrote up.

 

[cdb09007]

I assumed it was the negative cable cause, as Robby said, no ones ever had a positive cable fail. lol. Go to a different dealer, but even if they charge over 200 for the coilpack and plugs, do it yourself.

 

[JDGonier]

If there's a first for something, I'll be the one to discover it. Lol

 

[RIXSTER]

The original dealership should cover that because the concern was brought to them when under warranty, bitch to the service manager. If that doesn't work, (which it should), find another dealer. I just had the same thing happen last week (50K) and service manager put it under "goodwill" warranty.

 

[JDGonier]

Thanks for the info. I'm going to look into that. Thanks.

That's what I was thinking, they should cover it.

 

[ChevyGuy]

Here is what they wrote up.

Assuming that "Subtotal" means what I think it means, that adds up to $150. Where's the rest of the money?

 

[JDGonier]

That's just what they charged me for the diagnostic.

 

[obermd]

Here is what they wrote up.

The battery cable testing wasn't necessary based on the complaint that the radio restarts. This is one of the symptoms listed for the Negative battery cable warranty replacement. No testing is required for this Service Bulletin 14311, just the customer complaint.

 

[JDGonier]

Cool.

 

[brian v]

Cool.

Hey ya gotta do IT like this ---