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That’s actually not true. If you watch the Russian YT video where they do the tear-down of the 2.0 CDTI engine he says the oil pump can fail to increase oil pressure when required to causing engine failure. If you haven’t watched the video it’s worth it.

My car is at the shop now getting some work done, including dropping the oil pan to install the aftermarket oil pickup o-ring sleeve from Poland and a transmission flush among other things.
let us know how much they charge you for this work. where did you get the oil pickup o-ring sleeve from? :)
 
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That’s actually not true. If you watch the Russian YT video where they do the tear-down of the 2.0 CDTI engine he says the oil pump can fail to increase oil pressure when required to causing engine failure. If you haven’t watched the video it’s worth it.

My car is at the shop now getting some work done, including dropping the oil pan to install the aftermarket oil pickup o-ring sleeve from Poland and a transmission flush among other things.
In my quote I even said “it’s perfectly fine if set up properly” swing as a majority of diesels are doing well I’d say they got it right. Yah a few have had problems but it hasn’t been a huge issue over the many engines made.
 

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let us know how much they charge you for this work. where did you get the oil pickup o-ring sleeve from? :)
It came from Poland. The eBay link is here in this thread. He has a YouTube video about it here too. It was like $30 USD with shipping which took a few weeks.

It looks like a nice piece. The machining looked good and it had 2 Viton o-rings.
 

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It came from Poland. The eBay link is here in this thread. He has a YouTube video about it here too. It was like $30 USD with shipping which took a few weeks.

It looks like a nice piece. The machining looked good and it had 2 Viton o-rings.
i bought the same one, waiting for spring to install
 

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Would like to see a write-up (with pictures) if possible, for the install. Seems pretty straightforward - drain oil, drop tank, remove oil pickup, swap seal, reverse, no?
 

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Would like to see a write-up (with pictures) if possible, for the install. Seems pretty straightforward - drain oil, drop tank, remove oil pickup, swap seal, reverse, no?
theres literally videos in this thread of it being done

you forgot pulling the driveshaft and the tea and sweets
 

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theres literally videos in this thread of it being done

you forgot pulling the driveshaft and the tea and sweets
That's fine. I like threads with pictures. Just like on blogs these days: I like an actual article instead of "here's a video". Videos are handy - so are step by step instructions.

Oh ****, I forgot about all that **** too.
 

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Back in October 2017 I had my oil pan gasket resealed due to leaking oil. Just checked my workorder and it shows they replaced gasket 55589549 which is the pickup seal. Also shows they replaced 55588013 and 55575125. Gives me a bit of relief.
 

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Back in October 2017 I had my oil pan gasket resealed due to leaking oil. Just checked my workorder and it shows they replaced gasket 55589549 which is the pickup seal. Also shows they replaced 55588013 and 55575125. Gives me a bit of relief.
So GM knew about this issue since 2017 and no recall information has been released since?! ... wow wtf...
Did the stealership provide you with a reason as to why they replaced that specific pickup seal at that time assuming your car was not even 3 years old?
 

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So GM knew about this issue since 2017 and no recall information has been released since?! ... wow wtf...
Did the stealership provide you with a reason as to why they replaced that specific pickup seal at that time assuming your car was not even 3 years old?
The oil pan gasket was leaking. I'm assuming the pickup gasket (along with the other 2) are listed as 'renew' when following the book for pan installation. Nothing controversial at all.
 

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So GM knew about this issue since 2017 and no recall information has been released since?! ... wow wtf...
Did the stealership provide you with a reason as to why they replaced that specific pickup seal at that time assuming your car was not even 3 years old?
The seal is the connection between the baffled oil pan and the pump pickup. If you pull the oil pan, you must replace the seal. That's why they did it
 

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I remember before I bought one of these cars trying to do extensive research to make sure it didn't have any known flaws or failure points like the Jetta I came from did. And here we are with a 4 month old post nearly 2 years into my ownership showing this clusterfuck. All because GM cheaped out on a ******* O-ring. Ohhhhhh but it doesnt stop there. Lets design an oil pan where half the &^$&(^%$*&^% car has to come apart to replace a rubber seal. And what happens if the seal fails? Burning oil? Bad emissions or mileage? Na bruh thats rookie **** the ENTIRE ENGINE GRENADES.

Ive read the first thread once and this one twice including watching the tea and sweets guy teardown and I'm wondering if anyone has been able to find out if we have the transmissions where you may have to drill to get access to 2 additional bolts? Knowing GM I imagine we do and are expected to drill and they quickly dispense someone from the nearest GM service center to kick you square in the nuts while you're under the car trying to fix their big brain decision.
 

