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I can confirm what @Twisted posted about the sealant. I just looked at my workorder from my dealer warranty job where they pulled the pan. They list 12378521 as a part that was used, which is the sealant.
 

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I got the Polish aftermarket sleeve installed from EBay VAUXHALL Insignia 2.0 CDTI Oil Pick up Gasket Rubber Seal 55589549 for sale | eBay. Mechanic said it fit like a glove. He also showed me a video of the idle oil pressure PID after installation and it was healthy.

Just letting everyone know in case there on the fence about going with the aftermarket solution.

Edited to add: I also had him install a neodium magnetic drain plug. These are also great as they will capture any ferrous metal that makes it into the sump.

 

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Okay, people, I found something very very interesting about our unique oil pump design which also answered my question as to why sometimes I read 37 PSI at 80 MPH (and not 63 PSI which I read most of the time at 80 MPH) on my gauge EOP (engine oil pressure), here is an interesting article about low-pressure oil delivery at high speeds to maximize fuel efficiency:
; here is an excerpt:

"Variable-Displacement Oiling System: the variable-flow oiling system helps maximize fuel efficiency with a crankshaft-driven oil pump that matches the oil supply to the engine load. The engine’s variable-flow pump changes its capacity based on demand for oil rather than using energy to pump oil that is not required".

Here is an excerpt from another article but for 1.4L engines:
"Reducing the amount of oil in the engine reduces the amount of torque the engine needs to pump the oil. At the same time, the oil needed for lubrication is not removed from the engine. The assistant chief engineer for the 1.4L engine, Mike Katerberg, also explained that this is a “simple, durable, and maintenance-free design” that GM has been using for years in transmissions. Most recently, this has become popular in hybrid vehicles, making it an interesting example of valuable tech filtering down to non-hybrid vehicles with the purpose of improving efficiency."

So in short it seems that this oil pump delivers oil through the engine at a lower pressure rate while at high speeds to maximize fuel efficiency. Is this okay?!
My question is what if this design is just not right for this application (diesel engine), it may be okay for gassers though but not for diesels, leading the engine to oil starvation?!
So how much oil pressure do you think you need extra in a diesel which you love the fuel economy of?
Answer just enough to float the parts and prevent friction/wear .
If you think you need 60-80 psi go back to the eighties. This is a highly evolved diesel made as efficiently as possible with veryxwell matched components . I suppose you should drop some 15w40 in it as well to put a heavier thicker film on the bearings to protect the journals. In short put an 80's diesel in youre car or appreciate what you got in this near perfect well balanced package with lighter components lower oil pressure higher spec engine oil holding it all together.
So this seal was a flop every car has issues with some things .The part is cheap its handyman doable so get it done and by the sounds of it this engine will be nearly bullet proof
Mine will get the polish updated sealing sleeve so I have some piece of mind and dont have to keep changing the seal
 

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I got the Polish aftermarket sleeve installed from EBay VAUXHALL Insignia 2.0 CDTI Oil Pick up Gasket Rubber Seal 55589549 for sale | eBay. Mechanic said it fit like a glove. He also showed me a video of the idle oil pressure PID after installation and it was healthy.

Just letting everyone know in case there on the fence about going with the aftermarket solution.

Edited to add: I also had him install a neodium magnetic drain plug. These are also great as they will capture any ferrous metal that makes it into the sump.

Do you mind sharing what he charged for it? On my workorder under warranty they have like 8 book hours listed which would mean it's over $1,000 had I paid.
 

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Do you mind sharing what he charged for it? On my workorder under warranty they have like 8 book hours listed which would mean it's over $1,000 had I paid.
I don't go to dealers, multiple negative experiences over the last 20 years is enough to convince me to find alternatives. There is a local independent shop I use and another friend of the family that does side work out of his garage. The friend is slow to complete but generally does good work. I have 3 vehicles, so one can be down for awhile and I can still get around on my own.

