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14 Diesel Cruze, ‘14 volt, ‘72 442
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Yea, or at least make it bolted from the bottom up instead. I’ll have to get under there. (Had surgery last week, nothing big) and see why we can’t get access. I mean, the bolts don’t have to come all the way out. Remove the rest and slide the pan down them 🤷‍♂️ Sure as **** not gonna start drilling hole in my tranny. That sounds insane
 

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2014 Cruze Diesel, 2007 Cobalt, 1981 Camaro Z28, 2017 Volt
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I think the two "hidden" bolts are for the oil pan itself, no? I believe we have access holes for those.

That's promising though, because I was really wondering in my mind why we couldn't just unbolt the axle and sort of pull it out of the way to drop the sump.
 

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14 Diesel Cruze, ‘14 volt, ‘72 442
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That’s what it looks like? I’ll be under there this weekend and see. Somewhere along the line someone was talking about not having access to a couple bolts and had to drill into the tranny. I’m all confused now lol. I bet it’s no biggie. Happen to have that link man? Thanks
 

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Water Gas Tints and shades Art Darkness


sorry it’s blurry. Phone was basically in my face. These are the two “hidden bolts” on the rear of the pan. Access is through the bell housing. Remove the two black plastic dust plugs (small D shape). They take a T30. If you have a 1/4” T30 and extensions your good. I only had 3/8 which will not fit through the access holes. I used a long Allen type T30. They’re about 4-5 inches up. Enjoy
 

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Oooh yeah that's tight! I'll need to see if I've got a T30 in a 1/4" drive (I have a set of torx sockets, but some are 1/4", some are 3/8") - if not, I now know that it'll be worth buying some. More tools is always good anyway.

How about our thoughts on the axle shaft support - can that simply be unbolted and pulled away, allowing the sump to be dropped without removing the axle?
 

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14 Diesel Cruze, ‘14 volt, ‘72 442
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Oooh yeah that's tight! I'll need to see if I've got a T30 in a 1/4" drive (I have a set of torx sockets, but some are 1/4", some are 3/8") - if not, I now know that it'll be worth buying some. More tools is always good anyway.

How about our thoughts on the axle shaft support - can that simply be unbolted and pulled away, allowing the sump to be dropped without removing the axle?
That’s how I did mine, I did not remove the driveshaft. Probably took me twice as long though. One bracket bolt will not come out as the way, but just enough to get a T40 through (not a ratchet, a torx long handle tool. 10 bolts are T40. The front and rear 4 (2each side) are T30. A lot of prying and cussing but doable. Main problems with that approach are: time, getting the sump in and out once unbolted is a royal pain and acquiring verified torque
 

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Hmm, so you spend probably 2-3 hours to save 1 hour? But in doing so you do avoid any potential issues by having to remove the axle and what not. That also means I can do this on ramps instead of jack stands, which is always a plus.

Of course they make it so a ******* bolt can't be removed because why not. I assume the axle itself is in the way of the bolt coming out?

Do you think a very long torx bit (socket) would also work as well as what you used? Do you recall what the torque value is on the sump bolts?
 

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14 Diesel Cruze, ‘14 volt, ‘72 442
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Yea, something like that. I didn’t use my ramps. With that said I needed it off to do a couple other things. Putting it on jackstands helped me because I found it nice to have the tire off and could easily pull the harmonic balancer off (just helped to have it off).

if I had to do it again, I would pull the driveshaft. I also pulled the DPF out, but that is finding a new home anyway. The only T30 I had was 3/8. That will not fit through the access hole, not sure if they make a 1/4” T30. Not sure if that answered your question or not. I’m still on my first cup of coffee 🥱

The 10 T40 bolts are 18 ft lb
The 4 T30 bolts are 80 INCH lb
 

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@Bvogt - Do you think pulling the driveshaft while doing the pan would also make changing the oil cooler easier, or can that all be done top side?
If you just want to do the oil cooler, pull the alternator and it will make your life much easier. No matter what, you have to get under it to torque them and line the thing up. Only 3 bolts, a sensor and those ** coolant lines

no need to pull the driveshaft for the oil cooler, but if your dropping the pan anyway, oh yea it will be a lot easier
 

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2014 Cruze Diesel, 200k miles, PPEI Tuned
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So after reading thru a few threads regarding the pick up seal. What was the best route to take? Having my timing belt done soon thinking of just having the seal changed out aswell Since I’m at 210k miles. Or should I go with that fitting with the 2 orings?
 

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So after reading thru a few threads regarding the pick up seal. What was the best route to take? Having my timing belt done soon thinking of just having the seal changed out aswell Since I’m at 210k miles. Or should I go with that fitting with the 2 orings?
In the end, the original design is still a problem, so eventually you risk it failing again. The aluminum one with the two Viton O-Rings should never fail, so you're only replacing it once.
 
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