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No Splicing, Amplifier and Subwoofer Tutorial

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No Splicing Amp Subwoofer Tutorial


After spending hours of reading on the forum I was able to get a lot of the information that I need to research how I wanted to do my install on a radio. I thought mine would be what most people wanted but quickly learned everyone wants there own way. I am doing this write up as an alternative to other ways, not saying it is better or worse but just an option out there. Also just for knowledge all the links I attached were from the Manufactures websites and not from the sites I purchased it from due to price difference, but I do tell you the prices and locations for this install that ended up a little over $300.00.
Mine is a 2013 Cruze Eco with the 7” touch screen with out Navigation so I wanted to keep my screen and just add some bass to the system without splicing into wires. (I have lots of experience in wiring and just didn’t feel like cutting into a brand new vehicle) This is my wife’s primary vehicle and she wanted good bass that she could hear and feel, but not overkill rattling of the trunk. We both wanted to keep as much trunk space since we just traded in out Expedition and knew storage space was an issue. After much research (Mainly from XtremeRevolution’s posts which is full of information) Although I loved the Kicker system that came with all the wiring and amp ([URL]http://www.crutchfield.ca/Soundgate_PowerStage_by_Kicker_11_Up_Chevrolet_Cru_p/206pcru11.htm ) I just could not justify $1000.0...m/PUSA/Car/Subwoofers/Shallow+Mount/TS-SWX251 ) which is a 10” Preloaded shallow...USA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Digital+Series/GM-D8601) [IMG]http://www.cruzetalk.com/fo...ductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1026&CategoryID=28 ) I know from another forum post t...62GQ/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 )again from Amazon for $29.00 with...6005-silver-dashboard-trim-removal-guide.html ) I simple removed the radio by th...ully the links and pictures continue to work.
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WOW! Nice write up!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the comments, I mainly wrote it up do to not finding the info I wanted to know throughout a whole install. I have done a ton of radio installs but most of them have been on 2005 and prior cars and trucks. I had never done one on a vehicle with so much integration to other components of the vehicle and that was giving me some 2nd thought about doing it. But one thing I learned early on was that I refuesed to let someone else screw my vehicle up and be paying them at the same time. (AKA best buy and other radio shops that often have beginer installers)

After reading some great reveiws on this forum, I decided the least I could do was spend the time to type up something that could help others the way other posts have helped me on some of my installs and future installs.(under vehicle lighting) This site has been great helping others out, and I just want to help anyway I can to get someone elses car to the way they want it... If you need more photos of some of the install send me a message with your email and I can email you the additional photo's. Or at least till they allow me more than 10 photo's
 
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Excellent write up! Will be using this as a guide when I do my install.
 

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Very thorough writeup! Thanks for taking the time. This will be great for others to refer to. This was particularly helpful as I wasn't sure if the AA-GM44 would work with the MyLink radio. This clarifies all of that.

There are a few small items I wanted to mention though. The PAC AA-GM44 is not designed for the Cruze. Rather, it is designed for a large list of GM cars made after 2010 (I believe that year is correct but don't quote me). For that reason, fitment is not guaranteed. It is a tight fit, but it works.

The wiring/cable you bought is CCA (copper clad aluminum). It isn't labeled as such, but I know for a fact you cannot get that much solid copper for that price with today's copper prices. Expect to pay 2x that amount for OFC (oxygen-free copper) wiring. It won't be too big of an issue for you though, as your current draw will not be high enough to require OFC. Just know that you have the equivalent of 8AWG OFC. One danger with using CCA is that the bare ends corrode easily in engine bay conditions. It looks like they included crimp open terminals for the wiring. In constant hot and cold cycles with changes in moisture, CCA will begin to corrode till the point where it breaks off entirely. Keep an eye on those crimps over the next 2-3 years if you start having issues with the sound system as that will be the cause of your problems. It's not a question of if, but when.

I believe the limitation is 10 photos per post, not per thread. You can always split your tutorial between multiple posts.

Thanks a lot for this! I have a '13 Eco also and this is exactly what I need. Only difference is I'll use a LLC and splice, just for simplicity.