There is no bill to pay, it was a barter/trade deal for some items I had that he wanted. He is still working on it, needs a transmission flush and a few other things done. When I get it back I can ask him what it would cost and you can multiply it by 2x to get the dealer cost.
 

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After my second turbo failed recently and having to fix my motor I have been trying to eliminate all possible causes(had a couple ideas but no way to no for sure) since it most certainly wasn't a fluke the first failure having happened again, I stumbled across this post doing some research. I plan on doing this along with the other repairs and modifications I made just in case, but realistically if this created my turbo issue(low oil pressure for feed line) I surely had further engine damage done in the process. Debating on doing a full tear down and rebuild at this point but for now it is running again, holds boost, has decent compression and oil burn is minimal so maybe I got lucky.

Saw a couple mentions of wanting non video and having access to service manuals I made a pdf(13 pages, seemed too big to paste in here haha) that has the procedures and pictures, the oil pan replacement book time is listed @ 7hrs for warranty repair and 9.8hrs standard repair. Once I get the time to perform this I'll know for sure, but after skimming through the manual I don't foresee all of the steps listed being required nor this taking anywhere near this amount of time(mileage may vary due to skill level and also a lot of my components have "fallen off"), use common sense and disassemble only as far as needed would be my advice.

Can confirm drilling the transmission is not necessary, there are removable plugs at the bell housing to access the bolts and as previously mentioned just require a long enough M6 to remove.

Hopefully this is helpful to someone and if you need anything else out of the manual just let me know through pm.
So your dreaded 2 oil pan bolts at the trans were M6 not torx? Were the rest of your oil pan bolts M6? I will be doing timing belt and resealing my oil pan in the next week or so. Getting ready to turn 250k miles on the way home from work today. Any tips or advice? Also any pics or other info anyone would like me to collect?
 

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Also I will post pics of what parts I got to do timing belt and reseal the oil pan all from GM.
 

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I'm taking my sweet time fixing it on top of getting ready for camping trips, cold weather last week and a little laziness lol. I have the oil pan off and all the parts to go back together with it and repair all the oil leaks. I also already have the timing belt done. I'm going to get back on it next week. I will say the most difficult part was actually separating the oil pan from the engine even after everything was out of the way and all oil pan bolts were out!
 

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I'm taking my sweet time fixing it on top of getting ready for camping trips, cold weather last week and a little laziness lol. I have the oil pan off and all the parts to go back together with it and repair all the oil leaks. I also already have the timing belt done. I'm going to get back on it next week. I will say the most difficult part was actually separating the oil pan from the engine even after everything was out of the way and all oil pan bolts were out!
So in the end does the pan just drop out easy when all the pan bolts are out or is it a pain with lots of crap in the way
 

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So in the end does the pan just drop out easy when all the pan bolts are out or is it a pain with lots of crap in the way
I was wondering this. While under the car yesterday replacing the drain plug seal, I took a look at where the hell else it was leaking from and I really can't tell, but I think it's somewhere along the oil pan's seal...and it looks like an absolute pain in the ass to remove.
 

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I was wondering this. While under the car yesterday replacing the drain plug seal, I took a look at where the hell else it was leaking from and I really can't tell, but I think it's somewhere along the oil pan's seal...and it looks like an absolute pain in the ass to remove.
For ***** sake GM why would you make a pan that’s a pain to remove. Is it easy looking if on a lift or is it a remove tons of stuff to get to? When I read remove odd anger half shaft I definitely got a bit ticked at that.
 

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I'm taking my sweet time fixing it on top of getting ready for camping trips, cold weather last week and a little laziness lol. I have the oil pan off and all the parts to go back together with it and repair all the oil leaks. I also already have the timing belt done. I'm going to get back on it next week. I will say the most difficult part was actually separating the oil pan from the engine even after everything was out of the way and all oil pan bolts were out!
Funny because in service data they actually say you need a special tool to separate it. They look like this Pan Seal Cutter | OTC Tools

So @MP81 is also talking about oil leaks. I think mine is leaking from the front of the motor somewhere. @electrozap_29 did you see any leaks coming from around the oil pump?

