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No Splicing, Amplifier and Subwoofer Tutorial

74K views 76 replies 20 participants last post by  Joxun 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
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No Splicing Amp Subwoofer Tutorial


After spending hours of reading on the forum I was able to get a lot of the information that I need to research how I wanted to do my install on a radio. I thought mine would be what most people wanted but quickly learned everyone wants there own way. I am doing this write up as an alternative to other ways, not saying it is better or worse but just an option out there. Also just for knowledge all the links I attached were from the Manufactures websites and not from the sites I purchased it from due to price difference, but I do tell you the prices and locations for this install that ended up a little over $300.00.
Mine is a 2013 Cruze Eco with the 7” touch screen with out Navigation so I wanted to keep my screen and just add some bass to the system without splicing into wires. (I have lots of experience in wiring and just didn’t feel like cutting into a brand new vehicle) This is my wife’s primary vehicle and she wanted good bass that she could hear and feel, but not overkill rattling of the trunk. We both wanted to keep as much trunk space since we just traded in out Expedition and knew storage space was an issue. After much research (Mainly from XtremeRevolution’s posts which is full of information) Although I loved the Kicker system that came with all the wiring and amp ([URL]http://www.crutchfield.ca/Soundgate_PowerStage_by_Kicker_11_Up_Chevrolet_Cru_p/206pcru11.htm ) I just could not justify $1000.0...m/PUSA/Car/Subwoofers/Shallow+Mount/TS-SWX251 ) which is a 10” Preloaded shallow...USA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Digital+Series/GM-D8601) [IMG]http://www.cruzetalk.com/fo...ductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1026&CategoryID=28 ) I know from another forum post t...62GQ/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 )again from Amazon for $29.00 with...6005-silver-dashboard-trim-removal-guide.html ) I simple removed the radio by th...ully the links and pictures continue to work.
 
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#2 ·
WOW! Nice write up!
 
#4 ·
Thanks for the comments, I mainly wrote it up do to not finding the info I wanted to know throughout a whole install. I have done a ton of radio installs but most of them have been on 2005 and prior cars and trucks. I had never done one on a vehicle with so much integration to other components of the vehicle and that was giving me some 2nd thought about doing it. But one thing I learned early on was that I refuesed to let someone else screw my vehicle up and be paying them at the same time. (AKA best buy and other radio shops that often have beginer installers)

After reading some great reveiws on this forum, I decided the least I could do was spend the time to type up something that could help others the way other posts have helped me on some of my installs and future installs.(under vehicle lighting) This site has been great helping others out, and I just want to help anyway I can to get someone elses car to the way they want it... If you need more photos of some of the install send me a message with your email and I can email you the additional photo's. Or at least till they allow me more than 10 photo's
 
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#7 · (Edited)
Very thorough writeup! Thanks for taking the time. This will be great for others to refer to. This was particularly helpful as I wasn't sure if the AA-GM44 would work with the MyLink radio. This clarifies all of that.

There are a few small items I wanted to mention though. The PAC AA-GM44 is not designed for the Cruze. Rather, it is designed for a large list of GM cars made after 2010 (I believe that year is correct but don't quote me). For that reason, fitment is not guaranteed. It is a tight fit, but it works.

The wiring/cable you bought is CCA (copper clad aluminum). It isn't labeled as such, but I know for a fact you cannot get that much solid copper for that price with today's copper prices. Expect to pay 2x that amount for OFC (oxygen-free copper) wiring. It won't be too big of an issue for you though, as your current draw will not be high enough to require OFC. Just know that you have the equivalent of 8AWG OFC. One danger with using CCA is that the bare ends corrode easily in engine bay conditions. It looks like they included crimp open terminals for the wiring. In constant hot and cold cycles with changes in moisture, CCA will begin to corrode till the point where it breaks off entirely. Keep an eye on those crimps over the next 2-3 years if you start having issues with the sound system as that will be the cause of your problems. It's not a question of if, but when.

I believe the limitation is 10 photos per post, not per thread. You can always split your tutorial between multiple posts.

Thanks a lot for this! I have a '13 Eco also and this is exactly what I need. Only difference is I'll use a LLC and splice, just for simplicity.

Great job!
The AA-GM44 isn't that difficult once you look at a diagram. I think someone on this board has one floating around. The advantage is that you also get a remote turn on signal wire out of the package and 4 total RCAs.
 
#6 ·
Excellent write up! Will be using this as a guide when I do my install.
 
