[Diesel Dan]

This is todays project.
2014 CTD, 157k miles

 

[MP81]

I started ours yesterday - good bit more work even than I had anticipated. Wasn't able to get the spindle broken free from the ball joint in order to get the axle out, and that's where I stopped yesterday. Will be back at it here in a few.

 

[Diesel Dan]

Mines going good so far.
Oil pan off in about 1 hr 15 minutes.
Spent too long trying to find a socket for the turbo drain(?). Ended up using 6" vise grips, wasn't tight luckily.

 

[Detrious]

How hard was the old pump pickup seal?

 

[MP81]

Mines going good so far.
Oil pan off in about 1 hr 15 minutes.
Spent too long trying to find a socket for the turbo drain(?). Ended up using 6" vise grips, wasn't tight luckily. View attachment 297925

How did you get the axle out? I've been fighting with the **** ball joint for hours. Absolutely will not break free. And I can't seem to get enough room to push the axle out of the splines in the wheel hub without that.

The drain bolt you're speaking of is probably the PCV breather - has a stupid tamper proof bolt on it?

 

[Diesel Dan]

How hard was the old pump pickup seal?

Definitely not as soft as new.

 

[Diesel Dan]

How did you get the axle out? I've been fighting with the **** ball joint for hours. Absolutely will not break free. And I can't seem to get enough room to push the axle out of the splines in the wheel hub without that.

The drain bolt you're speaking of is probably the PCV breather - has a stupid tamper proof bolt on it?

Yes, pcv...couldn't remember if that or turbo drain.
Ball joint, just removed pinch bolt and pulled down.

 

[MP81]

You definitely got lucky - but being in TN you might not have to deal with as much road salt as us up here which really furthers that galvanic corrosion.

I just finally got mine broken free - took a nice combination of the new deadblow I bought, long ass pry bar, pickle forks (just inboard of the boot) and my good old still-heavy metal hammer. The shock of the metal hammer against the pickle fork really is what broke it free. But it still wasted plenty of time. Ugh. But at least the axle is out now.

 

[Diesel Dan]

It's first 2 yrs were NE ohio, then moved here.
People outside the rust belt have no idea the fun they are missing 😅

 

[Diesel Dan]

It's all back together, working on checking transmission fluid level now.

 

[MP81]

It's first 2 yrs were NE ohio, then moved here.
People outside the rust belt have no idea the fun they are missing 😅

Oh, I know full well - my '81 Z28 spent its entire life up until 2016 in the Los Angeles area - taking that vehicle apart is a comparative dream than all of our other cars (the oldest of which is my '07 Cobalt - though it hasn't seen winter usage since probably 2013).

Yeah, now I am at the point of trying to get the intermediate shaft out - it should split right at the bracket but it seems to have no interest in that. Trans fluid is already drained, need to get this out then I can at least get the oil drained (and get my sample - should have done it yesterday when the oil still had some heat in it, but I didn't want to even start with any of this until I knew the exhaust would come off), and hopefully get PCV breather off.

 

[AdrianCTD]

Awesome work, I wanted to tackle this task my self as well. But I’ll be going out of town for a week so I’ll have my mechanic do this while he does the timing belt. I opted for adapter with viton orings vs the original seal

 

[MP81]

Took a little persuasion but I got it split at the bracket and now all that nonsense is out. Now I can drain the oil.

 

[BDCCruze]

TY for sharing guys. I suspect I'll be doing this sometime soon since I have a few other seeping issues I want to address.

What are the part numbers for the exhaust gaskets?

 

[Diesel Dan]

Awesome work, I wanted to tackle this task my self as well. But I’ll be going out of town for a week so I’ll have my mechanic do this while he does the timing belt. I opted for adapter with viton orings vs the original seal

Have the timing belt and tools in a box too. Will be ready in about 20k miles so I ordered while IDparts had a sale. When I ordered the pickup parts I didn't know if I was going to have time to wait for the euro version.
If the car is around in another 100-150k I'll consider that upgrade, not that hard to change.

 

[Diesel Dan]

TY for sharing guys. I suspect I'll be doing this sometime soon since I have a few other seeping issues I want to address.

What are the part numbers for the exhaust gaskets?

I'll have to check PN of the gaskets.
Only need the 3 bolt one. Don't need to split at the other point. I just ordered it in case, was cheap and will go in the spare gasket drawer of tool box, lol.

 

[MP81]

I ended up splitting mine at the back and just removing the whole thing so it was out of my way. Those bolts weren't much longer for this world, so I'll get a pair of stainless ones and a new gasket for reinstallation. Need new front nuts too, since only one was still the 13mm it was intended to be. Those I may go OE with, assuming I can find the PN for those.

 

[Diesel Dan]

If you have a local fastenal ask for some M8-1.25 flange nuts.
Mild steel, stainless, serrated, conical locking...lots of options.
Fastenal Industrial Supplies, OEM Fasteners, Safety Products & More

 

[MP81]

Looks like there is one nearby - that's a good resource to have. I can't really tell if the stock nuts have any kind of nyloc in there or something, but some kind of M8-1.25 flange nuts should do the trick for the DPF, correct? Out back, I assume it should just be an M8 bolt (with a washer) and flange nut.

Do we know the part number for the ball joint bolt and nut? It's TTY so we technically shouldn't reuse it, and I obliterated the end of mine anyway (I could file it down as it isn't into the threads). I am seeing 11518632 from another thread - should be the same bolt as the gassers since they use the same control arm.

Are you replacing any of the intermediate shaft sealing rings? I couldn't actually find them in the shaft where they seemed to be pointed out in the service manual.

 

[Diesel Dan]

Looks like there is one nearby - that's a good resource to have. I can't really tell if the stock nuts have any kind of nyloc in there or something, but some kind of M8-1.25 flange nuts should do the trick for the DPF, correct? Out back, I assume it should just be an M8 bolt (with a washer) and flange nut.

Do we know the part number for the ball joint bolt and nut? It's TTY so we technically shouldn't reuse it, and I obliterated the end of mine anyway (I could file it down as it isn't into the threads). I am seeing 11518632 from another thread - should be the same bolt as the gassers since they use the same control arm.

Are you replacing any of the intermediate shaft sealing rings? I couldn't actually find them in the shaft where they seemed to be pointed out in the service manual.

Don't use nyloc on exhaust. Gets too hot. Look for "flange lock nuts" or "serrated flange nuts".

I just reused the OE pinch bolt/nut.

Didn't replace any of the axles seals either. Cleaned the axles and applied some petroleum jelly to the seals. Little bit of oil on the CV splines and threads too.