Chevrolet Cruze Forums banner

1 - 20 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
What causes oil consumption? The last time my mom got her oil changed the dealer said that there was nothing showing on the dipstick. Now after about 1500-2000 miles the oil appears to be down 1/2 a quart. She gets the oil changed every 10k which is when the oil life system shows its due. Also the car is a 2012 Cruze LT with 100k miles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
145 Posts
I'm sure someone will come along with a better answer, but oil can generally only leave the engine two ways. It can leak out through the oil pan (unburned), or it can leak through the piston rings (burned in combustion chamber). Fixing an oil pan leak is easy, fixing piston rings is not.

Although any oil loss is concerning, if you are burning oil, 1/2 quart every 2000 miles is acceptable. You should of course look first to see if oil is dripping. If not, maybe try one of the high mileage oils? I was honestly surprised that my 1.4T over 100K didn't use a drop of full synthetic oil (Pennzoil UP) between the first oil drain.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
820 Posts
What causes oil consumption? The last time my mom got her oil changed the dealer said that there was nothing showing on the dipstick. Now after about 1500-2000 miles the oil appears to be down 1/2 a quart. She gets the oil changed every 10k which is when the oil life system shows its due. Also the car is a 2012 Cruze LT with 100k miles.
That's surprising, i push my car hard and its tuned too, and i never see any oil consumption, so...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I'm sure someone will come along with a better answer, but oil can generally only leave the engine two ways. It can leak out through the oil pan (unburned), or it can leak through the piston rings (burned in combustion chamber). Fixing an oil pan leak is easy, fixing piston rings is not.

Although any oil loss is concerning, if you are burning oil, 1/2 quart every 2000 miles is acceptable. You should of course look first to see if oil is dripping. If not, maybe try one of the high mileage oils? I was honestly surprised that my 1.4T over 100K didn't use a drop of full synthetic oil (Pennzoil UP) between the first oil drain.

No visible signs of oil leaking but the water pump and electronic throttle module was replaced within the last few months.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
310 Posts
There are other places oil can leak (valve cover and head gaskets come to mind), but zen_ hit the big ones. Regardless, if it isn't dripping from anywhere, then you are burning oil. My '14 LTZ only has 23k but takes no oil between 5k oil changes.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
10,296 Posts
Only have 40K miles on my 2012 2LT, oil consumption is zero. Only use top tier 91 octane ethanol free gas. Toss in a can of Seafoam before every oil change in the fuel tank to get rid of that carbon build up.

Keep the engine clean, any oil leaks would be obvious, but carbon build up on the piston rings and in particular on the intake valves is still an age old problem.

My oil level gets checked with every tank fill up, use to have full service gas stations with cheap gas, now you pay a fortune for this stuff and have to do it yourself.

Does your mom even check her oil level after a change? Can be all over the place and you don't know what the heck they are putting in. Also take a hair, coat it with a bit of grease and paste that on the oil filter cap to the housing. May find they never changed your filter but still charged you for one.

Grease is spraying all those rubber bushings with silicone, dey don't do dis either.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,528 Posts
For starters, the oil level should be checked the morning after a oil change.....this has given the oil the opportunity to fully drain back into the oil pan.
This way you can determine the actual start of test for consumption level.

I mention this because there are variations to dipstick length.....slight but still some are shorter/longer than others.

The oil level should then be checked weekly (actually, checking level ever week or two before startup should be a part of your ritual) and see if it actually is dropping from your starting point.

Although the 1.4t, for the most part, seems very good at not consuming oil, that doesn't mean none of them do.....these are machines and there are variables.

Oil, besides loosing it from leakage, can be consumed in several ways......one or more piston oil control rings may not seal as good as the rest and oil can get into the combustion chamber and burned.....this 16 valve engine has a oil seal at each valve stem and each of those is a potental source of oil loss.....the turbo charger seals can contribute to oil consumption as well.