Great job!
The AA-GM44 isn't that difficult once you look at a diagram. I think someone on this board has one floating around. The advantage is that you also get a remote turn on signal wire out of the package and 4 total RCAs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So I found out why I was limited on photos and corrected that so there are a few more photos, but it appears they showed as links, Sorry about that but they are there for you. Thanks for dealing with my inability to fully understand adding links and external photos.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·





 
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So I found out why I was limited on photos and corrected that so there are a few more photos, but it appears they showed as links, Sorry about that but they are there for you. Thanks for dealing with my inability to fully understand adding links and external photos.
I fixed them for you. The problem is that you had a URL tag for them first, then tried to make an image tag out of that URL tag. You can use one or the other, but not both.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Oddly enough I just copied the link from the "BB" section in my photo gallery. But thank you for that help and understanding what I need to look for in the future.
 

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Looks good! the only thing I can add is most amps do not like being mounted upside down, they are designed to dissapate heat being mounted right ways up and will usually work fine mounted 90 degrees, but every amp i've owned, which is a lot... say not to mount upside down.

I looked through a pioneer online manual for a similar amp and didn't find the warning, but something to consider
 

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Looks good! the only thing I can add is most amps do not like being mounted upside down, they are designed to dissapate heat being mounted right ways up and will usually work fine mounted 90 degrees, but every amp i've owned, which is a lot... say not to mount upside down.

I looked through a pioneer online manual for a similar amp and didn't find the warning, but something to consider
It really depends on the heatsink fin orientation. For example, my Coustic Power amps have to be mounted either vertically right side up.



Newer amps however aren't as picky.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I honestly had never e en thought about it, but never saw a warning in the manual. I will have to re-read the manual to make sure though.
 

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I did some searching. my Polk amp and all it's cousins not recommended upside down, the last few JL amps i've installed recommended not upside down, couldn't find any warnings for focal, audison, alpine, pioneer... anything with a fan can't be upside down i know..

if it shuts down at high volumes or when it's hot out you'll know why.
 

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Hi there,

I was looking at this sub+box combo as well in that location but wasn't sure if it would fit. I have the smaller Pioneer GM7400 amp from a previous install and it seems to be matched pretty good to that combo. I was looking at your tutorial but I don't see any of your install pics, only the links to the equipment you used? Were there supposed to be pics of your install on this thread? That would be really helpful so we could see the final product.

On a side note, I don't think the 8" Type-R Apline sub+box combo would fit in that location even though it would be a better sub. Really enjoyed your install though!
 

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Hi there,

I was looking at this sub+box combo as well in that location but wasn't sure if it would fit. I have the smaller Pioneer GM7400 amp from a previous install and it seems to be matched pretty good to that combo. I was looking at your tutorial but I don't see any of your install pics, only the links to the equipment you used? Were there supposed to be pics of your install on this thread? That would be really helpful so we could see the final product.

On a side note, I don't think the 8" Type-R Apline sub+box combo would fit in that location even though it would be a better sub. Really enjoyed your install though!
There are pictures there, but they might be blocked by your connection for some reason.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Also they are in my gallery under stereo and stereo 2 folder.
 

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You DO NOT need to run power and ground to the AA-GM44. Just tap into the blue wire #43 (Next to Yellow #44) on the AA-GM44 connector that plugs into the back of the Factory radio. I hooked mine up this way and it works perfectly. Amp turns on for music, phone, and turns on for door chimes when radio is off. I made a tap off this blue wire before install. So when I installed the AA-GM44, I unplugged the radio, plugged the AA-GM44 harness into the radio plug and other end into the radio, plugged in my rca's and my turn on wire to tap I made. Hook up took less than 5 min. (Finding a place for everything to fit took much loooonger. LOL) This Camaro5 link has a great picture of this wire. It's the blue wire with the blue circle.

Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com - View Single Post - Non-BA Amp Install Questions
 

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On another note. I had looked at that same sub with thoughts of mounting it the same way you did. I was wanting mild bass without trunk space loss. I ended up going with Pioneer D-series 6x9's in the back. Not the bass of the 12" sub I had in my last car. But they kick azz for a 6x9.
 
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