Hi guys , I need help
I just bought Cruze 2011 few days ago.
Last night I was listening to the radio and suddenly the battery died, I asked some to boost it and it worked but the dashboard didn't turned on
I don't know how to deal with it.
Use to say, if it wasn't for jumper cables, we would not have a strong aftermarket business.
Mixed emotions on "always hot" never liked this in my own vehicles, but sure kept my job secure, back in the old days, when the ignition switch was off, so was everything else, now just about everything is always hot.
Would think designing for 12V was easy, enough to drive you crazy, trying to get reliable operation down to 6 volts, and while the SAE said should take up to 40 peak, a loose battery connection can generate 150 V spikes. Yet another obstacle was reverse polarity protection, could never protect alternator main diodes against this, and yes, were always hot. Like to think about the consumer since I also was one.
Any possibility the jumper cables were connected in reverse? Was this done in the dark without a flashlight? Best procedure is to hook the red cable to the positive side of the battery + of the recipient vehicle than to the + of the donor vehicle. It only takes a fraction of a second to do a lot of damage.
For the negative black cable, any good ground point on the recipient vehicle would be fine then to the donor vehicle. Back in the good old days, only needed one cable, just touch the bumpers, all plastic now. Course also back then not only a negative ground, many vehicles also used a positive ground, really had to be awake.
Also back then, the only polarity sensitive device was your radio with a real power switch that could be turned off, today, everything is always hot, and this includes your BCM's, have about seven in your Cruze.
Cheapest form of polarity protection was to mount a reverse diode across the input power lines, with reverse polarity, it would conduct and blow a fuse, if the bean counters would let you put in a diode large enough so it could take that surge current and blow the fuse without burning up, if even a diode was permitted at all.
A friend recently called me with a dead battery, threw my jumper cables in the car, backed up, then stopped, forgot my flashlight. Connected the cables correctly with my engine off, started my engine and let it run for about five minutes to charge up his battery, then disconnected one lead to see if his car would start, it did, and his alternator was okay, also brought my voltmeter.
You may have a blown fuse if lucky, if your battery has a shorted cell, 10 volts instead of 12, no telling what would or would not work, all those computers cannot get a proper reset voltage.
Does all this stuff sound too complicated? Don't blame me, this is the way it is.