If your engine actually has consumed a half quart of oil over 2000 miles, that usage is so low the odds of putting your finger on the actual source is highly unlikely.
Your consumption, if actual, falls well within industry acceptable consumption for any engine......in general, one quart per 1000 miles is considered acceptable.

Although you are using the oil life moniter to key your oil changes, I believe the manual calls for oil changes at 7500 miles or the OLM, whichever comes FIRST.

The oil has lost a great deal of its ability to carry the various acids and debris that are a result of combustion blow by and has broken down chemically at 7500 miles and beyond and you may find the majority of consumption occurs beyond 7000 miles because of this.

If you were using a true synthetic oil I'd be more comfortable with your 10k intervals but since you are going to the dealer I must assume you are being sold Dexos.....which is a parasynthetic blend and goes downhill fast beyond 5000 miles.

For now, moniter oil level by checking it before the first start of the day.....you may not even have anything to be concerned over.

Rob
 

·
Administrator, Resident Tater Salad
Joined
·
16,561 Posts
Robby, you just typed out a post longer than Nick!

In addition to leaky oil pan gaskets, These cars may also leak/burn oil due to a bad PCV system. If your mother has ever had the valve cover replaced, check for oil leaking around the throttle body area. If you do see oil there, find the corrugated plastic hose that wraps around the left side of the engine and remove it from the intake manifold. Inside, you should be able to see a little orange check valve - if you don't, Chevy has been replacing a lot of intake manifolds under warranty.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,615 Posts
The 2011 and 2012 had a longer oil change interval programmed into the oil life monitor than the 2013+ models. Rather, they reduced it when they realized their oil wasn't good enough to go that long. I would advise no more than 6k miles with that oil.

Any oil consumption in this car is abnormal. I went 15,622 miles on the last change of oil and there was no noticeable oil consumption in that duration. Any oil consumption in this car indicates something isn't right.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
10,296 Posts
Robby is okay, mentioned valve seals that I didn't. Recall the GM 4.3 L V-6 just using an O-ring between the valve stem and valve spring retainer. Nasty job. But Fel-Pro came to the rescue, ours with 65K miles on it was using a quart every thousand miles.

See Fel-Pro is also making valve seals for the Cruze 1.4L, FEL-PRO Part # SS72935 .

View attachment 154970

Sure looks like O-rings just like that 4.3L.

Before this job was only measuring a CR of around 100 psi, not one, but three cans of Seafoam was required to clean the carbon out of this engine, CR also shot up to 150 psi on all six. Using ground oil, consumption dropped to a quart every 5,000 miles. Could be the problem.

Hey, Mr. Blackburn, OP already hit that 100K mile mark on his mom's Cruze. Parts aren't bad for valve seals, hate to see the labor charges.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
820 Posts
I checked my oil this mornin just to be sure, since i posted here i had no oil consumption, and... It didnt move at all, lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
Oil, besides loosing it from leakage, can be consumed in several ways......one or more piston oil control rings may not seal as good as the rest and oil can get into the combustion chamber and burned.....
My guess would be her Cruze's engine was NOT broken in properly and therefore the oil control rings never properly expanded and formed a tight seal.

The engine was probably babied when it was new. That is one thing you do not want to do to a brand new engine.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,615 Posts
My guess would be her Cruze's engine was NOT broken in properly and therefore the oil control rings never properly expanded and formed a tight seal.

