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This is to create a stickied thread dedicated to the rubber seal that rests between the metal oil pump mounted on the engine block and the plastic pick up tube that descends into the oil pan.

This seal hardens with time and use. Loosing its pliability and causing the oil pump to draw small amounts of air into the oiling system. Thereby aerating the pressurized oil supply and leading to catastrophic failure at the crankshaft bearings and elsewhere.

This oil pump pick up seal is a common failure point on all 2.0 VM Motori diesel engines. Including the RPO LUZ engine in our 2014-15 Cruze CTDs.

The seal is a very inexpensive part. But requires labor time to replace as the oil pan must be dropped.

There is very little to no advanced warning of this seal’s failure. Once it fails it is often too late for the engine. Should you ever receive a low oil pressure warning, immediately stop the engine and have the vehicle towed to service for replacement of this seal.

Given the critical nature of this seal, it is recommended that it be replaced proactively. Certainly if your CTD is no longer covered by warranty - and you plan to keep your CTD running.

Given the rarity of this engine in North America, knowledge of this seal and its weakness is very limited. However, this engine is quite popular throughout Europe, where a broad knowledge base exists in this regard. There it is reported that the failure often occurs on cold start up. Some Europeans consider this seal a wear item and replace it every few years.

Among our cruzetalk community there are two known engine failures blamed on oiling. Initially they were thought to be related to EGR contamination of the oil. But now it would seem likely that this seal was at fault.

It certainly appears to be a time bomb ticking inside our engines. Especially for those with long-term plans. Fortunately, the part is inexpensive and its replacement not overly onerous.
 

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Are we able to pull the oil pan without lifting the engine up off the subframe? Is imminent failure noticeable via any sort of oil leak, or is this park fully encapsulated within the oil pan (I presume not, based on it being between the oil pump and block)? Does the new seal have any sort of improvement that prevents it from happening again (or does use of a different oil potentially help it retain its flexibility?)

This sounds like valve seals, or a SBC rear main seal basically being something that will fail...except those don't generally lead to catastrophic failure, just oil leaks/burning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Are we able to pull the oil pan without lifting the engine up off the subframe? Is imminent failure noticeable via any sort of oil leak, or is this park fully encapsulated within the oil pan (I presume not, based on it being between the oil pump and block)? Does the new seal have any sort of improvement that prevents it from happening again (or does use of a different oil potentially help it retain its flexibility?)

This sounds like valve seals, or a SBC rear main seal basically being something that will fail...except those don't generally lead to catastrophic failure, just oil leaks/burning.
@boraz has found some videos from Europe that demonstrate the seal and its replacement.

I will repost them here:





 

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Are we able to pull the oil pan without lifting the engine up off the subframe? Is imminent failure noticeable via any sort of oil leak, or is this park fully encapsulated within the oil pan (I presume not, based on it being between the oil pump and block)? Does the new seal have any sort of improvement that prevents it from happening again (or does use of a different oil potentially help it retain its flexibility?)

This sounds like valve seals, or a SBC rear main seal basically being something that will fail...except those don't generally lead to catastrophic failure, just oil leaks/burning.
k

@Tomko had the right idea, but wrong execution

your exact questions are answered in the other thread


the replacement of the seal is a 2-8hr job depending on your abilities....totally doable on the side of the road with <$100 of tools (get your tea and sweets together and watch the videos)

if you can do a timing belt, you can do this **** the transmission part looks to be the hardest/cringey part....cuz you gotta drill the side of the trans to get to two bolts

there are also two mechanical connectors available on the aftermarket to address the failings of this seal

lots of them failing in europe 60,000 miles and up (same motor, same part number)

the seal is the same youre replacing, no improvement

why does it wear out? conjecture says fuel contamination...but who knows?? fuel contamination from unfinished regens, too many regens, too much idling, leaky injectors, etc...
 

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@Tomko we'll get this thread straightened out and cleaned up over the next lil bit :h5:

for kicks i googled the 1.6l in the gen2 diesel cruze.....doesnt have this set up, at all....so theyre good

but OMG the timing chain failures theyre having in europe, you dont wanna know how bad a job that is.
 

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does anybody have access to actual fsm for instruct on dropping the pan, specific sealant to use on the seal, oil pan, etcc...tq values etc???

also be curious what actual dealer rate is to re and re the pan....vauxhaul forum said 2.5 hrs

avg home mech on the forums are saying 4hrs to do
 

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I hope the 2.0 is easy as take 10+ pan bolts off, don’t spill oil or better yet do it during oil change and drain, replace seal and done. Why can’t cars be easy again.
 

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from reading the forums, the people that have got the low oil pressure warning at startup, stopped....and replaced the seal, the motors have been fine.

there are a number that got no warning, either cuz of software change to not warn or the oil pressure seemed fine to the sensor even though it was just a mixture of air and oil, not pressurized oil, so it was a slower longer lack of lubrication that wasnt noticeable
 

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Also plastic pick up tube? Are you ducking kidding me.
 

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also need to be rational

we've had two probable failures of this on this board

pretty sure we've had same amount of failures timing belt wise and transmission wise...is your engine gonna pack in tmmw? no

is that seal gonna fail at some point, truly believe so....so lets just be proactive....less than $50 and an afternoon DIY for peace of mind, or $400-$1000 for someone else to do it and keep motoring, still cheap driving....the resale price of these cars isnt great, ill have more money pocket driving it another 5yrs vs unloading it
 

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intake manifold is plastic
Is it? I thought ours was aluminum? That said: most are plastic anymore.

However, I would be slightly leery about the pickup being plastic inside the engine. Gotta pick just the right plastic that won't become brittle over time and break.

Definitely would like to see the FSM procedure, though.
 

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intake manifold is plastic
I’m not happy about that at all either. Plastic cracks as it ages. For those of us who keep our cars 20+ years it rears it’s ugly head.
 

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Is it? I thought ours was aluminum? That said: most are plastic anymore.

However, I would be slightly leery about the pickup being plastic inside the engine. Gotta pick just the right plastic that won't become brittle over time and break.

Definitely would like to see the FSM procedure, though.
ive seen no failures of the pick up tube in the oil pan from the reading ive done (so far)...im a little concerned aboot the solid aluminum aftermarket piece that bridges the oil pump and pickup tube, as far as transferring vibrations and cracking, but no failures of that yet either
 

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I’m not happy about that at all either. Plastic cracks as it ages. For those of us who keep our cars 20+ years it rears it’s ugly head.
especially with egr

yep, i got experience with early miatas and plastic radiators, lol....
 

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ive seen no failures of the pick up tube in the oil pan from the reading ive done (so far)...im a little concerned aboot the solid aluminum aftermarket piece that bridges the oil pump and pickup tube, as far as transferring vibrations and cracking, but no failures of that yet either
None yet but even the oldest USA diesel isn’t all that old relatively speaking. 20yr mark just you wait I bet plastic crap will start to fail under the heat. I’d love to hear the gm engineer that made this call for plastic inside the engine.
With modern diesel tech the internal vibration shouldn’t be as bad.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
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Funny how the smallest of parts can be the biggest assholes in the severity of problems they cause.
 

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