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I ended up just getting regular (stainless) flange nuts, but I suspect those should be okay, given the stockers weren't serrated either. Ordered all from Fastenal, should be ready for pickup in a day or two.

Yeah, unless the dealer has the in stock, I'll probably re-use the two axle seals and the washer, as they all looked to be in good shape.
 

· COTM Winner
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Dealer did not have the seals in stock, but did have the washer so I grabbed one of those because it was only a few bucks. Same with the trans drain washer and the check plug O-ring. I didn't replace either the last time I drained fluid or any of the times I checked it so sure why not.
 

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Something I did forget to order were those two plugs that cover the bellhousing bolt access...those totally disintegrated. One of them actually just forced its way up in there and rotated to where I can't get it out the plugged hole - hoping I can get in there with the pan off and retrieve it...but definitely would like to plug those holes after...
 
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
What are the part numbers for the exhaust gaskets?
The Elring is the only gasket I needed. If I was to replace the 2 bolt I'd try to find a steel one like the Mahle.
I also installed a new drain plug and gasket while there. Did wish I had new o-rings for the PCV pipe and oil level sensor "while I was there".
Rectangle Parallel Font Plot Circle
 

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The Elring is the only gasket I needed. If I was to replace the 2 bolt I'd try to find a steel one like the Mahle.
I also installed a new drain plug and gasket while there. Did wish I had new o-rings for the PCV pipe and oil level sensor "while I was there".
View attachment 297944
As far as I can tell, the Mahle is the OE gasket for the rear, and I would bet the Elring is the OE for the front.

How did you get the oil pan off? I'm heavily thinking of getting a oil pan separator to get this thing split because it has no intention of coming apart, even with about 10 minutes of solid whacking on the pan itself to try to break it loose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
How did you get the oil pan off? I'm heavily thinking of getting a oil pan separator to get this thing split because it has no intention of coming apart, even with about 10 minutes of solid whacking on the pan itself to try to break it loose.
Couple of hooked pry bars. Looked around and was eventually able to find a couple of spots that I could pry down on. I didn't have to hammer on the pan at all. Still take a little effort to break the RTV seal.

The rear of the pan hooked the spacer plate between the engine/trans and bent the corners of the spacer some. I just trimmed it with some tin snipes to remove the bent edges.
 

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I do have a similar small pry bar...that might work. Seems par for the course at this point for everything not to come apart. :LOL:

I'll order the seal cutter and see where I get tomorrow. Hopefully that is "got it off" and then I can cancel the order.
 

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I've got one that is similar to the top one - how bad did it chew up the pan or block surface?
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I've got one that is similar to the top one - how bad did it chew up the pan or block surface?
Had one mark the size of a center punch dimple on pan rail. Probably didn't have to but couple passes with flat file, all good.
 

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Okay, I'll give that a shot today using that, or a small prybar I have.

And I'm glad you mention the corners of the plate between the trans and the block/oil pan - I'll cut those corners off as well to assist in reinstallation. They're not really doing much anyway.

Do we have an idea what the part numbers might be on those plugs for the rear-most bolts in the bellhousing? I cannot for the life of me find them, if they even exist as a saleable item in the first place. I might be able to find some other form of rubber plug that I can jam in there if need be.
 
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· COTM Winner
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Sweet, just got it off without much prying. It sitting overnight with all but four bolts removed (and those four probably with a 1/4" gap to the pan) definitely seemed to loosen things up. Didn't take too much more wrestling with it to get it to start breaking loose. That shield in the back definitely is going to make reinstallation suck, so yeah I might just trim the corners and test fit a few times before putting the RTV on and doing it for the final time. Ideally you don't want a ton of dust in there, but it's a dry area so it should be okay if some ends up in there.
 

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It would appear the part number for these plugs is 55562294 - so of course it's basically nonexistent.
 

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Do you happen to have a pic of how it looks with the oil pan mounted back in? I assume this made it **** easier to load the oil pan in vertically as intended. Just reinstalling the pan last night temporarily was a pain in the ass and absolutely will just wipe the RTV right off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Not sure if I have a pic of it installed.
It did go in easily with it trimmed. Had no issues.
 

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Good to hear. I don't really see much of a better option...aside from if they had made this a two-piece. You already have two mounting holes - easy enough to split below the end of the engine block and bolt it on either side, but alas. I'd prefer not to have to cut this open, just to keep more dust and road spray out, but it's honestly far up there, and even before this it's not like it's 100% sealed anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Yeah, I prefer the 99% of other gm engines that don't use that pita spacer plate.
 

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It's gotta be some weirdness due to it being a VM engine with an Aisin trans.

I'd really rather not cut it, but I'd also like to have the RTV seal well, so...
 
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