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My 2012 Cruze's oil pan bolt was so soft that it rounded easily. Mr. Lube screwed it up and did not bother to tell me. Took it to Jiffy Lube and I was then informed as to the state of the bolt head. They had to use a vice-grip to remove it. They replaced it with a 1992 Honda Civic plug and washer and it is of a superior quality steel - at no charge, since I said screw Mr. Lube and GM. It fits perfectly. Extremely poor quality by General Motors. What a shame that North American car companies just continue to not meet high quality standards of foreign manufacturers - who by the way, are now outselling local cars.

This is the second issue I have with this car, bought used @ 59,000Km. The first issue was that the car DIED and they had to replace the entire Fuse Box - second time, as this was replaced while with the first owner. GM's solution to the Dealer was to pack the contacts underneath with Dielectric grease - idiots!! They know of the problem with Relays overheating within the NON-VENTED Fuse Box and have not sought to fix the design flaw. Not until someone dies on the highway and they face a massive lawsuit. So that this does not happen again, I plan to vent the Fuse Box with cut slits or to install a 12-volt fan on top.

Why are manufacturers so stupid?? The thing is that I love this car; the handling, the response, the smooth driving. The seats could be a wee-bit softer but hold well; the suspension is stiff and you can feel a bumpy roadway, but it's a compact so . . . anyway, on good road it's a blast to drive, and pretty good on gas.
 

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My 2012 Cruze's oil pan bolt was so soft that it rounded easily. Mr. Lube screwed it up and did not bother to tell me. Took it to Jiffy Lube and I was then informed as to the state of the bolt head. They had to use a vice-grip to remove it. They replaced it with a 1992 Honda Civic plug and washer and it is of a superior quality steel - at no charge, since I said screw Mr. Lube and GM. It fits perfectly. Extremely poor quality by General Motors. What a shame that North American car companies just continue to not meet high quality standards of foreign manufacturers - who by the way, are now outselling local cars.

This is the second issue I have with this car, bought used @ 59,000Km. The first issue was that the car DIED and they had to replace the entire Fuse Box - second time, as this was replaced while with the first owner. GM's solution to the Dealer was to pack the contacts underneath with Dielectric grease - idiots!! They know of the problem with Relays overheating within the NON-VENTED Fuse Box and have not sought to fix the design flaw. Not until someone dies on the highway and they face a massive lawsuit. So that this does not happen again, I plan to vent the Fuse Box with cut slits or to install a 12-volt fan on top.

Why are manufacturers so stupid?? The thing is that I love this car; the handling, the response, the smooth driving. The seats could be a wee-bit softer but hold well; the suspension is stiff and you can feel a bumpy roadway, but it's a compact so . . . anyway, on good road it's a blast to drive, and pretty good on gas.
Welcome to the forum, sorry to hear of your frustration. I agree the the bolt they used for the oil drain is a bit too small and soft so it does tend to round if you do not use the exact size socket. My brother rounded his trying to get it back on and we had to replace it as well. It's what happens when companies buy bolts in bulk from the lowest bidder in an attempt to save money.

Not sure what you mean about replacing the entire fuse box or venting it. That shouldn't be necessary. The fuse in this car is one solid piece with multiple fuses built in. So if one fuse blows they have to replace the entire fuse assembly which contains 5 or 6 main fuses in it. Another company money saving measure which ends up costing the customer. But that's sort of what I would expect from an economy car under 17K starting price which looks so nice and comes with so many features.

The seats and the suspension are kind of subjective. Though the Z-link suspension package that comes with the RS probably does make a difference in how the car behaves. But it sounds like these are relatively minor issues that can be addressed. Hope you're able to get these things resolved because it really is a good car for what it is. This forum is full of people willing to help too if you need it. Have a great day!
 

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10 mm bolt has no problems whatsoever if hand screwed in and tightened to 10 ft-lbs of torque, says so right on the pan next to that drain plug.

A$$holes are the problem.
 

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I've personally had no problems using a bit of care when doing it myself. But they're not super robust either. I prefer to do the work myself because no one is going to care as much about my car as I do. But I still think the bolts are a bit weak and could be a bit beefier.
 

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You will be really happy that the bolt head was designed to strip out, before the threads in the pan! As discussed in previous threads I think this was an engineering design intent.

I have had oil pans stripped at dealerships due to poor practices to the point where the larger drain plug doesn't work. It was over $600 10 years ago to support and lift the engine to replace the pan.

For $15 for the GM one, I would be reinstalling a factory plug, or at least the correct equivalent. Dorman makes one for the Cruze. I believe BlueTopaz (The member with over 300,000 miles.) had problems with aftermarket plugs, and after a pan replacement went back to the factory plug.

If your not interested in doing the work yourself make them pay you for the plug, so that you can go get them the correct parts.
 

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I've personally had no problems using a bit of care when doing it myself. But they're not super robust either. I prefer to do the work myself because no one is going to care as much about my car as I do. But I still think the bolts are a bit weak and could be a bit beefier.
Ha, you can say that for just about everything the way they are making vehicles today, with all that aluminum and plastic. Very easy with one slip of the wrench to break off a plastic nipple from a 60 buck map sensor or what ever. And don't even sneeze on that 70 buck PCV hose.

How about unplated rolled CRS screws in aluminum?
 

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Ha, you can say that for just about everything the way they are making vehicles today, with all that aluminum and plastic. Very easy with one slip of the wrench to break off a plastic nipple from a 60 buck map sensor or what ever. And don't even sneeze on that 70 buck PCV hose.

