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We recently bought my wife a 2015 Cruze LT w/ Turbo. This is the first time I've delt with a car that has the cartridge style oil filter, I'm used to the canister style. I'm thinking about using an extended life synthetic oil with this car but it seems like there aren't many extended life oil filters out there that are compatible, they all seem to be the canister style. Some of the oils I'm looking at are good for 15,000-25,000 miles. Are the oil filters able to be changed in between oil changes without draining the oil? Any opinions on a good quality compatible oil filter for synthetic oils?

Also I see this model calls for 4.2qts of oil. Anyone have much experience doing oil changes on these models that call for 4.2qts? I know typically there is *some* oil left behind when you drain it. Should I be able to get away with only buying 4qts of oil?
 

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1. The old 2.2L Ecotec was ideally suited for changing the filter with minimal oil loss. I'm not sure about the 1.4 turbo.

2. Don't think of the top line on the dipstick as the 'full' line, think of it as the 'maximum' line.
Put four quarts in, and if the oil level stays above the minimum line everything's fine. If it drops to the minimum line, add a quart.
 

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You can change the oil filter with no oil loss.

Get the short shoulder socket for the housing.....mine is from Lisle(auto parts store item in the tool isle).
A correctly installed housing will require nothing more than a wrist twist to loosen....it is not meant to be tight since there is a 'O' ring seal.
The new filter (I only use OE) comes with a new 'O' ring.

Loosen the housing till the 'O' ring rises above the adapter on the block......this provides a air entrance so the housing can drain into the pan. Wait about five minutes.
Remove the housing, snap the filter out of the locating pins and discard. Note the location of the 'O' ring and R&R using the new one in the filter kit.....snap the new filter into the housing and re-install several turns by hand.....finish by using the socket and extension but remember.......just firmly tighten......there is really no torque involved (the housing is plastic).

If allowed the several minutes to drain you will lose no oil (maybe a drip) during the process.

Rob
 

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We recently bought my wife a 2015 Cruze LT w/ Turbo. This is the first time I've delt with a car that has the cartridge style oil filter, I'm used to the canister style. I'm thinking about using an extended life synthetic oil with this car but it seems like there aren't many extended life oil filters out there that are compatible, they all seem to be the canister style. Some of the oils I'm looking at are good for 15,000-25,000 miles. Are the oil filters able to be changed in between oil changes without draining the oil? Any opinions on a good quality compatible oil filter for synthetic oils?

Also I see this model calls for 4.2qts of oil. Anyone have much experience doing oil changes on these models that call for 4.2qts? I know typically there is *some* oil left behind when you drain it. Should I be able to get away with only buying 4qts of oil?
As Robby noted, you can change the oil filter without losing any oil. It's quick and simple. There are no extended life filters for the Gen1 1.4 Turbo.

The only oil rated for those intervals is AMSOIL's Signature Series. I generally recommend people just change the filter at 7500-10000 miles. Note that Mobil 1 EP advertises 15,000 mile drain intervals, but lists a long list of "severe service" caveats that revert you back to OEM drain intervals, and it's not a very good oil for turbo engines.
 

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1. The old 2.2L Ecotec was ideally suited for changing the filter with minimal oil loss. I'm not sure about the 1.4 turbo.

2. Don't think of the top line on the dipstick as the 'full' line, think of it as the 'maximum' line.
Put four quarts in, and if the oil level stays above the minimum line everything's fine. If it drops to the minimum line, add a quart.
One thing I have never completely figure out on this car is the maximum line. Is the maximum line the top line below the cross hatch, or is it the top of the cross hatch area? I thought it was the top line below the cross hatch, but I have seen people on this forum fill theirs to the top of the cross hatch area.

The dipstick on this car has always been a little confusing to me. I liked the old style better where it had lines for full, .75 quart, .5 quart, .25 quart and low. I like being accurate, but the oil level in this car doesn't seem to be about accuracy. The dipstick handle also gets extremely hot. Never had that on any other car.
 

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You can change the oil filter with no oil loss.

Get the short shoulder socket for the housing.....mine is from Lisle(auto parts store item in the tool isle).
A correctly installed housing will require nothing more than a wrist twist to loosen....it is not meant to be tight since there is a 'O' ring seal.
The new filter (I only use OE) comes with a new 'O' ring.

Loosen the housing till the 'O' ring rises above the adapter on the block......this provides a air entrance so the housing can drain into the pan. Wait about five minutes.
Remove the housing, snap the filter out of the locating pins and discard. Note the location of the 'O' ring and R&R using the new one in the filter kit.....snap the new filter into the housing and re-install several turns by hand.....finish by using the socket and extension but remember.......just firmly tighten......there is really no torque involved (the housing is plastic).

If allowed the several minutes to drain you will lose no oil (maybe a drip) during the process.

Rob
At the risk of sounding stupid, can you post a pic of the short shoulder socket? I'm getting stuck on the description.
 