The engine was probably babied when it was new. That is one thing you do not want to do to a brand new engine.
They expand and contract every time the engine heats and cools. The oil control rings are not the cause of your consumption.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,918 Posts
For about 65K my car never used/lost a drop of oil even at 7K oil changes, but last oil change I noticed I was at the add marks on the dip stick at 6K. Watching more closely this time I seem to be loosing about 1/4 quart every 2000 miles. I can find no visible leaks, don't smell any oil so I'm hoping this loss is a sign of my valve cover/PCV failing. 10K so far and no CEL or any indication of a problem.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,615 Posts
For about 65K my car never used/lost a drop of oil even at 7K oil changes, but last oil change I noticed I was at the add marks on the dip stick at 6K. Watching more closely this time I seem to be loosing about 1/4 quart every 2000 miles. I can find no visible leaks, don't smell any oil so I'm hoping this loss is a sign of my valve cover/PCV failing. 10K so far and no CEL or any indication of a problem.
From what we've been seeing lately on the FB group, it could also be a sign of the check valve inside the intake manifold failing. Unfortunately, that is a far more expensive repair.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
10,296 Posts
Don't make a cent by pushing Seafoam, but been dumping a can in a full gas tank for years before every oil change. And seen with my own eyes, really cleans up that carbon build up. PCV works a lot hard with more blow by, and carbon causes this, and also gums up.

Rarely change a PCV valve, but sure have to clean them.

Take this for what its worth, carbon is the problem, also leads to misfire that can fry your cat. Chain reaction.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Please forgive that I reply to another older thread. I think my 1.4 engine's cylinder head valve seals are bad and leak oil into the combustion cylinders due to plug fouling, consistent compression psi readings for the four cylinders, and minor oscillations of vacuum while engine is at idle, and presence of carbon black in the Cats and exhaust pipe.

My question is in the readers opinion would tool at Amazon link:

https://www.amazon.com/Yaheetech-Overhead-Remover-Installer-Compressor/dp/B01MU2XO2D/ref=pd_sbs_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01MU2XO2D&pd_rd_r=7eee8558-e901-11e8-9fce-e3b457f31c52&pd_rd_w=wF8yY&pd_rd_wg=scyxq&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=7d5d9c3c-5e01-44ac-97fd-261afd40b865&pf_rd_r=6RKXPKS2WNPJSMQQTEXC&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=6RKXPKS2WNPJSMQQTEXC

work to allow valve spring compression for keeper removal in lieu of special GM tool EN-6086? The later hinges on a beam while the former pivots on its round bar beam that mounts over the cylinder head.

Neither is the tool shown in video at

https://youtu.be/tI7b9o9sg2w

where tech is replacing stock valve springs with stiffer springs to allow for better performance at high rpm.

I think to repair my engine and stop its oil consumption, the seals must be replaced. The seals for a Chevy Cruze/Sonic 1.4L engine depicted at

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6999452&cc=1446770&jsn=10474

look like small hockey pucks. I fail to understand how they can be removed from a cylinder head using the stem seal pliers depicted at

https://www.alldatadiy.com/alldatadiy/DIY~V88194738~C48872~R0~OD~N/0/159022445/162404551/164672781/164672786/34853741/100411974/34853743/34872041/34854826

Can anybody clue me as to what tool is actually used to remove those valve stem seals?

Thanks
 

·
Administrator, Resident Tater Salad
Joined
·
16,561 Posts
Please forgive that I reply to another older thread. I think my 1.4 engine's cylinder head valve seals are bad and leak oil into the combustion cylinders due to plug fouling, consistent compression psi readings for the four cylinders, and minor oscillations of vacuum while engine is at idle, and presence of carbon black in the Cats and exhaust pipe.

My question is in the readers opinion would tool at Amazon link:

https://www.amazon.com/Yaheetech-Overhead-Remover-Installer-Compressor/dp/B01MU2XO2D/ref=pd_sbs_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01MU2XO2D&pd_rd_r=7eee8558-e901-11e8-9fce-e3b457f31c52&pd_rd_w=wF8yY&pd_rd_wg=scyxq&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=7d5d9c3c-5e01-44ac-97fd-261afd40b865&pf_rd_r=6RKXPKS2WNPJSMQQTEXC&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=6RKXPKS2WNPJSMQQTEXC

work to allow valve spring compression for keeper removal in lieu of special GM tool EN-6086? The later hinges on a beam while the former pivots on its round bar beam that mounts over the cylinder head.

