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Hi all just noticed a oil smell once in a while for the past few weeks, but car was leaving no leaks on the ground or burning oil. Upon further inspection today found the oil cooler is leaking and sending a a drop of oil onto the cat and thats why Im smelling it. Its a 1.4 2011 LTZ auto my question is is it a O ring that can be replaced or is it the whole oil cooler. How hard of a job is it and what else should be replaced if Im taking all this apart to fix, other rubber lines, turbo feed etc. Thanks
 

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No Its the cooler behind that. Its the whole assembly that holds the filter. Its about 160.00 on rock auto looks like a bitch to change though. Have to pick some brains here to see whats involved. Im not taking it to dealer it will come out with more problems then went in plus its out of the extended warranty. I have 86000 miles only guess things go after coverage ends
 

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Oh, wow. First I've seen of this particular mishap. I'm anxious to see how this goes.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Seem to be coming from behind intake, cant get a good look at it exhaust manifold is in the way. It drips once in a while on the cat and you get a smell of oil burn. Seems like more towards back left of cooler.
 

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very common issue, you have to remove the oil cooler and replace the seal where it meets the block.
It is a good idea to also change the internal seal and the O ring while you have it off.
It is a bit of a pain, to do it right you have to remove the CAT and the exhaust manifold/turbo, there is a plastic oil return pipe on the bottom of the turbo held to the turbo with 2 8mm bolts that must be unbolted before you try to lift the turbo off otherwise it will break, there is also a coolant pipe from the turbo to the block under exhaust manifold on the passenger side.
 

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Well, I knew this would happen sooner or later, but now I am in the same boat.
With 130,000 miles, my oil cooler is leaking.

Of course I did my research and found the same linked youtube video, rock auto link, and this thread :)

With regard to replacement of the oil cooler, this (and other threads), along with the YouTube videos indicate that the cat and turbo need to be removed in order to replace the oil cooler.
However, looking at the replacement process on AllData, there is absolutely NO indication that states the turbo needs to be removed.

My question is, can the oil cooler really be replaced without removing the turbo as AllData states???

Edit: I now see that AllData does state to remove the cat so I edited my info above.
 

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I just completed this repair. I am a weekend mechanic and not afraid to get my hands dirty or screw stuff up. It took me a solid 8 hours to complete this repair with a couple trips to the auto parts store as well as the hardware store.

My 2012 LTZ gets an oil change every 5000 miles so at 105,000 I slid under the car and noticed a small leak dripping on to the cat (wifes car and she did mention a smell but I didnt see anything top side and there were no marks on the ground). After surfing threads on this site I determined "oil cooler seals leaking".

Here is a little of my experience for anyone preparing to do the same oil cooler leak repair themselves.

This has the potential to be a messy job with both coolant and oil. I drained the oil and removed the oil filter as if I were completing an oil change. I replaced the oil filter cover (without new filter) and put drain plug back. I do believe this step lessened the amount of oil spillage when I removed the oil cooler. I attached a 5/16 rubber hose to the drain pipe of the radiator and drained it until no more coolant came out. Remember on both oil and coolant to let it breath top side by removing caps.

I soaked the bolts to the cat flange/exhaust pipe before I began the oil and coolant drain and hit the bolts more then once and sadly I still busted the one closest to the oil pan. Being able to purchase one nut and bolt that matched was not immediately possible and I did not want to purchase the entire flange for $30+ so I ran to the hardware store and replaced the busted bolt (at reinstall time) with a 5/16 x 1.5 bolt and nut at a cost of less then a dollar. Pre buy this combo just in case, maybe a couple sets then you won't need to make a run for $1 worth of parts in the event you bust one as well.

In doing the removal and install I used a variety of metric sockets, wrenches and torque fittings (the largest was a t40) as well as medium and long ratchet extensions. Here is a parts list of what I replaced keeping in mind that the engine had 105,000 miles on it so I did a little more then just the oil cooler seals. Oil cooler seal 55565385 - oil cooler seal 55568536 - oil cooler gasket 55568539 - turbo oil feed pipe 25198546 (was not leaking but was original part, since I had to remove the original I replaced it with a new one which has the double seal instead of the stock single seal) - turbo cooler feed pipe 55568031 - turbo cooling pipe 55567067 - two pipe connectors 55572127 2x - exhaust manifold gasket 55565348.

All the parts were purchased on line and with delivery was around $100. In addition to the above parts I was prepared to do an oil change so I had a 5qt jug of oil, oil filter and o-ring, and two gallons of antifreeze to replace the fluid I drained and lost from removing the oil cooler and turbo.

