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So for the last couple months I’ve been smelling something burning when I start my car. Took it to the dealer on Friday and they said that my oil cooler was leaking oil onto my converter and it’s a 1000$ fix. Got a second opinion from Midas and they said my car oil cooler isn’t leaking. They said it looked like the last people to change my oil got a little messy. They were only back there for like 8 minutes. Now I need to go somewhere else to get another opinion as I can’t leave a leaking oil cooler alone if that’s what it is and I can’t give 1000$ away for no reason. One morning and one morning only when it was like -22 outside I found coolant and oil in the snow under my car. The link below is a pic I took..coolant is to the left of the oil if you’re facing forward. Car has 60k on it. 2015. Anyone have any ideas what’s going on here? Again I smell burning fluids every morning when I start it before work.

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So for the last couple months I’ve been smelling something burning when I start my car. Took it to the dealer on Friday and they said that my oil cooler was leaking oil onto my converter and it’s a 1000$ fix. Got a second opinion from Midas and they said my car oil cooler isn’t leaking. They said it looked like the last people to change my oil got a little messy. They were only back there for like 8 minutes. Now I need to go somewhere else to get another opinion as I can’t leave a leaking oil cooler alone if that’s what it is and I can’t give 1000$ away for no reason. One morning and one morning only when it was like -22 outside I found coolant and oil in the snow under my car. The link below is a pic I took..coolant is to the left of the oil if you’re facing forward. Car has 60k on it. 2015. Anyone have any ideas what’s going on here? Again I smell burning fluids every morning when I start it before work.

freeimagehosting.net/commercial-photography/"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/26iXGs9.jpg" alt="Commercial Photography"></a>
Could it be the oil spots are from the excess oil, as suggested by Midas, while the red spots are indeed coolant? Seems these cars have a reputation for leaking coolant :(

So maybe you don't need an oil cooler, but you do need to fix the cooling system? Hopefully that will be much less expensive to fix.

Doug

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2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red, 1.4T Auto
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The dealership loves to quote ridiculously high rates to replace the cooler. Im going to say it IS the oil cooler if the dealer says thats what it is. In my case I had the same issue oil dripping onto the converter. Dealer (in New Jersey) quotes $1200+ The cooler has 3 rubber seals in it. Just look up oil cooler seals. U drain oil & coolant & unbolt the oil & coolant lines from the turbo. Its 4 lines total that have to come off & the whole exhaust manifold manifold & turbo separates from the cat & u can flip it right up onto the valve cover. The oil cooler will be underneath the oil filter bolted to the block. you'll take that off & theres 3 rubber seals inside it that cook from the heat.It took me 2 full days to do this job myself But I was able to reuse the oil cooler, clamps, & coolant. My cost was around $68 vs the $1200 quoted at the dealer. The dealers like to sell EVERY fitting on the turbo, gaskets, etc whether or not theyre needed. Not sure what theyre doing with all the un needed stuff they bill for. Obviously u cant disassemble it yourself to see if they really DID put all new un needed stuff in there. Well u could to prove the point but then you'd just do the job yourself to begin with. :RantExplode:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The dealership loves to quote ridiculously high rates to replace the cooler. Im going to say it IS the oil cooler if the dealer says thats what it is. In my case I had the same issue oil dripping onto the converter. Dealer (in New Jersey) quotes $1200+ The cooler has 3 rubber seals in it. Just look up oil cooler seals. U drain oil & coolant & unbolt the oil & coolant lines from the turbo. Its 4 lines total that have to come off & the whole exhaust manifold manifold & turbo separates from the cat & u can flip it right up onto the valve cover. The oil cooler will be underneath the oil filter bolted to the block. you'll take that off & theres 3 rubber seals inside it that cook from the heat.It took me 2 full days to do this job myself But I was able to reuse the oil cooler, clamps, & coolant. My cost was around $68 vs the $1200 quoted at the dealer. The dealers like to sell EVERY fitting on the turbo, gaskets, etc whether or not theyre needed. Not sure what theyre doing with all the un needed stuff they bill for. Obviously u cant disassemble it yourself to see if they really DID put all new un needed stuff in there. Well u could to prove the point but then you'd just do the job yourself to begin with. <img src="http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/images/smilies/RantExplode.gif" border="0" alt="" title="RantExplode" class="inlineimg" />
Yes I’m thinking it is what they say it is too I took a pic of the cooler and it is damp looking. I’m not a mechanic by any means so I have no choice but to spend the money to get it fixed. My coolant res has no oil in it at all and i know that’s a symptom. And my car is totally dry on the bottom. No puddles anywhere. By cooler is damp. So looks like I’ll be spending a grand out of no where.
 

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2012 Chevy Cruze RS, this is my 7th Cruze, Bright Red LTZ RS, has to be an RS
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The 2015 I just bought smelled of coolant and I noticed it was running straight down to convertor. This car has the 1.8 but it's not a bad job. Took me About an hour to disassemble everything. The problem turned out to be a coolant pipe. The rubber orings just flatten out due to heat. Why in the world they put the oil cooler under the exhaust manifold (the hottest place on engine) is mind boggling. I just ordered everything, new oil cooler, cooler pipes, etc. I actually bought the car to flip but my nephew wasnts to buy it. Either way, it needs fixed. I just can't sell something that I know has an issue. It's just bad as the car only has 75k on it. The orings look like they're 50 years old
 
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