Chevrolet Cruze Forums banner
1 - 3 of 3 Posts

· Banned
Joined
·
9,198 Posts
Here's another photo showing what they are, bit more clearer.



Tell the ECU the angular positions of both camshafts for both ignition, injector, and valve timing. My guess is that the screws are loose.

Not seeing gaskets listed for these things, but on a lot of this new stuff, ain't using gaskets anymore, RTV, and maybe they missed a spot. Only correct way to do it right is to remove the part, clean it up, both surfaces and apply new RTV, gas and oil resistant. Seen some dealers just slap on RTV externally, good for about a week, not the right way. So prefer to do it myself and do it right. Plus don't have to sit in the waiting room twitting my fingers.
 

· Banned
Joined
·
9,198 Posts
As you can tell, had no reason to play with mine, but more O'rings? If so, either the plate or the timing chain cover has grooves in it, and helps to use RTV or non-hardening Permatex to help them strict in.

My Volvo boat outdrive used O'rings between all those assemblies, had water leaking into the gear water. Used a marine grade RTV on both sides of those rings, haven't had a leak since. Maybe if that space shuttle, the Challenger used a high grade of military RTV, it will still be around.



Part #31 is the actuator, GM part #55562223. Can't seem to find the O'ring, but as typical to you have to buy a new actuator to get one?

On other such actuators, the O'ring is on a collar that fits into the timing chain cover, if you don't at least use silicone grease, that O'ring will twist and turn and never seal properly.

I never know what I am going to do until I study the part, but tell myself constantly, if they did it right in the first place, wouldn't even have this problem.
[h=1][/h]
 

· Banned
Joined
·
9,198 Posts
Dry fitted O'rings were used between the valve stems and spring retainer on our old GM S-10 4.3L V-6 engine, thing was burning a quart of oil every 500 miles, and smoked like crazy when first started up.

This was an early to midnight job on this thing, took a half a day to get at the valve covers with all the crap on top. One cylinder at a time, used compressed air to keep the valves closed, each at TDC on the firing stroke. This time, filled that O'ring with high temperature RTV and let it dry before starting, never leaked again, this was at 60K dumped this thing at 220K miles. Oil consumption dropped to a quart every 5,000 miles.

Also had to use three cans of Seafoam to clean out all the carbon, did this at 3:00 AM in the morning on a dead road because we left a smoke trail about 20 miles long.

Just because of stupid dry O'-rings.
 
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top