#8 ·
So I found out why I was limited on photos and corrected that so there are a few more photos, but it appears they showed as links, Sorry about that but they are there for you. Thanks for dealing with my inability to fully understand adding links and external photos.
 
#9 ·





 
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#11 ·
Oddly enough I just copied the link from the "BB" section in my photo gallery. But thank you for that help and understanding what I need to look for in the future.
 
#12 ·
Looks good! the only thing I can add is most amps do not like being mounted upside down, they are designed to dissapate heat being mounted right ways up and will usually work fine mounted 90 degrees, but every amp i've owned, which is a lot... say not to mount upside down.

I looked through a pioneer online manual for a similar amp and didn't find the warning, but something to consider
 
#14 ·
I honestly had never e en thought about it, but never saw a warning in the manual. I will have to re-read the manual to make sure though.
 
#15 ·
I did some searching. my Polk amp and all it's cousins not recommended upside down, the last few JL amps i've installed recommended not upside down, couldn't find any warnings for focal, audison, alpine, pioneer... anything with a fan can't be upside down i know..

if it shuts down at high volumes or when it's hot out you'll know why.
 
#16 ·
Hi there,

I was looking at this sub+box combo as well in that location but wasn't sure if it would fit. I have the smaller Pioneer GM7400 amp from a previous install and it seems to be matched pretty good to that combo. I was looking at your tutorial but I don't see any of your install pics, only the links to the equipment you used? Were there supposed to be pics of your install on this thread? That would be really helpful so we could see the final product.

On a side note, I don't think the 8" Type-R Apline sub+box combo would fit in that location even though it would be a better sub. Really enjoyed your install though!
 
#18 ·
Also they are in my gallery under stereo and stereo 2 folder.
 
#19 ·
You DO NOT need to run power and ground to the AA-GM44. Just tap into the blue wire #43 (Next to Yellow #44) on the AA-GM44 connector that plugs into the back of the Factory radio. I hooked mine up this way and it works perfectly. Amp turns on for music, phone, and turns on for door chimes when radio is off. I made a tap off this blue wire before install. So when I installed the AA-GM44, I unplugged the radio, plugged the AA-GM44 harness into the radio plug and other end into the radio, plugged in my rca's and my turn on wire to tap I made. Hook up took less than 5 min. (Finding a place for everything to fit took much loooonger. LOL) This Camaro5 link has a great picture of this wire. It's the blue wire with the blue circle.

Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com - View Single Post - Non-BA Amp Install Questions
 
#20 ·
On another note. I had looked at that same sub with thoughts of mounting it the same way you did. I was wanting mild bass without trunk space loss. I ended up going with Pioneer D-series 6x9's in the back. Not the bass of the 12" sub I had in my last car. But they kick azz for a 6x9.
 
#21 ·
I had also considered the 6x9's but I had read a lot of posts on people saying they would not hit as hard, and I figured for the cost and potential bass difference I would just do the sealed box. Glad to hear the 6x9's are doing well though. My old vehicle had 2 12's pushing 1200 watts a piece, so this was a large step down in bass, but that was an expedition were room was not an issue.

Im glad that there are now instructions to tap into the radio lines, but that was something I was trying to avoid for my install, but the more options to others the better!!!
 
#22 ·
By nature, 6x9s simply won't have the same extension as a boxed subwoofer, and using them for anything other than bass is a futile attempt as the non-Pioneer systems have a different rear deck without the holes cut out for sound to get through.

That is, unless boomy, depth-less bass is your thing.
 
#23 · (Edited)
the non-Pioneer systems have a different rear deck without the holes cut out for sound to get through.
I might have miss understood your statement, so I wanted to clarify...

I thought the regular factory sound system and the Pioneer upgraded sound sytem from chevy both had the 6x9 hole cut outs, cause my sound system is not the factory Pioneer and the holes for the 6x9's were there, just no speakers put in the holes. It is were I mounted the speaker and amp over. Enless you are talking about the fabric that goes over the holes, that would be visible to the passengers, that I would assume are different, but cant confirm due to not seeing a Cruze with the Factory Pioneer System.

Here is another members photo of the Pioneer rear 6x9.
HTML:
[URL]http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/attachments/audio-electronics/8486d1351544570-rear-shelf-speakers-wp_000478.jpg[/URL][html]
 
#25 ·
I cut the deck out on mine. It was pretty easy to do. I traced an outline with a marker before taking it out. The deck is very thin and easily cut with a utilty knife. I bought the factory grills to cover the holes (GM part #95217600 $25 for the pair) and when finished it looks just like the picture in the link above. I also sealed off all the extra holes in the deck before replacing the cover.
 
