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So, as a result of my recent shift flares when cold, I decided it would be a good idea to change fluid again. As per the good advice in the DIY thread, I started with the fill plug. I put my T50 snugly down in there and started turning, but something didn't feel right. I tried pulling it out and putting it back in, making sure it was nice and square, and this time was sure I was stripping it. I looked down there and saw metal filings in the little opening. I got out my trusty extended magnet and was able to get them all up out of there, but by then it was too late.

So, my best thought is to use some JB Weld and "weld" (glue) about a 13 MM or maybe 15 MM nut on the top of the fill plug and then try to take it off that way.

Good idea? Bad idea?
 

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So, as a result of my recent shift flares when cold, I decided it would be a good idea to change fluid again. As per the good advice in the DIY thread, I started with the fill plug. I put my T50 snugly down in there and started turning, but something didn't feel right. I tried pulling it out and putting it back in, making sure it was nice and square, and this time was sure I was stripping it. I looked down there and saw metal filings in the little opening. I got out my trusty extended magnet and was able to get them all up out of there, but by then it was too late.

So, my best thought is to use some JB Weld and "weld" (glue) about a 13 MM or maybe 15 MM nut on the top of the fill plug and then try to take it off that way.

Good idea? Bad idea?
I haven't even looked at my transmission from bottom side, still on free oil changes. I am a little confused, if you rounded the fill plug how did you get metal filings inside the transmission? If I read your post correctly isn't the long term fix just a new transmission fill plug?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I haven't even looked at my transmission from bottom side, still on free oil changes. I am a little confused, if you rounded the fill plug how did you get metal filings inside the transmission? If I read your post correctly isn't the long term fix just a new transmission fill plug?
Sorry - meant that the metal shavings were on the inside of the fill plug, where the T50 bit fits in. I would definitely replace the plug after I was able to remove it. I'm mainly wondering if anybody's used JB Weld in this way before. I don't know if it would stand up to that much torque (trying to loosen the plug). Oh, and the fill plug is on top of the transmission, in the engine compartment.
 

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I haven't even looked at my transmission from bottom side, still on free oil changes. I am a little confused, if you rounded the fill plug how did you get metal filings inside the transmission? If I read your post correctly isn't the long term fix just a new transmission fill plug?
The OP is referencing the fill plug that is a female torx of T50 dimension.
The Torx bit was/is stripping the 6 pointed hole in the fill plug and he used a magnet to remove the shavings in the hole to be certain the torx bit is fully seated in the hopes of not doing further damage.

diesel: I think this is a Torx Plus fastener......the Plus has wider shoulders to prevent this slippage and although a standard torx will often work successfully if the fastener is not too tight, the potential of strippage is very high.

If the fastener is not is not too badly wrecked, meaning the bit you used did not totally pull the shoulders off the plug, try to get ahold of a Torx Plus of the correct dimension and hammer it into the plug so it seats fully.
Cross your fingers and try again.

BTW....google Torx and Torx Plus to see the shoulder varience I am describing.

Good luck!

Rob
 

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You would most likely have better luck putting some jb in the hole and then putting the bit in until it sets up, highly doubt it would hold up if you just attatched a nut with it, should be able to then remove bit from plug after removal.
 

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Thanks Rob for the explanation, makes better sense. Just never looked at he plug on transmission. Perhaps there is a spec on the plug how many foot pounds on the plug, maybe you over torqued it on last change? Sometimes if I have someone else change oil on my car they sure seem to over tighten the oil plug, I realize the design is different but still.
 

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Not so sure the epoxy will hold, the fill plug on top with mine was not a torx, it was internal hex, I think it was 8mm. If you had an internal hex like mine and used a torx, that would cause what you describe. Also, a hex bit might work if there is enough metal remaining to get traction. If that doesn't work, try a properly sized easy out bit. In any case, you'll want a new plug. I also found mine missing the O-ring.. it has an O-ring Grove, having a set of many O-rings I just found one to put on when I reinstalled, without the O-ring I'd bet that plug is on too tight, if that is true for yours as well.

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jb weld will most definitely hold.

this thread is why i bought a new plug BEFORE i did my trans fluid change, i knew at some point i would strip a plug like that whether it be the first time or 5yrs down the road
 

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Diesel, would you say the cause was the use of the standard torx instead of the torx plus? Or something else?

I didn't even know torx plus existed.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Diesel, would you say the cause was the use of the standard torx instead of the torx plus? Or something else?

I didn't even know torx plus existed.
On the bit I used, it says "T50". I am not sure exactly what this means. It did work the first time I changed it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
jb weld will most definitely hold.

this thread is why i bought a new plug BEFORE i did my trans fluid change, i knew at some point i would strip a plug like that whether it be the first time or 5yrs down the road
Do you have the p/n for the fill plug handy?
 

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Diesel, did you get the fluid changed at all or did this plug issue happen the first time you were doing the drain?
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Thank you.

Diesel, did you get the fluid changed at all or did this plug issue happen the first time you were doing the drain?
I was able to change successfully at 124K miles. This time, I wasn't able to do any changes at all.

Great. Another set of tools I'll have to get. Well, better I learn now than the hard way.
I wonder if the DIY should be updated with this. The T50 worked the first time for me, but maybe that was just lucky. EDIT: Just looked at 93183573 - It seems to be a torx?

93183573.jpg
images.jpg

Second EDIT: This is not the right p/n. The one on the top (that I stripped) I posted below.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So, I have decided that JB Weld will definitely be used. Can I get some more opinions on which will likely be the best option:

1. JB Weld the T50 socket into the hole and try again that way.

2. JB Weld a 13-15 MM Nut on top of the fill plug and try that way
 

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Yeah, that is definitely a regular torx. But it could possibly be a T55. Torx bits need to fit suuuuuuuper tight. If there's any play, it's likely the next size larger. Otherwise you risk doing what you did, or shearing the Torx bit off.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yeah, that is definitely a regular torx. But it could possibly be a T55. Torx bits need to fit suuuuuuuper tight. If there's any play, it's likely the next size larger. Otherwise you risk doing what you did, or shearing the Torx bit off.
I've seen on some of the Saab forums that it's a T55. I am going to add a note to the DIY.
 

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Thank you.



I was able to change successfully at 124K miles. This time, I wasn't able to do any changes at all.



I wonder if the DIY should be updated with this. The T50 worked the first time for me, but maybe that was just lucky. EDIT: Just looked at 93183573 - It seems to be a torx?

View attachment 208618
View attachment 208626
The fill plug is on top, that picture is the level plug, inside the drain plug on the bottom of the transmission..

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 

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On the bit I used, it says "T50". I am not sure exactly what this means. It did work the first time I changed it.
So, I have decided that JB Weld will definitely be used. Can I get some more opinions on which will likely be the best option:

1. JB Weld the T50 socket into the hole and try again that way.

2. JB Weld a 13-15 MM Nut on top of the fill plug and try that way
in is better

how to add pressure will be the tough part
 
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