Chevrolet Cruze Forums banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi... new here and hoping to get some direction. I have a 2011 Cruze with around 95000 kms on it. Maybe a bit more but haven't hit 100 000 yet.

Twice in the 5 yrs I've had this car, the engine light has come on. The first time (about 6 months ago) it turned out to be the thermostat (fan was running all the time even on cold start). Was under warranty so work was done by the dealer. Now the engine light has come on again... no warranty now. I took it to the dealer for diagnostic and was told the problem was my cooling system (P00B7). Note - I had no issues with the car whatsoever at this point... I took it in to check why the light was on. Told me they would flush the system and change the sensor and I went ahead with the work. Now, ever since, I have no heat in my car. Initially, when I picked it up, I heard what sounded like fluid running through pipes (like if you stood in your basement with drainage pipes overhead... that same sound). The sound was quite loud and happened quite a bit right after I picked it up and then periodically after. Then my temp gauge started to fluctuate between 1/4 and 1/2 (normally my car sits just under 1/2) and only slightly warm air blowing out of the heaters (and it's been about -10 C so heat is kinda essential). Was told likely air and so I bled the lines last night. Didn't hear the drainage noise today... and temp gauge is not fluctuating anymore... holding steady at just under 1/2... but still no heat. Also, I have not heard the engine fan come on at all so it's not because the fan is running too much. Coolant level is fine (they just flushed it and I have checked levels both hot and cold and it's fine). So... any ideas of what the issue might be? Anyone else have a similar experience? The dealer can't look at it until next week, earliest. And at $130/hour this is getting expensive. If it turns out to be a result of the work they just did then it would be no charge but if it isn't... Then I'm looking at another big bill so I'm looking for ideas of what to look at next and maybe it's something I can do myself.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,003 Posts
From what I understand, this engine is tricky to "burp" and get all the air out. I think the dealer fell down in that department. That would explain the symptoms your describing. Check the coolant level. I think you'll find it's low. Top it off, keep an eye on it for the next few days as any remaining air works its way out, and see how it goes.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MRO1791

·
Registered
Joined
·
253 Posts
I would try to burp again. Pull the coolant tank cap off, turn your heater to the warmest setting on the inside. With your car in park, start it and let it come up to operating temp with the cap off. Watch for air bubbles to come up in the tank. Try that a few times. If that does not do the trick you may need to take it back in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,383 Posts
You have air in the coolant system. I believe with the radiator cap slightly loose all the air should reach the top of the system with the engine running at 1000-1500 RPM.


There is a small air bleed screw that is on the top passenger side of the radiator. It's on the radiator coolant tank. With the engine off, you should be able to fill coolant until it comes out of the bleeder, then close the bleeder and bring the system up to temperature with the radiator cap slightly loose.

You should be able to see coolant flowing through the connection from the top of the water outlet on the drivers side to the top of the radiator fill bottle. Under normal operation people like Obermd have noticed with dye in the system you can see the flow come back to the bottle.

After this you may wish to change the radiator cap o-ring if the system is not holding pressure. This is something you will find on this forum and it's a known problem with the cruze. You'll have to find the thread that discusses this, and order some o-rings. Use a water soluble lube to lubricate them before installing onto the radiator bottle, and be careful as they will be a tight fit.

Ideally the shop would fill the system under vacuum using one of these. I bought one off amazon a few years ago.. Expensive yes but it's saved me on two different GM cars..

Search around, there's a plastic version as well, this is the first link I found.. Amazon had them cheaper I had thought.

If the air pocket is down in the heater core, it can be difficult to get it to rise to the top. I gave up with an Oldsmobile, I had with the coolant tank like the Cruze, and I played with bleeding that for nearly 2 weeks before I bought the air tool.

https://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/Airlift-Kit-P39625.aspx?gclid=CKy5-6as8tECFdcRgQodMG4FMg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks ChevyGuy. The car has now been burped many times... still air in the lines. Fluid levels are fine. It's been in the shop for two days now and they keep thinking they've gotten the air out and then... nope. Checked the water pump, thermostat, cap... all is fine. Stumped.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks Carbon02. I think the garage is changing the cap and they did tell me they are borrowing one of those vacuum tools and trying that. They keep bleeding it and there is still air in it :/
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top