#26 ·
So a follow up on the install...

After about a month of having the bass added I have been extremely happy execpt was getting a little rattling from the rear deck cover that was bothering me. I purchased a Dynamat from Amazon for $25.00 (18" x 32") and pulled up the rear deck and applied the Dyanamat. After a week of having it in it is 100% better and let me turn the bass up more and not hear any vibrating. Very pleased with this outcome.





 
#28 ·
Last time I did one of these, made a seven wire cable using 14AWG for the power and the ground and four more 16AWG for the left and right rear speakers, last one for the external amplifier relay and just tapped into the vehicle's radio connectors using soldered joints. Run was short going back from the rear next to that hump in the floor right up to the radio. Should ground the external amplifier directly to the radio source or will get ground loops. Noise is another word for it.

Since the OE radio did not have an external amplifier output control signal, had to add one, most logical spot to find that was on one the the Vss power leads to one of the stereo amplifiers. That voltage would switch on and off from the BMC control, but added a transistor buffer emitter follower to it, just in case.

So when the radio was off, everything to do with the radio was off. BMC also protected from all this always hot stuff, didn't want to wake up to a dead battery.

For aftermarket door and deck speakers, would remove the terminals from the OE speakers and rivet those on to the far superior aftermarket speakers soldering on the voice coil leads. That way the OE vehicles were just a plug in.

Everything I did was fully reversible, so could return everything back to stock when I got rid of the vehicle. But not sure why I was doing that, not much of a market anymore for eight track of cassette type overpriced aftermarket radios. Asking myself, why I am saving all this junk, so with the last couple of vehicles, just let that work and money go.

Did get a better radio with my Cruze, told myself, I can live with that, getting lazy, LOL.
 
#29 ·
The unit does not get any of its power or ground from your OEM harness; these have to be run separate. The yellow wire is your positive and has to be connected to a positive connection. I discovered it can be a constant always on or a only on when vehicle is on wire. The PAC AA-GM44 will power it self down once the car is shut of if the positive wire is left on a constant power supply. I just ran mine to the cigarette lighter outlet due to the length. This could also be ran to the fuse block and put in an add a fuse as other posts cover. The next wire is your blue and black wire, It is just a ground wire which I dropped a wire straight down and used a self tapping screw into a support bar for the center counsel due to it only being about 12 inches away. (Just pull the passenger side, left foot panel off) The third wire is the blue wire. This is your amp power on wire and just simply connect your long wire to this that will run to your amp to tell it when to turn on.
What are the two Black wires for? Are they not needed for the Cruze?
Also, how do you know which RCA Pair is front and which is rear, since they are not labeled?
 
#30 ·
Here is the instruction page , http://www.pac-audio.com/PACProductData/SOEM-4/1_Instructions/soem-4_instructions_100209.pdf I want to say I only used the out put blue/black as the ground since the instructions say they are tied together internally. I know if you provide power that the light will come on indicating it has power and ground. I want to say the two to the left (looking from the top) are the fronts and two to the right are the rears. (You can test it by turning the car on and testing the PAC works and fade the radio front to rear, left to right. But I just used the instruction figuring if the input goes in one order of wires that te rear would follow that pattern. Hope this helps.
 
#32 ·
Here is the instruction page , http://www.pac-audio.com/PACProductData/SOEM-4/1_Instructions/soem-4_instructions_100209.pdf I want to say I only used the out put blue/black as the ground since the instructions say they are tied together internally. I know if you provide power that the light will come on indicating it has power and ground. I want to say the two to the left (looking from the top) are the fronts and two to the right are the rears. (You can test it by turning the car on and testing the PAC works and fade the radio front to rear, left to right. But I just used the instruction figuring if the input goes in one order of wires that te rear would follow that pattern. Hope this helps.
LOL that would have made too much sense

Thanks
 
#33 ·
I want to say on mine the one on the RCA side had to be grounded for the PAC to come on, but I have seen others say there's worked without it. I'm about 95% sure the other one the brown wire I just taped up cause the instruction manual(as crappy as it is) said it was connected internally to the other sides ground. It seems the PAC was made for many year makes and models and they have extra wires depending on which cables comes for which vehicle. I'm assuming the cruze is just simplified and does not need some of them. Again though if it comes on without grounding you are good to go, if it doesn't come on attach a little wire and ground it out and see if it comes on. If you remember take a photo of which ones are set up and post the photo in here or even another thread (post the link on here) labeled PAC AA-GM44 breakdown, and we can help people in the future.
 
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