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Reverend Red Bull
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Discussion Starter #1
Not a bad-looking cam/top end for a 13 year old, 122,000 mile vehicle.

0531152001.jpg

This is the right-hand bank on the 3.7L overhead-cam V6 in my Jeep when I replaced the valve cover last night. Shows what decent oil and careful maintenance will do for an engine.

Only complain is that I can remember when you could do 2 valve cover gaskets in 20 minutes, and it took me all day just to do this one. It's pretty bad when you have to remove the coolant tank, its mounting bracket, the oil fill tube, the cold air intake (would have been worse if I still had all the factor air box junk up there), disconnect the heater lines (which dumps about 2 gallons of antifreeze), disconnect the wiring from all 3 injectors and all three spark plug coils, along with countless miscellaneous wire clips, etc. just to change a valve cover gasket. I'm just hoping I don't have to disconnect fuel lines or remove the power steering pump to get to the other side when I get around to that.
 

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Reverend Red Bull
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1,017 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Forgot to mention: Timing chain (didn't get it in the shot - just off of the right edge of the photo) is as tight as can be also, no wiggle to it at all.
 

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Administrator, Resident Tater Salad
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16,576 Posts
Just curious - what oil do you use in it? Do you get the massive amounts of yellow goop in the wintertime in the oil cap/PCV thingy?

For as easy as some things are to work on the Liberty, some (like this) are VERY difficult. That and the high pressure PS hose were an adventure on my dad's.
 

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Reverend Red Bull
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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Just curious - what oil do you use in it? Do you get the massive amounts of yellow goop in the wintertime in the oil cap/PCV thingy?

For as easy as some things are to work on the Liberty, some (like this) are VERY difficult. That and the high pressure PS hose were an adventure on my dad's.
I used to get the yellow goop really bad. In fact, this valve cover gasket was a result of the yellow goop getting so bad that it froze the PCV valve shut and over-pressurized the crankcase. The pressure found its way out of the lower-rear corner of the right-hand valve cover, where the oil would drip on the cat (or resonator or whatever that bulge is in the down-pipe) and made it smoke like a mosquito truck.

I've since fixed that by updating the PCV system to the 2007 configuration of the 3.7/4.7L. You replace the oil-fill tube with a 2007 version, remove the old PCV valve and tubing, remove the left-rear crankcase breather and replace it with a 2007-spec PCV valve, and connect the PCV back to the throttle body with $1.50/foot vacuum or fuel line hose from the parts store.

I ran regular Valvoline in it from 31k-75k (before I knew much about oil or did much work myself), Valvoline MaxLife 5w-30 from 75k until I did the PCV revision around 116k, and I've run Valvoline MaxLife Full-synthetic since the PCV revision (2 changes). I change it every 4000 miles, or once a year if I haven't driven it 4000.
 

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Administrator, Resident Tater Salad
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I've since fixed that by updating the PCV system to the 2007 configuration of the 3.7L. You replace the oil-fill tube with a 2007 version, remove the old PCV valve and tubing, remove the left-rear crankcase breather and replace it with a 2007-spec PCV valve, and connect the PCV back to the throttle body with $1.50/foot vacuum or fuel line hose from the parts store.
That's something I didn't know about - thanks! We'll have to do this too.
 

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Only complain is that I can remember when you could do 2 valve cover gaskets in 20 minutes, and it took me all day just to do this one. It's pretty bad when you have to remove the coolant tank, its mounting bracket, the oil fill tube, the cold air intake (would have been worse if I still had all the factor air box junk up there), disconnect the heater lines (which dumps about 2 gallons of antifreeze), disconnect the wiring from all 3 injectors and all three spark plug coils, along with countless miscellaneous wire clips, etc. just to change a valve cover gasket. I'm just hoping I don't have to disconnect fuel lines or remove the power steering pump to get to the other side when I get around to that.
:th_dblthumb2:

I had to take off the intake manifold on my 2.4 H.O. Turbo Chrysler when the #2 plug tube seal started leaking.

I can't think of any other 4 cylinder that I had to take the intake off of.



Quaker State Ultimate Durability at about 100,000 miles
 
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