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2014 Cruze Diesel, 2007 Cobalt, 1981 Camaro Z28, 2017 Volt
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So I keep reading about these "bolts from hell" that are accessed through the trans or something? I don't see those?
 

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Why would you replace the seal with the same poorly designed part?
It lasted for 250k with no problems on mine. I'm not sure I trust the aftermarket replacements to do better over time.
 

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So I keep reading about these "bolts from hell" that are accessed through the trans or something? I don't see those?
The
So I keep reading about these "bolts from hell" that are accessed through the trans or something? I don't see those?
There's 2 plastic plugs in the bottom of the bellhousing. About 5 inches up there's 2 T40 bolts. Some suggest a long t40 bit. I used a t40 bit in a socket with a long extension and it did fine for me.
 

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And those hold...what in place? The oil pump?
 

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And those hold...what in place? The oil pump?
No just the oil pan. There is 2 T40 bolts on the other end of the engine but they also only hold the oil pan to the engine. The other 10 bolts are T47
 

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So all the bolts, except for those two, are not behind any kind of covers or anything. So where does the oil pump gasket go that gets replaced? Can't really tell from the pics.
 

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So all the bolts, except for those two, are not behind any kind of covers or anything. So where does the oil pump gasket go that gets replaced? Can't really tell from the pics.
All the other bolts are pretty straight forward. I don't have any pics of where the new pickup seal goes. It goes in the oil pump suction port. It's pretty self explanatory when you get the oil pan off. It Priest right out and the new one pretty easily goes back in.
 

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All the other bolts are pretty straight forward. I don't have any pics of where the new pickup seal goes. It goes in the oil pump suction port. It's pretty self explanatory when you get the oil pan off. It Priest right out and the new one pretty easily goes back in.
How about pics of that seal and or a description of it after that many miles.
 

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It is absolutely a failure point. Anybody who isn’t concerned or proactively replacing it is asking for trouble. Google vauxhall oil pickup seal to see how common it is. Planned obsolescence by GM.

 

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2014 Cruze Diesel, 2007 Cobalt, 1981 Camaro Z28, 2017 Volt
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Planned obsolescence by GM
I'm not so sure it was planned obsolescence, or more just cost-savings on a part. More than likely just the latter.
 

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It is absolutely a failure point. Anybody who isn’t concerned or proactively replacing it is asking for trouble. Google vauxhall oil pickup seal to see how common it is. Planned obsolescence by GM.

Interesting that only 1800 people have signed the petition for such a high rate of catastrophic failure.

Makes me wonder how many of these engines were made over there....Either only a few with many failures or lots of engines with only a small number of failures.

Either way add it to the list of issues to be dealt with.
 

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Interesting that only 1800 people have signed the petition for such a high rate of catastrophic failure.

Makes me wonder how many of these engines were made over there....Either only a few with many failures or lots of engines with only a small number of failures.

Either way add it to the list of issues to be dealt with.
It’s a European engine. All A20DTHs were made at the Opel factory in Germany.

Europe doesn’t have the same consumer protection laws as we do. I’ll remind you that this oil pick seal flaw was completely unknown on this forum until a member lost an engine and we all learned about it. This was no more than a year ago.... I got a great deal on my Cruze diesel however I would not have bought it if I knew about the pickup seal and other issues that appeared after I got it.

The petition is an attempt for GM to take responsibility for their poor engineering. With that said, do a search like I said and you’ll see how many hits on various forums. This engine was used in the Opel, SAAB and Vauxhall sedans and the 2.0 can fail as early as 100k miles.

it’s like gambling. You may be fine for 250k miles or it may go before 100k.

probably should be included when the timing belt is done if not before.
 

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It’s a European engine. All A20DTHs were made at the Opel factory in Germany.

Europe doesn’t have the same consumer protection laws as we do. I’ll remind you that this oil pick seal flaw was completely unknown on this forum until a member lost an engine and we all learned about it. This was no more than a year ago.... I got a great deal on my Cruze diesel however I would not have bought it if I knew about the pickup seal and other issues that appeared after I got it.

The petition is an attempt for GM to take responsibility for their poor engineering. With that said, do a search like I said and you’ll see how many hits on various forums. This engine was used in the Opel, SAAB and Vauxhall sedans and the 2.0 can fail as early as 100k miles.

it’s like gambling. You may be fine for 250k miles or it may go before 100k.

probably should be included when the timing belt is done if not before.
Understand.

Still want to know how many failures vs how many produced or better yet the MTBF before being overly concerned.
 