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One thing I have never completely figure out on this car is the maximum line. Is the maximum line the top line below the cross hatch, or is it the top of the cross hatch area? I thought it was the top line below the cross hatch, but I have seen people on this forum fill theirs to the top of the cross hatch area.

The dipstick on this car has always been a little confusing to me. I liked the old style better where it had lines for full, .75 quart, .5 quart, .25 quart and low. I like being accurate, but the oil level in this car doesn't seem to be about accuracy. The dipstick handle also gets extremely hot. Never had that on any other car.
It's not that bad, Subaru you have to pull it multiple times and depending on the front or the back of the stick will give you 2 different readings. Reason you see folks check and still end up 2 quarts low before they act on it.
 

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You can change the oil filter with no oil loss.

Get the short shoulder socket for the housing.....mine is from Lisle(auto parts store item in the tool isle).
A correctly installed housing will require nothing more than a wrist twist to loosen....it is not meant to be tight since there is a 'O' ring seal.
The new filter (I only use OE) comes with a new 'O' ring.

Loosen the housing till the 'O' ring rises above the adapter on the block......this provides a air entrance so the housing can drain into the pan. Wait about five minutes.
Remove the housing, snap the filter out of the locating pins and discard. Note the location of the 'O' ring and R&R using the new one in the filter kit.....snap the new filter into the housing and re-install several turns by hand.....finish by using the socket and extension but remember.......just firmly tighten......there is really no torque involved (the housing is plastic).

If allowed the several minutes to drain you will lose no oil (maybe a drip) during the process.

Rob

I reposted this in another thread as I thought it fit with the topic pretty well. [h=1]DIY Oil Change Checklist[/h]
 

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At the risk of sounding stupid, can you post a pic of the short shoulder socket? I'm getting stuck on the description.
Search Lisle 13310 for better description and photo......this is a 24mm short socket, 3/8ths drive.

Hardly a stupid question.....I probably should have provided the info in my first response........old mechanic itis....we assume the world knows everything that we take for granted, in this case, specialty tools.

Rob
 

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We recently bought my wife a 2015 Cruze LT w/ Turbo. This is the first time I've delt with a car that has the cartridge style oil filter, I'm used to the canister style. I'm thinking about using an extended life synthetic oil with this car but it seems like there aren't many extended life oil filters out there that are compatible, they all seem to be the canister style. Some of the oils I'm looking at are good for 15,000-25,000 miles. Are the oil filters able to be changed in between oil changes without draining the oil? Any opinions on a good quality compatible oil filter for synthetic oils?

Also I see this model calls for 4.2qts of oil. Anyone have much experience doing oil changes on these models that call for 4.2qts? I know typically there is *some* oil left behind when you drain it. Should I be able to get away with only buying 4qts of oil?
Sorry....failed to address the quantity question.

Myself, I just put in 4 quarts and the dipstick on my Cruze (and now, both my Trax(s), also 1.4's, reads full. It appears that .2 of a quart really doesn't show on the stick.
Knowing that all engines are designed to operate with oil level anywhere between 'Add' and 'Full', the .2 really doesn't matter.

Rob
 

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One thing I have never completely figure out on this car is the maximum line. Is the maximum line the top line below the cross hatch, or is it the top of the cross hatch area?
I'm not familiar with the LUV and LUJ dipsticks, but generally speaking, the crosshatched area is the good zone. Below the crosshatched area would be the 'possible oil starvation at redline' area.
 

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I'm not familiar with the LUV and LUJ dipsticks, but generally speaking, the crosshatched area is the good zone. Below the crosshatched area would be the 'possible oil starvation at redline' area.
The dipstick has a crosshatch area at the bottom. The user manual says that if it goes into that area that you should add a quart. Above that area, there are two blank spaces with a line in between. Above that, there is another cross hatch area. The user manual does not clearly state where the maximum line is.
 

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Also a 24 mm 1/2" socket with a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter, with a 3/8 U-joint, a 3/8" extension or two depending on lenth, followed by a 3/8" ratchet works.

The 24 mm sockets are all standard found as 1/2". The lisle one is probably really nice, but it's total landed cost including shipping may be more than what you can pick up a 24 mm standard socket for locally.

I listed my entire setup from ratchet to socket. It's probably not all needed, but I don't like bending over, and I like the flexibility that the U-joint and long extension provides.

I'm a huge fan of the cartridge style filters. I was kind of sad to see the GEN 2 1.4L goes back to a standard filter. It seems the European designed engines like the cartridge filter paper elements, and the E-Torx sockets.

Based on pictures of the GEN 2 1.4L engine in the 2017's it appears that they have done away with E-Torx and are back to bolts. Guessing E-Torx might be less of a fight to loosen as engines rust and age. However, finding the E-Torx sockets can be a little bit of an online search.
 
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