Neither is the tool shown in video at

https://youtu.be/tI7b9o9sg2w

where tech is replacing stock valve springs with stiffer springs to allow for better performance at high rpm.

I think to repair my engine and stop its oil consumption, the seals must be replaced. The seals for a Chevy Cruze/Sonic 1.4L engine depicted at

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6999452&cc=1446770&jsn=10474

look like small hockey pucks. I fail to understand how they can be removed from a cylinder head using the stem seal pliers depicted at

https://www.alldatadiy.com/alldatadiy/DIY~V88194738~C48872~R0~OD~N/0/159022445/162404551/164672781/164672786/34853741/100411974/34853743/34872041/34854826

Can anybody clue me as to what tool is actually used to remove those valve stem seals?

Thanks
The PCV system and all associated check valves are 100% intact?

We haven't yet seen bad stem seals in a 1.4T (around here anyway), with a few upwards of 300k on the clock. However, the PCV system (intake manifold check valve + valve cover) is basically a 100% failure rate.

Black exhaust pipe is totally normal on a turbo engine. They over-fuel to keep cylinder temps down, which makes for a lot of carbon and puffs of black smoke when you floor it.

Turbo failure is also not uncommon, ESPECIALLY on the earlier years. Check to see if your turbo oil feed line has the foil wrapper on it; that's the updated line. Turbos can dump oil on either the exhaust (white smoke) or intake side (blue smoke/lots of oil around throttle body).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
The PCV system and all associated check valves are 100% intact?

We haven't yet seen bad stem seals in a 1.4T (around here anyway), with a few upwards of 300k on the clock. However, the PCV system (intake manifold check valve + valve cover) is basically a 100% failure rate.

Black exhaust pipe is totally normal on a turbo engine. They over-fuel to keep cylinder temps down, which makes for a lot of carbon and puffs of black smoke when you floor it.

Turbo failure is also not uncommon, ESPECIALLY on the earlier years. Check to see if your turbo oil feed line has the foil wrapper on it; that's the updated line. Turbos can dump oil on either the exhaust (white smoke) or intake side (blue smoke/lots of oil around throttle body).
Thank you. The new intake I installed has less than 20 hours operation time and the replacement turbo has about 15 hours run time on it. The replacement valve/cam cover has maybe 25 hours operating time. I will check the 2011 LT for oil in the turbo inlet and for integrity of the orange nipple inside the intake PCV port. I need a new can of starting either to check the hose that routes from the intake PCV port to turbo inlet, so off to WalMart I go.

However, I must abort my potential plan to replace the valve seals with the head on the block because as it turns out GM in their wisdom decided to use intake and exhaust valves with three groove keepers. Hence Lisle Tool 36050 valve keeper removal/installer tool will not work. To remove the valve springs, one needs a compression type removal tool such as the EN-6086 remover/installer tool discussed in the shop manual, or the head need be removed and C-clamp style compression tool be used on the work table.

Okay then, so I'll do another compression test and perform leak down tests for all four cylinders then will post my data on Sunday evening.

I noticed that the engine's RPM will surge up to 3500 when slightly accelerating on the freeway from 65 mph up to 70 mph and remain at 3500 RPM for a few seconds and then drop back to about 3000 RPM. This may be due to my unsteady right foot on the throttle position accelerator or it may be due to a faulty Throttle Position Sensor. No CEL is illuminated. This is a bit strange to me. But then again this is my first experience with a turbo charger.

In other news, When I had finally completed the GM Drive Cycles to get the PCM to "Complete" its I/M Readiness Monitor parameters, I was driving to the inspection station for the car's smog check when the CEL lit up with a P0420 code. I informed the smog tech of this, and he recommended to me to put HEET methyl alcohol gas dryer additive in the fuel tank and then to drive until the code cleared. I did this and 75 miles later was able to pass OBD Smog Emissions testing and get a new "Safety Inspection" "Passed" report so I could renew my State of Texas Car Tax.

Thanks for helping me. Cheers. Have a Nice Day and Weekend. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
Top