There were a lot of electrical connections that needed to be disconnected and it seemed that each one was different in it's method. One connector had a small metal clamp that needs to be popped out, be careful, it might shoot somewhere and then you have to go hunting (maybe this happened to me ;-) ). The hoses and connectors have been heated and cooled for a long time so removal was not that simple, with that said I did brake one of the squeeze connectors so make sure you have some hose clamps on hand.

When taking off the exhaust manifold, the bolt farthest left (facing engine from front of car) came out stud and nut together. That is the same way it went back on. This is also the most difficult to remove due to its location.

As pcdj64 stated above there is a plastic oil return pipe on the bottom of the turbo held to the turbo with 2 8mm bolts that must be unbolted before you try to lift the turbo off otherwise it will break.

Before replacing the oil cooler seals and gaskets, I did clean the unit so that chunks of grunge didn't get stuck anywhere. When removing the old seals/gasket there was some residue left on the unit that I scrapped off with a razor blade so that there was a clean seal when the new parts were put in place. It is at this time that I also installed the new oil filter and o ring for the oil change. Do not mount the new turbo cooler feed pipes at this time, at least I didn't. I first installed the cooler back on the block. Once in place I put the exhaust manifold and turbo (these came out in one piece, no need to remove the clamp holding the two parts together) in position but not on the manifold studs. I then threaded the two 17mm pipe connectors (55572127) into their holes on the turbo making sure to not mix up which hole they went in to, and then bolted the exhaust manifold in place. Once exhaust manifold was secure I finished tightening the 17mm connectors all the way (I went as far as I could hand tightening them at first) and then installed the connection to the oil cooler as well as the other ends to their respective connections.

I know this post was long, but I hope it helps anyone doing the same repair in saving time and/or unnecessary steps along the way. I also know there was a lot more to it then what I posted but these were the things that caused me the most time or potential trouble.

*mikestony - the exhaust manifold and turbo have to come out
 

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Good write up, Thanks.

One small issue, The hardware store nut/bolt you listed as a 5/16ths by 1.5.. I think you mean this was an 8mm*1.5mm pitch thread yes?
 

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Took the busted nut and bolt in and matched the length. What I purchased was a 5/16th inch head by 1.5 inch in length bolt and a 5/16th inch nut. As long as the nut screwed on to the bolt as far as I was concerned it was a match. I actually purchased a few combinations of carriage bolts, washers and nuts to see which fit in the best. Lowes part number 63404 - 63338 - 61828 - 63318 - 63409. Not sure about pitch thread and stuff like that. It fit, it tightened and secured, it worked.
 

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I just completed this repair. I am a weekend mechanic and not afraid to get my hands dirty or screw stuff up. It took me a solid 8 hours to complete this repair with a couple trips to the auto parts store as well as the hardware store.

My 2012 LTZ gets an oil change every 5000 miles so at 105,000 I slid under the car and noticed a small leak dripping on to the cat (wifes car and she did mention a smell but I didnt see anything top side and there were no marks on the ground). After surfing threads on this site I determined "oil cooler seals leaking".

Here is a little of my experience for anyone preparing to do the same oil cooler leak repair themselves.

This has the potential to be a messy job with both coolant and oil. I drained the oil and removed the oil filter as if I were completing an oil change. I replaced the oil filter cover (without new filter) and put drain plug back. I do believe this step lessened the amount of oil spillage when I removed the oil cooler. I attached a 5/16 rubber hose to the drain pipe of the radiator and drained it until no more coolant came out. Remember on both oil and coolant to let it breath top side by removing caps.

I soaked the bolts to the cat flange/exhaust pipe before I began the oil and coolant drain and hit the bolts more then once and sadly I still busted the one closest to the oil pan. Being able to purchase one nut and bolt that matched was not immediately possible and I did not want to purchase the entire flange for $30+ so I ran to the hardware store and replaced the busted bolt (at reinstall time) with a 5/16 x 1.5 bolt and nut at a cost of less then a dollar. Pre buy this combo just in case, maybe a couple sets then you won't need to make a run for $1 worth of parts in the event you bust one as well.