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I mean...keep in mind, we don't have any confirmed reports of this failing - at least from our members on the forum - in North America yet. The engine is the same as in Europe, but it's possible something is different enough that it may not happen.
 
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I remember before I bought one of these cars trying to do extensive research to make sure it didn't have any known flaws or failure points like the Jetta I came from did. And here we are with a 4 month old post nearly 2 years into my ownership showing this clusterfuck. All because GM cheaped out on a *** O-ring. Ohhhhhh but it doesnt stop there. Lets design an oil pan where half the &^$&(^%$&^% car has to come apart to replace a rubber seal. And what happens if the seal fails? Burning oil? Bad emissions or mileage? Na bruh thats rookie *** the ENTIRE ENGINE GRENADES.

Ive read the first thread once and this one twice including watching the tea and sweets guy teardown and I'm wondering if anyone has been able to find out if we have the transmissions where you may have to drill to get access to 2 additional bolts? Knowing GM I imagine we do and are expected to drill and they quickly dispense someone from the nearest GM service center to kick you square in the nuts while you're under the car trying to fix their big brain decision.
its the same engine and trans

likely the same procedure, not positive though
 

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After my second turbo failed recently and having to fix my motor I have been trying to eliminate all possible causes(had a couple ideas but no way to no for sure) since it most certainly wasn't a fluke the first failure having happened again, I stumbled across this post doing some research. I plan on doing this along with the other repairs and modifications I made just in case, but realistically if this created my turbo issue(low oil pressure for feed line) I surely had further engine damage done in the process. Debating on doing a full tear down and rebuild at this point but for now it is running again, holds boost, has decent compression and oil burn is minimal so maybe I got lucky.

Saw a couple mentions of wanting non video and having access to service manuals I made a pdf(13 pages, seemed too big to paste in here haha) that has the procedures and pictures, the oil pan replacement book time is listed @ 7hrs for warranty repair and 9.8hrs standard repair. Once I get the time to perform this I'll know for sure, but after skimming through the manual I don't foresee all of the steps listed being required nor this taking anywhere near this amount of time(mileage may vary due to skill level and also a lot of my components have "fallen off"), use common sense and disassemble only as far as needed would be my advice.

Can confirm drilling the transmission is not necessary, there are removable plugs at the bell housing to access the bolts and as previously mentioned just require a long enough M6 to remove.

Hopefully this is helpful to someone and if you need anything else out of the manual just let me know through pm.
 

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After my second turbo failed recently and having to fix my motor I have been trying to eliminate all possible causes(had a couple ideas but no way to no for sure) since it most certainly wasn't a fluke the first failure having happened again, I stumbled across this post doing some research. I plan on doing this along with the other repairs and modifications I made just in case, but realistically if this created my turbo issue(low oil pressure for feed line) I surely had further engine damage done in the process. Debating on doing a full tear down and rebuild at this point but for now it is running again, holds boost, has decent compression and oil burn is minimal so maybe I got lucky.

Saw a couple mentions of wanting non video and having access to service manuals I made a pdf(13 pages, seemed too big to paste in here haha) that has the procedures and pictures, the oil pan replacement book time is listed @ 7hrs for warranty repair and 9.8hrs standard repair. Once I get the time to perform this I'll know for sure, but after skimming through the manual I don't foresee all of the steps listed being required nor this taking anywhere near this amount of time(mileage may vary due to skill level and also a lot of my components have "fallen off"), use common sense and disassemble only as far as needed would be my advice.

Can confirm drilling the transmission is not necessary, there are removable plugs at the bell housing to access the bolts and as previously mentioned just require a long enough M6 to remove.

Hopefully this is helpful to someone and if you need anything else out of the manual just let me know through pm.
nice

sheet has tq values too....

now just to find out what the suitable sealant is?
 

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nice

sheet has tq values too....

now just to find out what the suitable sealant is?
Assuming you mean for the pan, that would just be the gm rtv #12378521, Amazon.com : 12378521

also for reference
291046

291047


For me personally, im a big fan of the 90 minute black rtv made by permatex called The Right Stuff. Have had better luck with this getting hard to seal items like reusued valve covers etc to seal versus the gm product.
 

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Is anybody gonna try actually removing the faulty seal and going with the aftermarket solution? I'm more inclined to remove it and try something else.

I like the Aluminum adapter w/ o-rings but the brass thingy would also be an option.


Can you get this in the US?
 
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