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@electrozap_29

Few questions

1) Did you replace or notice any issues with the other seals leaking, like the PCV return or oil level sensor? Those are seeping on mine even though I had the PCV seal replaced 100k miles ago - seems like a common failure point. Thankfully it's not enough to cause the oil level to go down.
2) What information did you find/use to determine the correct procedure for replacing the pan sealant? I recall reading it's suppose to be a very thin bead - I imagine so that chunks don't squeeze into the pan and break off and fall in.
3) Where there any spots on the pan, either over the rear main or up front by the oil pump, that you felt were leaking or seeping? Or any other major points of leaking/seeping from the pan?

Thanks for sharing - I think you are one of the first on the board to do this job yourself, or at least that shared pictures.
 

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@electrozap_29

Few questions

1) Did you replace or notice any issues with the other seals leaking, like the PCV return or oil level sensor? Those are seeping on mine even though I had the PCV seal replaced 100k miles ago - seems like a common failure point. Thankfully it's not enough to cause the oil level to go down.
2) What information did you find/use to determine the correct procedure for replacing the pan sealant? I recall reading it's suppose to be a very thin bead - I imagine so that chunks don't squeeze into the pan and break off and fall in.
3) Where there any spots on the pan, either over the rear main or up front by the oil pump, that you felt were leaking or seeping? Or any other major points of leaking/seeping from the pan?

Thanks for sharing - I think you are one of the first on the board to do this job yourself, or at least that shared pictures.
The pcv drain was not leaking, but I resealed the tube that goes into the oil pan and the external tube that goes into that tube. As stated previously the pcv drain tube that goes into the oil pan broke when I was removing it to reseal it. Also note the pcv drain tube bolts to the inside of the oil pan on the bottom. The oil level sensor on mine had been leaking since around 110k or so and progressively got worse. It only seemed to leak when it was running and sprayed right back on the exhaust around the def nozzle and the pipe behind it. I did put a bead of the same sealer the oil pan uses around where the wiring for that sensor comes through when I replaced it. Also the engine oil dipstick tube was leaking. The oil pan seemed to be leaking near the trans. I thought it may be the rear main but after I got the oil pan off the flex plate and torque converter were dry. Where the oil pan meets the rear main it didn't look like it had quite enough sealer on it from the factory so I made sure it had enough when I put it back together😁 in the GM service info it says a 2mm bead of sealant... I was more generous than that. If you look at the pic of the oil pan re installed you can see sealant oozed out around the perimeter. I've resealed many 7.3 powerstroke oil pans that use a similar sealant with plenty (but not way too much) sealant and never had a problem. I'm still going to post a vid or pics of the old pickup seal when I get some time. I can say the old one was less pliable than the new one but not terrible. I'm hoping for at least a half million miles out of this car! However long it runs thats how far I'm going to drive it. There is also some wiring that needs attention under the car while your going through the trouble to save you some heartache later on.
 

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That sounds like exactly where I presume my oil pan is leaking, as well - prior to the drain plug leaking and making a mess after this most recent oil change, I could see plenty of evidence of a leak likely from the oil pan, right near the trans. Not heavy enough that it drips, but I did pull out the same amount of oil that I put in, rather than more due to fuel dilution, but it's still not a huge leak. Obviously no leak would be better.

It basically leaves my Volt as the only one that's not currently leaking oil - my Cobalt has had a leak for years - probably an oil pressure sensor known to leak, but I've never dug into it, and my Camaro needs a rear main seal...because SBC with a two-piece rear main seal.
 

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The pcv drain was not leaking, but I resealed the tube that goes into the oil pan and the external tube that goes into that tube. As stated previously the pcv drain tube that goes into the oil pan broke when I was removing it to reseal it. Also note the pcv drain tube bolts to the inside of the oil pan on the bottom. The oil level sensor on mine had been leaking since around 110k or so and progressively got worse. It only seemed to leak when it was running and sprayed right back on the exhaust around the def nozzle and the pipe behind it. I did put a bead of the same sealer the oil pan uses around where the wiring for that sensor comes through when I replaced it. Also the engine oil dipstick tube was leaking. The oil pan seemed to be leaking near the trans. I thought it may be the rear main but after I got the oil pan off the flex plate and torque converter were dry. Where the oil pan meets the rear main it didn't look like it had quite enough sealer on it from the factory so I made sure it had enough when I put it back together😁 in the GM service info it says a 2mm bead of sealant... I was more generous than that. If you look at the pic of the oil pan re installed you can see sealant oozed out around the perimeter. I've resealed many 7.3 powerstroke oil pans that use a similar sealant with plenty (but not way too much) sealant and never had a problem. I'm still going to post a vid or pics of the old pickup seal when I get some time. I can say the old one was less pliable than the new one but not terrible. I'm hoping for at least a half million miles out of this car! However long it runs thats how far I'm going to drive it. There is also some wiring that needs attention under the car while your going through the trouble to save you some heartache later on.
what sealant(s) did you use for the seal itself and the pan?
 
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