I think this job is totally doable. My issue is that this car is my one and only vehicle and if something doesn't go right I'm screwed. If I could just leave it in the garage and work on it over a few days it wouldn't be a big deal.
 

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I look to have a small drip on that sensor above the oil pan on the rear of the engine, but it seems very minimal and did not look to attribute to where the larger leak appears to be, which seems to be closer to where the engine and trans mates, but seems like its higher up, near where the oil pan attaches to the engine. But the oil leak from the drain plug also made a bit of a mess with the car being driven, so I need to wait for that to "self-clean" some more to really get a good look at it. It also could be the trans seeping a bit because why not have two separate leaks?

@pandrad61 it seemed like there were a few things attached to it, but also there were about 40,000 bolts pretty far up. On a lift, though, I believe it would be much, much easier. I also was looking at this with the aeroshield in place, which really isn't in the way, but also limits what you can see because you can't stick your head up in front of the engine.
 

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I look to have a small drip on that sensor above the oil pan on the rear of the engine, but it seems very minimal and did not look to attribute to where the larger leak appears to be, which seems to be closer to where the engine and trans mates, but seems like its higher up, near where the oil pan attaches to the engine. But the oil leak from the drain plug also made a bit of a mess with the car being driven, so I need to wait for that to "self-clean" some more to really get a good look at it. It also could be the trans seeping a bit because why not have two separate leaks?

@pandrad61 it seemed like there were a few things attached to it, but also there were about 40,000 bolts pretty far up. On a lift, though, I believe it would be much, much easier. I also was looking at this with the aeroshield in place, which really isn't in the way, but also limits what you can see because you can't stick your head up in front of the engine.
That makes sense. I haven’t seen my Cruze up in a lift without the shield. I sure hope in a lift and shield off it’s like most cars that it’s a many bolts to remove on pan and drop it.
 

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I'm thinking it should be, there's just a few things attached to it. But being under the car on my back I didn't look that hard, since I was moreso looking for where the hell it was leaking from.
 

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I was wondering this. While under the car yesterday replacing the drain plug seal, I took a look at where the hell else it was leaking from and I really can't tell, but I think it's somewhere along the oil pan's seal...and it looks like an absolute pain in the ass to remove.
It's certainly not easy but not terribly difficult either. Yeah it stinks that the cv axle support bracket bolts to it but it's not bad to get the whole cv axle out. The sensor wiring on the rear of the oil pan up from the drain plug is a common leak. It really only seems to leak while the engine is running. Mine was also seeping from the dipstick tube and the turbo oil drain and maybe a little around the oil pan on the front near the trans. My DPF may have "fallen off" making the repairs to oil leaks on the front of the engine MUCH easier. I would recommend taking the DPF off to perform repairs on the front of the engine. More to come this week Lord willing.
 

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The biggest trouble I had with the whole project so far was getting the oil pan off and back in place. Theres a shield/spacer plate between the engine and trans that makes it more difficult to get the oil pan off or on. Maybe if you pried the shield
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towards the torque converter the pan would come off easier🤷‍♂️ as you can see in the pics I bent said spacer plate removing the oil pan. Also the plastic baffle was broken in one place. Not sure if I did that removing or not.. luckily a new baffle was only about $25. I chose to reseal everything that could leak including the pcv drain that goes into the oil pan on the rear. The plastic pcv drain broke when I was getting it out to re seal it. Luckily it was fairly cheap too. ** note** the pcv drain is secured to the oil pan with a tamperproof bolt🤦‍♂️😡 its a 5 point torx best I can tell. I drove a 13mm 12 point socket on it with a couple of extensions from up top. I'm putting a regular bolt back in it when I put it together.Other than that it's pretty straight forward so far. Any ?s about anything ask away!
 

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Here's a pic of the tamperproof bolt that holds the pcv drain in and a pic of the socket driven on it for removal. Lots of tea and sweets required for this project!!!
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