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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I get some heat but not as much as i used to get. 17 cruze purchased 2 months ago with only 1600 miles. Appt. with dealer next week.

The rear window is the worst i've ever owned. The whole time i've owned the car. Takes a long time to defrost.

Last week, my headlights started acting up. Any type of shade or shadow would turn them on. And keep them on till car was shut off. Really hard to see the dash in broad daylight. Even with max adjustment it's not even close to daylights off.
Heater also stopped blowing as hot as it used to. It's now as worthless as the hyundai i traded in for it. That car came with a 180 thermostat so it wasn't the greatest in winter. Now i have a repeat in teh cruze.
The seat heaters aren't that hot anymore either.

I'm now struggling for heat.

I don't see any posts about the problem so i must be the only one??????
 

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Except for the heat all your issues are electrical. Even the heat may be electrical if the valves aren't opening to route engine coolant through the cabin heater core. The fact that it's multiple systems not working right is actually good - it reduces the number of possible causes. My first guess would be to look at the main power connections at the battery.
 

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Yep, sounds like low voltage or a bad ground connection somewhere.

Pretty happy with the rear window defrost on mine, the seats get nice and toasty on high, and the blower moves around more than enough air. Heated mirrors are pretty slow, though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I"m gonna look at the batteries on my weekend off in a couple of days. I think they're both toast. With what the volt meter has been showing. Course, a loose connection would be nice. I really don't want to be hitting the dealer if i don't have too.
 

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I haven't heard what the story is on the Gen2, but the engine on the Gen1 was so efficient it really didn't produce much heat. You had to be careful not to crank the fan control too high or you'd never get warm at all.
 
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I haven't heard what the story is on the Gen2, but the engine on the Gen1 was so efficient it really didn't produce much heat. You had to be careful not to crank the fan control too high or you'd never get warm at all.
It's a non-issue. You've got heat in about 2-3 mins and it stays nice and toasty unless you're at idle for long periods.

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It's a non-issue. You've got heat in about 2-3 mins and it stays nice and toasty unless you're at idle for long periods.
I wonder what they did differently for the Gen 2?
 

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Don't you just love all this technology these days. Heck the pickup truck we drive at work locks the doors sometimes. Just this morning as I was getting out the doors locked then unlocked and I didn't touch anything. Last winter we were letting it warm up. You guessed it the doors locked then we had to go to the motor pool for a spare set of keys. I/we no longer leave the keys in the truck unless the windows are down or the door is open.
I like reading through the trouble threads to help learn what might go wrong with my cruze and how to repair it. But then again it seems like 90% of the problems are computer related. Makes me wonder if it's worth it from an owner standpoint. I'm sure the dealers/repair shops love it.
 

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But then again it seems like 90% of the problems are computer related. Makes me wonder if it's worth it from an owner standpoint. I'm sure the dealers/repair shops love it.
The German makes (and FCA) are FULL of electrical issues and it drives the technicians nuts. Electrical issues are the biggest pain to track down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
After sitting all night. Battery voltage reads 12.01 volts. I thought there was 2 but no idea on location of other one. 2 fuses back there are good. So i guess we're stuck with partial heat till next week when we visit the dealer. Just in time for colder temps to arrive. :$#angry:
 

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Only one battery in the Cruze start/stop system. There's a giant capacitor alongside the battery that saves juice for the restart.

12.0 is a bit low, but wouldn't explain low power to other accessories when the engine is running and alternator is charging.

What battery is installed in your trunk? Mine came to me with a non-AGM battery, which was incorrect for the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have no idea on the battery. I couldn't even figure out how to pull it out. Will have to take a closer look.

From what i've been reading. There's supposed to be a second battery that runs the accessories when engine shut off. And there's supposed to be sensors now so the car knows when the batteries go bad. Maybe this is how it works. Cuts down on the heating capabilities. I don't know.

I've actually seen 15.05 volts on the torque gauge app. During daytime. With headlights off. Another thing that leads me to beleive the battery is bad.

the car was manufactured 8-16. Didn't get put into service untill 9-27-17. 13 months it sat around before use.
 

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Only one battery in the Cruze system. Malibu and other vehicles use 2 batteries; the Cruze does not.

Anywhere from 13-15.3 V charging voltage is "normal" operation for a Cruze. Anywhere from 12.0-12.8V residual battery voltage is considered by GM to be "normal" voltage for a Cruze's variable charging system; anything below 12.0V will run the engine/alternator continuously rather than engaging auto-stop.

The real test will be to have the battery tested to see if it is producing the required amperage. Seeing as it sat that long, perhaps it needs a new battery, or just a good charge from something besides its own electrical system. There were early recalls on the 2016 Cruzes for the negative battery cable, as well as things that could cause the battery compartment to flood and electronics in that battery tub to short out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
We've hit 15.4 today. Was able to get in today. Battery and charging being tested. And open recall on water leak performed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Dealer said battery tested fine. They think it's my bafx being plugged in all the time. My hyundai obd2 port would turn completely off. Apparently that's not the case with the cruze. I find it hard to believe that it would drain more power overnight then the autostop feature in city traffic. But we'll give it a try.

Took a ride up north for dinner. And when i got back home. The seats felt like they were coming back alive. And the alternator appeared to be working variously like it's supposed. See I'll unplug the thing and see what happens. So much for using the torque app. I have no desire to plug in everytime i start the car. Although it's defenitly nice to know how things are operating so when problems arise in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Don't leave your obd2 plugged in when car isn't running. Apparently it drains the battery more then the stop/start feature. After 2 days of daytime driving without headlights. The battery is charging back up. And ALL heating devices are working normal again.
 

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Dealer said battery tested fine. They think it's my bafx being plugged in all the time. My hyundai obd2 port would turn completely off. Apparently that's not the case with the cruze. I find it hard to believe that it would drain more power overnight then the autostop feature in city traffic. But we'll give it a try.

Took a ride up north for dinner. And when i got back home. The seats felt like they were coming back alive. And the alternator appeared to be working variously like it's supposed. See I'll unplug the thing and see what happens. So much for using the torque app. I have no desire to plug in everytime i start the car. Although it's defenitly nice to know how things are operating so when problems arise in the future.
Dealerships have started selling those stupid rust modules but they plug into your obd2 port and run 24/7. It was offered when I bought my Cruze. As well I've been leaving my obd2 Bluetooth dongle plugged in 24/7 and haven't had an issue. I assume if those dongles caused an issue they wouldn't sell them.

Also just because the voltage looks right doesnt mean the amps are there. It is also always possible that yours is draining a lot more juice than other dongles though.

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
It apparently don't turn off like my hyundai did. Mine has a red light that stays on. I don't know what else would draw power as the obd2 only connects half the gauges when accessory mode is turned on. The rest read in service mode or engine running. My Hyundai shut completely down. No red light overnight. Don't know why chevy needs a always hot source in the plug.

And a bad battery will show proper volts without the amps as the charge isn't soaking top to bottom. That's called a surface charge. And very easy to test.

A good battery, won't have the volts unless the amps are there. It's taking the charge.
 
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