Chevrolet Cruze Forums banner

1 - 20 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have had an oil leak for a few months now, on my '12 Cruze LT. It leaks about a qt between oil changes, which I've gotten done at the dealer every 7-8K in the 2 years' Ive had the car. I thought I had solved the problem when I replaced the valve cover gasket about a month ago. But it seems I wasn't so lucky. I had noticed a spot where it looked like oil was coming from under the front left side of the cover, which is why I was hopeful that I had fixed the problem with replacing the gasket.

When the dealer changed the oil today, they told me that the leak was still there and coating the alternator, and other pulleys and such on the left side of the engine. Now that my car is out of warranty, 111,000 miles, they want to charge me to diagnose where its coming from, so I thought I would ask here first before deciding what to do next. Since I'm not mechanically inclined.

About a year ago, to fix other issues, the turbocharger, water pump, cam cover, and cam actuator solenoid seals were all replaced by the dealer under warranty. A mechanic friend helped me replace my throttle body to fix issues related to it, a month ago, which is when he also replaced the valve cover gasket. That first leak point I noticed stopped, but apparently it wasn't the only one.

Any thoughts anyone can offer are much appreciated.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,692 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Before I saw the reply, I took the car to a mechanic who put dye in the oil and had me drive it for a week then come back to determine the source of the leak. He said there was too much oil to determine the cause but it was covering the belts and such. He recommended just starting to replace solenoids and O rings and work up from there. Is there any merit to what he is saying or should I try the suggestions you made first?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,633 Posts
Before I saw the reply, I took the car to a mechanic who put dye in the oil and had me drive it for a week then come back to determine the source of the leak. He said there was too much oil to determine the cause but it was covering the belts and such. He recommended just starting to replace solenoids and O rings and work up from there. Is there any merit to what he is saying or should I try the suggestions you made first?
There are years and 100’s of real-life experiences behind the two links posted by @XtremeRevolution above. Many 1.4L owners here would highly recommend doing those repairs first and foremost. There’s a very good chance this will solve your issue.

If you’re not mechanically inclined or uncomfortable with the fixes, share the links with a competent mechanic and have them done before trying to replace solenoids and O rings (unnecessarily).

Good luck and keep us posted!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I meant no disrespect toward the suggestions just trying to figure out which way to start, or if those areas (O rings) were problem areas too. Will do and will keep you posted.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Update: It took me about a month to get the money together for the repair, then the Serpentine belt slipped off a pully and got shredded as I was driving,(thankfully in town). This of course, caused the car to overheat (with a lot of smoke) but luckily after 2 blocks I was able to park the car and shut it off, before having it towed to my mechanic (the night before it was supposed to go in and have the CPASV seals replaced) Luckily, it appears I didn't blow my head gasket or have any warp. In fact the car seems to run a little cooler with the new belt per the dash gauge.

I opted to try the CPASV seals first given the leak looked like it was originating from there and since I had just replaced the valve cover not long ago. And per videos I've seen from other forums, my car does drop in RPMs soon after starting, so I don't think its the valve cover PCV, so I thought the CPAS seals would be the likely culprit of my leak.

Turns out it was not. I still have the same leak, a decent amount of oil is coating everything on the side of the engine, in fact two other people have seen my car (shade tree mechanics) jumped to the front seal being the source. After looking at some other forums on here, I think the problem might be the "check valve"on the intake manifold. Since I discovered that if there's a problem with my PCV system it could cause my front crankcase seal to leak since the seal requires proper vacuum to work. And given the car has 119,000 miles on it and the valves on the manifolds are prone to failure, it seems to be a likely cause given everything, including location of oil and the amount. All things considered, I don't think its the oil feed line either, since mine has the heat shield on it.

So I'm going to keep an eye on my oil and keep the effected parts wiped clean as best as I can until I get enough money together to get this replaced, as I don't want to attempt it myself. l will update if this fixes it or not.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
So do you have the orange nipple visible on your intake manifold when you remove the corrugated hose?

I also had oil leaks at every seem, and I also have no CEL whatsoever. Does anyone know if it’s possible for this check valve to fail causing too much crankcase pressure, but without a CEL, organge nipple visible and no driviablty issues?

It was also coating the alternator, pulleys and frame/shield area was covered. I finally broke down and replaced the front main seal today as it’s a cheap and easy job. It seems to have stopped but there is just so much oil caked in everywhere it will be a while before I can tell.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I pulled the corrugated hose and using a small flashlight I didn't see the nipple but there was some gunk inside the hose. Which leads me to believe this is the problem. However, I got the oil changed as part of the serpentine belt/ CPASV Seal replacement and after 3 days of driving ( I put 120 highway miles on my car each day)

I had to add a quart of oil this morning to get back to the middle of the full range. I don't know if a bad Manifold check valve would cause this much of a leak, as I think my oil leak may be worse than before I had the serpentine belt replaced.

Vitracker's post makes me think its my front crankshaft seal, and the serpentine replacement made the leak worse when they were working around/tugging on the belt and pulley? I'm open to suggestions. Do I replace the front crank seal or the manifold, since that's what I have to do to replace the check valve.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
You really need to confirm or not if your check valve nipple is there, it will only take a second. Also are you getting any CEL?

While it hasn’t been confirmed by anyone on here, I think what killed all my seals was when my turbo oil feed line became blocked. The oil was being pumped into it and had nowhere to go squeezing it out wherever possible. First I replaced the turbo and lines, but I still had to do the seals. Every oil seal besides the pan gasket has been replaced since the oil feed like blockage killed my turbo.

Anyway 2 days later mine is no longer leaking onto the pavement after the front main seal replacement. It still looks wet there but not dripping.