How about unplated rolled CRS screws in aluminum?
Can't we go back to making things with cast iron, steel, and V8s?
 

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People get out of the past you don't need to tighten things down to the point it breaks. Snugged is fine. Plastic is fine. Yes it breaks over time put cheaper to replace if/when it breaks.
Regarding the fuse box this is the first I've heard it. I have 110k on my cruze no fuse box problems. Are you talking about the one in the engine bay or under the dash? If its the one in the engine I say have a water leak from a bad seal or cover was not installed correctly.
 

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People get out of the past you don't need to tighten things down to the point it breaks. Snugged is fine. Plastic is fine. Yes it breaks over time put cheaper to replace if/when it breaks.
Regarding the fuse box this is the first I've heard it. I have 110k on my cruze no fuse box problems. Are you talking about the one in the engine bay or under the dash? If its the one in the engine I say have a water leak from a bad seal or cover was not installed correctly.
there are things that because they work with plastic doesn't mean they should. you can still use metal, real metal not pot metal and torque it to proper specs and be just fine. plastic weakens with heat and cold cycles just ask VW. perfect example look at pistols. at most they are polymer frames reinforced with metal and the slides are still only metal. plastic has its place so does metal.
 

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The problem with rounding or stripping oil plugs is almost always do to over tightening. Really, all you have to do is snug the plug to the pan and your fine. Oil change places love to get you out of there, and rounding oil pan plugs just go hand in hand with leaving plenty of dirty oil in your engine.
 

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10 mm bolt has no problems whatsoever if hand screwed in and tightened to 10 ft-lbs of torque, says so right on the pan next to that drain plug.

A$$holes are the problem.
What is the best point socket to use on oil filter and drain plug. I want to do my oil changes since it looks fairly easy but I need to buy a torque ratchet and 24 mm socket since I don't have anything that big.
I was just wondering what is the best number of points for the sockets. I am going to get a new 10mm for the drain plug too while I am at it so just wondering if more points are better or less points for these cars.

Sorry if it seems like a dumb question.
 

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6 point is better than 12 point for not rounding the head off. 12 points are more convenient when space is an issue as there are more angles you can use to get the socket onto the nut/bolt head, but with a 12 point, each side is shorter, therefore less contact to the sides of the nut and more play, which can lead to rounding off the sides. I use 12 point sockets for most things, but I have a set of 6 point impact sockets when that sort of thing is an issue. I've never had to use the 6 pointers on an oil drain plug until the Cruze.
 

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12 point sockets are in a bag someplace, all I use is six point sockets, never was a problem years ago, sure is now.

Hate Torx on automotive, did at first and still do, nice for a brand new bolt, sticks on the bit, but not enough bite in these things to keep from stripping this off.

Smallest torx bit I have is a number one, that is okay for changing a watch battery, nice to have that tiny screw stick on the end, can barely hold these with my fingers to try to start them.

Best way to deal with a torx bolt is to have a Made in the USA inline impact wrench with variable torque so you can put a ton of axially force on it. Real easy if your engine is sitting on your kitchen table, next to impossible when its in the vehicle. Can barely reach it with a ratchet, this is when you have major problems, can't even put any axially force on it or even hold it straight. They don't give a dam about this, your problem, not theirs.

Have to have the right tools to work on these vehicles, a pair of pliers is out of the question, need a 24 mm six point socket for that oil filter cap and about a nine inch extension. For that drain plug, use a 1/4 inch drive ratcheting torque wrench. Has to be some good news, least not using a torx.

Most common comment I make to myself, just want to remove it, don't want to break it. Yeah, this new crap has me talking to myself.
 

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Most common comment I make to myself, just want to remove it, don't want to break it. Yeah, this new crap has me talking to myself.
I certainly can relate to this one. It feels like I have to reason with those fragile plastic harnesses, trim pieces, and tiny bolts in order for them to co-operate.
 

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What is the best point socket to use on oil filter and drain plug. I want to do my oil changes since it looks fairly easy but I need to buy a torque ratchet and 24 mm socket since I don't have anything that big.
I was just wondering what is the best number of points for the sockets. I am going to get a new 10mm for the drain plug too while I am at it so just wondering if more points are better or less points for these cars.

Sorry if it seems like a dumb question.
For what it is worth my oil drain plug is 14Nm and my oil filter is 25Nm 6 pt each.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B23oAlGwuGykeU4zVVpXMUt6R3c/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B23oAlGwuGykTWhkeHg0QUdLTEU/view?usp=sharing
 

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What is the best point socket to use on oil filter and drain plug. I want to do my oil changes since it looks fairly easy but I need to buy a torque ratchet and 24 mm socket since I don't have anything that big.
I was just wondering what is the best number of points for the sockets. I am going to get a new 10mm for the drain plug too while I am at it so just wondering if more points are better or less points for these cars.

Sorry if it seems like a dumb question.
Oil changes on this car are super easy. It only takes me about 15 minutes, and I don't even lift the car. I just reach under and remove the drain bolt. I got a drain pan thing from Oreilly that fits perfectly under the car, and they empty it for free. I always use my torque wrench on the drain bolt and filter cover. I use 6 point sockets for both. I also purchased a spare filter cover and drain bolt just in case, but I doubt I will ever need them. If you use enough force to strip the bolt then you are tightening it too much.

I didn't use any of the free oil changes that came with my car because the dealer wanted to keep my car for a day, and it is so easy to just do it myself.
 
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