In doing the removal and install I used a variety of metric sockets, wrenches and torque fittings (the largest was a t40) as well as medium and long ratchet extensions. Here is a parts list of what I replaced keeping in mind that the engine had 105,000 miles on it so I did a little more then just the oil cooler seals. Oil cooler seal 55565385 - oil cooler seal 55568536 - oil cooler gasket 55568539 - turbo oil feed pipe 25198546 (was not leaking but was original part, since I had to remove the original I replaced it with a new one which has the double seal instead of the stock single seal) - turbo cooler feed pipe 55568031 - turbo cooling pipe 55567067 - two pipe connectors 55572127 2x - exhaust manifold gasket 55565348.

All the parts were purchased on line and with delivery was around $100. In addition to the above parts I was prepared to do an oil change so I had a 5qt jug of oil, oil filter and o-ring, and two gallons of antifreeze to replace the fluid I drained and lost from removing the oil cooler and turbo.

There were a lot of electrical connections that needed to be disconnected and it seemed that each one was different in it's method. One connector had a small metal clamp that needs to be popped out, be careful, it might shoot somewhere and then you have to go hunting (maybe this happened to me ;-) ). The hoses and connectors have been heated and cooled for a long time so removal was not that simple, with that said I did brake one of the squeeze connectors so make sure you have some hose clamps on hand.

When taking off the exhaust manifold, the bolt farthest left (facing engine from front of car) came out stud and nut together. That is the same way it went back on. This is also the most difficult to remove due to its location.

As pcdj64 stated above there is a plastic oil return pipe on the bottom of the turbo held to the turbo with 2 8mm bolts that must be unbolted before you try to lift the turbo off otherwise it will break.

Before replacing the oil cooler seals and gaskets, I did clean the unit so that chunks of grunge didn't get stuck anywhere. When removing the old seals/gasket there was some residue left on the unit that I scrapped off with a razor blade so that there was a clean seal when the new parts were put in place. It is at this time that I also installed the new oil filter and o ring for the oil change. Do not mount the new turbo cooler feed pipes at this time, at least I didn't. I first installed the cooler back on the block. Once in place I put the exhaust manifold and turbo (these came out in one piece, no need to remove the clamp holding the two parts together) in position but not on the manifold studs. I then threaded the two 17mm pipe connectors (55572127) into their holes on the turbo making sure to not mix up which hole they went in to, and then bolted the exhaust manifold in place. Once exhaust manifold was secure I finished tightening the 17mm connectors all the way (I went as far as I could hand tightening them at first) and then installed the connection to the oil cooler as well as the other ends to their respective connections.

I know this post was long, but I hope it helps anyone doing the same repair in saving time and/or unnecessary steps along the way. I also know there was a lot more to it then what I posted but these were the things that caused me the most time or potential trouble.

*mikestony - the exhaust manifold and turbo have to come out
Awesome explanation, thanks!!
So far I have ordered the entire oil cooler assy (which appears to come with the seals; from rockauto).

Now, I've taken the rest of your part numbers listed, searched and found them and will order those.

One last thing, so I don't have to stop and run and order parts, you mention the plastic oil return pipe from the turbo. I think I'm just going to replace that so I don't have any issues later. Would this be the part?
https://www.newgmparts.com/oem-parts/gm-oil-inlet-tube-55587854?origin=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQiAoY7VBRDtARIsAHWoO-L8__cTogWBTY2vN8OnSm2wzf2lk3otNrw_CxImtNjXBl9h4ipYTHQaAvBbEALw_wcB

I think it is. I have a 2012 Cruze LT with I believe should be the same engine as your LTZ
 

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That is the part for the oil return from the turbo. If I ever have to take mine off I am thinking of making the plastic part out of steel on the lathe.. I assume the pipe is some kind of flex hose?

So I'm thinking of using something like flex crankcase breather hose that is hoseclamped to the steel part and the new part I will make.

It should work right?
 

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That is the part for the oil return from the turbo. If I ever have to take mine off I am thinking of making the plastic part out of steel on the lathe.. I assume the pipe is some kind of flex hose?

So I'm thinking of using something like flex crankcase breather hose that is hoseclamped to the steel part and the new part I will make.

It should work right?
Not sure if you can fabricate it to accommodate the 2 o-rings and then fit it into the block? I'm not a lathe guy so maybe it is possible.

I've seen the video of the guy replacing his oil cooler and he snapped that oil return line and it was just brittle plastic.
 

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Oh yes the O-ring grooves are easy to do, you just grind a piece of tool steel to the same width as the groove and cut.. Then make a hose barb for the part the will then stick out of the block onto which a rubber hose would push

The bigger question is.. Is there enough room to accommodate a hose clamp at each end of the new rubber hose?

Actually thinking about it.. I can just safety wire the hose at each end which takes up zero space..:)
 
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