Car will be sold or traded in very shortly now that’s it’s stopped for now, I just can’t do this anymore.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Excuse my ignorance but what else do i so to check for the nipple to clean the gunk out, which I would assume may be covering it?

Can this problem really cause me to lose that much oil that fast?? Also I don't know what CEL is either, again I'm sorry.
The turbo was replaced last year along with the water pump and most if not all of my coolant hoses. All was done just before my warranty expired in October. When they replaced the turbo they said the check valve was fine but at this point that was 14,000 miles ago.

I also had to replace my throttle body when it crapped out earlier this year.

I have a limited amount of funds, so Im just trying to figure out what to fix to stop the leak -- the Manifold (check valve) or the front seal. I just think my leak got worse when they played with pulleys which leads me toward the seal, I dont know though im not much on mechanics or logic. And I am just praying its not both. cruze leak (675x900).jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
CEL is check engine light. If you have check valve or PVC issues you should have it on the dash. If there are issues with those you can have high crankcase pressure and the oil will find its way outside.

Things that can increase your crankcase pressure too much leaking to oil leaks:

-valve cover burst disk or gasket
-failed check valve in manifold (nipple)
-failed check valve in corrugated hose. can you suck air when you remove the hose @ orange nipple side? Don’t swallow any oil ?

So it looks like your nipple is there, which is good.

Putting on a new bolt will NOT make a front main seal leak. That pulley is on there very tight and it’s impossible a human could do anything to unseat it without taking the bolt out.

I ruled out all of these things before I replaced my front mail seal, still no leaks yet but I don’t drive much and the engine is caked from tons of oil and coolant leaks over the last few months.

Front main seal replacement is cheap and easy:

-Buy new seal for about $10
-Remove inner fender
-remove belt (just loosen tensioner and take it off alternator so it goes loose)
-remove crank pulley bolt (NEED e18 socket and good AIR impact gun)
-remove seal with seal puller or flat screwdriver
-leave new seal in deep freeze for a few hours, take out, put oil on sides and drive in gently with a large socket or wooden dowel.
- reinstall pulley and torque to 111ftlbs (very hard to do on automatic as it wants to turn. I impacted mine back in to 120 to be safe)

It took me about 2 hours
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
So the mechanic has determined after a day of trying to find the source of my leak that my car doesn’t leak when sitting idle. Only when it’s being driven. And they don’t think it’s the front crankshaft seal. They are going to clean it off and drive shorter trips to see if that helps them determine the source. Does anyone here have any ideas?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
This has got check valve written all over it. Your crankcase pressure is too high when under boost.

Are the check valves in your corrugated hose working properly? To check blow into it once you remove it from intake manifold, it should blow freely. Then try to suck, you shouldn’t be able to suck anything. And no check engine light on the speedometer cluster?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
I have to check that one. But I have a hard time believing that a check valve could cause that much oil loss (a qt after 200 miles of highway driving in 2 days ). Especially since I’ve checked forcthe check valve in the manifold (see photo above) and the valve cover PCV. And the leak got much worse after my serpentine broke and was replaced. Could the belt break have damaged the front crank? It just that the leak got worse after that incident that has me confounded. And no I don’t have any check engine light on at all.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,692 Posts
Three months ago, I posted two links for you to review. They included instructions for checking all of the PCV related issues. In order to resolve your problem, proper diagnostics need to be followed, starting with the root cause. I stated, in my post, that if everything looks good, only then do you replace the seals.

Now, from your picture, it looks like you might already have my PCV fix kit installed. Did you do this, or did you buy the car used? I don't see an orange nipple in there, but do see what looks like a screw head. Grab some rubbing alcohol and q-tips and clean that area out nicely so you can actually see what's going on in there.

If your PCV system checks out fine across the board, you are left with two possible options for crankcase pressure: failing turbo or cracked pistons. The latter can be diagnosed with a compression test, checking for consistency. You need to perform all of these checks before you go replacing any more parts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
After a day and a half of tracking it down, the mechanic finally found the problem. They said there was no leak when the car was at idle, but when it was driven oil was going everywhere. They only found the leak when they drove the car slow for a very short distance, and found that oil was coming out from one of the valve cover bolts. It seems the sealant that I used for the touch points on the valve cover gasket was the culprit.

I had bought hi temp silicon sealant which I thought it was ok, but I was wrong, and apparently my own worst enemy. But they said it expanded had hardened, that the gasket was all stretched out, and there was what looked to be glue in the channel. It was so bad they couldn't get the valve cover back on. So they replaced the valve cover, gasket, and bolts.

I got the car back this morning and drove it 50 miles to work, opened the hood and no oil anywhere. I do get a slight whiff of oil coming through the air vents which I am sure will go away when I change the air filters. I figure after all the oil, burnt rubber and smoke the engine has seen in the last month, the filters, which need changed anyway are covered with oil and the stale oil air is what I smell since I only get faint whiff at a stop, but at speed there's no odor. Thank everyone for there advice, and when you change your valve cover gasket take it from me, the sealant matters.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
I have the same issue but the valve cover gasket has just been replaced by the dealer a week or so ago. Still oil leaking from the left side near the pulleys. I check all three of the PCV valve touch points. All are good hose, nipped present and the first step I covered the hole and there’s no noise present. It seems I leak oil after driving as well. Any ideas?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
243 Posts
Change the PCV on my '14 ECO, still got a little bit of a leak some lower on the engine, center to passenger side, nursing it along until we can get a better look at it and change the oil in it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Mine is the front cover gasket PVC valve was replaced less than a week ago the leak got worse and they said the gasket passenger front engine.
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
Top