Good info. I saw the post where you mentioned all that, and look forward to seeing someone come up with an external check valve to remedy the poor design.Welcome, seems you're new here.
On a properly working engine, the catch can is useless. Absolutely pointless. All you're doing is catching condensation, which you'll find yourself emptying regularly without any notable oil loss on the dipstick.
In a 15,622 mile drain interval using AMSOIL Signature Series, I did not have to top off once, even after swapping the filter. If my oil consumption, while tuned and while datalogging for two tuning companies during that time, did not show any consequential amount of oil consumption, the catch can is nothing more than a waste of money. Furthermore, the valve cover already has an oil separator built in, which, when the whole system is working correctly, is more than adequate. It is assumed you are using a synthetic oil of some kind.
All that being said, yours obviously wasn't functioning correctly if the check valve in the intake manifold had failed, which was the primary cause of your oil consumption. My intake runners as well were soaked in oil when mine failed and was replaced by warranty, and I was losing a solid quart per 500 miles. This will cause all sorts of problems, but since my dealer replaced the valve cover and intake manifold, I'm back to not burning any oil and currently have ~7,000 miles on this change. Side note: the corrugated hose currently does have a check valve at the turbo inlet.
I've designed a solution that would involve plugging up the PCV check valve port on the intake manifold and routing an external one, which would permanently and reliably solve the problem of GM's **** design. You can find my updates on that toward the end of the thread linked below. I'm waiting on two more parts to arrive in the mail and I'll have it all installed.
Another side note, cheap catch cans are not 100% efficient (no catch cans are in fact, but a good baffled catch can will come much closer).
My car is bone stock, aside from CAI. Max boost I have ever seen on my digital boost gauge is 17 psi. I found oil in my stock corrugated line when I replaced it and the valve cover, hence the reason I went ahead and installed the catch can. I dont "need" a catch can on my 824hp Z06, but I have one on it too. Doesn't hurt anything. I like having a "sump" prior to my power adder that can easily visually indicate some sort of failure, or catch oil before it is eaten by an impeller and sent to the intercooler. It's an experience thing.This is an obsolete design (not the intent design, this is concept stuff, no worries):
The new design has better clip geometry, wrench hex, double o-ring grooves, etc. By February, we should expect to see a custom AL fitting prototypes to adapt to the Intake Manifold pcv nipple and the Turbo pcv nipple, likely -8AN thread. The Turbo side adapter fitting will have a built in check valve. A kit with hoses and catch can will come soon after. My motivation here is finding oil in the whole intake track from the turbo to the TB (I did a ZZP FMIC install) AND I purchased a Junkyard engine and the intake tubes were dripping with oil, that was a stock car too mine is boosted 19-20 psi.
I installed a FMIC on my car at 38k miles, I could see a trail of buildup in the turbo inlet for from the PCV and fresh oil residue in all stock pipes and intercooler.I find that on daily driven vehicles, it becomes an annoyance and a chore.
The valve cover has a built in oil separator. Refer to the link I provided earlier on the explanation of the PCV system.I installed a FMIC on my car at 38k miles, I could see a trail of buildup in the turbo inlet for from the PCV and fresh oil residue in all stock pipes and intercooler.
The next week or so, I bought a junk yard engine, pulled from a car with 60k miles. While I was inspecting the engine, I moved one of the intake pipes they included out of the way. A couple minutes later, there was a puddle about 8" in diameter of oil, originating from the tube.
The only possible sources I envision are that PCV tube and maybe the turbo compressor leaking oil. It's totally possible I misunderstand the PCV system, I have not completely analyzed all failure modes that would cause excessive oil in the intake track. Right now I see the catch can implementation as a "brute force" aid that may cover up an actual deficient PCV system, regardless it should help prevent excessive buildup in the intake track assuming you're using a functional air/oil separator.
The basic concept is that you find a self-drilling screw and washer (plastic washer might be appropriate), and put a nice blot of epoxy on the thread underneath the washer, then with a long screwdriver, screw the washer into the hole where the check valve used to be. Of course, you need to hose that entire area down with brake clean first and scrub it nice and good to make sure the JB weld adheres, but the washer should press JB weld through the holes and expand out the other side as you're tightening it down. Being careful not to over-tighten and strip the hole, tighten that screw until it comes to a stop, and the washer should effectively seal against the all of the holes where the check valve used to be and will block it off permanently. If using a plastic washer, there's a plastic bonder epoxy that loctite makes that is rated resistant to gasoline, diesel fuel, and motor oil. This specific epoxy is also rated for aluminum and stainless steel, and you can find it at your local hardware store.What I could use is some more detailed info on plugging the intake with epoxy.