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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
UPDATED** MAKE SURE YOU READ POST #5, PLEASE AND THANK YOU.

So I am pulling everything off the engine and cleaning it up, cleaning all wires and connections, replacing seals and lines, installing a pcv fix kit, porting my intake manifold, making a DIY honeycomb for my arm cai and just cleaning the whole engine bay.

The inside of my intake at the pcv valve is super grimy and my turbo looks really burnt inside. I have a little play in the turbo but not much at all, I think it's normal. When I pull the bar attached to the wastegate it's hard to pull but seems to open fine. I can o ly pull it half way open with my own strength though. Is this normal. Also what do you make from the grime in the intake manifold and the burnt turbo? Are turbos normally thos burnt inside? This is my first turbo'd car that I've done all the work on myself. I'm still learning. ?

I also added pics of my DIY honeycomb, I just pulled the one out of the stock intake box and took a dremel too it. ?
 

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I'm not a turbo expert by far, but they do contain/transmit burnt exhaust gasses under pressure at that. I think it is probably fine.

Remember that the porting will require you to purchase and install a tune.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I'm not a turbo expert by far, but they do contain/transmit burnt exhaust gasses under pressure at that. I think it is probably fine.

Remember that the porting will require you to purchase and install a tune.
Okay great, yeah this is my first turbo car so it's all a learning experience for me. Thanks for the input and I'm currently tuned by BNR. I've emailed them I'm waiting for my updated tune file so when I put this bad booy back on it's ready to go!

Also any opinions on what would be the best to clean the manifold and turbo inside and out? Currently just have soap and water, throttle body cleaner, sensor cleaner, electrical contact cleaner and some brake cleaner. Could I use any of these inside the turbo and manifold?
 

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I can only say what I would try on my own stuff ... I am not sure about the internals of turbo, but I would assume if you are careful, turn it large opening down and spray the brake cleaner in it, just not on the impeller area and let the excess drip out. It will dry on its own after that. As for the manifold, I would try and avoid rubbery stuff, but I would use brake cleaner as well. Soap and water and elbow grease is safer though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I can only say what I would try on my own stuff ... I am not sure about the internals of turbo, but I would assume if you are careful, turn it large opening down and spray the brake cleaner in it, just not on the impeller area and let the excess drip out. It will dry on its own after that. As for the manifold, I would try and avoid rubbery stuff, but I would use brake cleaner as well. Soap and water and elbow grease is safer though.
I know you said that you're no expert but what do you make of this?? My turbo has the normal crack that these turbos have but it seems longer also there's another crack opposite it. Where the wastegate opens the is sticking when it trys to close. Time to replace the turbo? I added a vimeo video of the wastegate pin, so you can see.

Alloy wheel Wheel Auto part Rim Tire


Wheel Auto part Tire Automotive wheel system Rim


https://vimeo.com/329846202

 

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That housing is...very much broken.
 
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Did the car throw any codes before you disassembled it? If it did throw P0299 then the cracks are causing it.
If it didn't then it's like all of these turbos. The majority have these haircracks on the wastegate passage but it doesnt affect the engine up to a certain point...and it is considered to be normal....!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That housing is...very much broken.
That is the conclusion I'm coming too..

Did the car throw any codes before you disassembled it? If it did throw P0299 then the cracks are causing it.
If it didn't then it's like all of these turbos. The majority have these haircracks on the wastegate passage but it doesnt affect the engine up to a certain point...and it is considered to be normal....!!
It threw a p0299 code a while back, I also had gotten p0171 & p0172 at different times, p1101, p0106 & p0101, I don't think I'm forgetting any. I found a boost leak where the intake manifold and throttle body meet. I replaced the gasket and fixed that but the car still seems to not have its full power and was idling very badly and stalling at stop lights once and a while.. My fuel trims were way off and my desired boost and my boost pressure was reading a constant 100PSI. I sent a data log to BNR and was told it was mechanical and it looked like a very big exhaust leak. So from my understanding and exhaust leak can only cause a car to rough idle is if it's before air is forced into the system. So I personally don't know much about turbo cars or cars in general, I've only worked on small engines like dirt bikes and four wheelers. So I figured this must mean a crack in the exhaust manifold. So inspected and couldn't see anything major but the 2 cracks inside which to me look a bit bigger then others I've seen but could just be the angle and photos etc. I took the wastegate actuator off and played with the wastegate to see if the pin was working correctly and it seems to be getting stuck often and making a loud squeaking noise and I seen in a video if this is happening since the wastegate pin is not replaceable you have to replace the whole manifold/turbo. I also read that if this sticks it will make the car act like it has a vacuum leak which was happening and I checked everything and replaced sensors to no result. I figured this must be the cause. So I found out yesterday BNR is releasing the new GTX250 turbo at the end of this month and since I'm having issues and I've tried everything else I'm going to replace / upgrade my turbo at the end of the month and hopefully get rid of the issues I was having.
 

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FYI
i have been running a ported intake for over 40k miles with NO tune. no drive-abilty issues at all. at 3500 RPM and up it feels GREAT

I'm not a turbo expert by far, but they do contain/transmit burnt exhaust gasses under pressure at that. I think it is probably fine.

Remember that the porting will require you to purchase and install a tune.
 

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FYI
i have been running a ported intake for over 40k miles with NO tune. no drive-abilty issues at all. at 3500 RPM and up it feels GREAT
Almost 80% of what I have read, here and on the Sonic forum says you will need a tune. It talks about fuel trims, stumbling and other aspects that I have forgotten, but the information is still here for the reading. As I have not personally ported mine, although I have one sitting on the floor next to me waiting for just that, I try to recommend things with a bit of caution built in.
 

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Almost 80% of what I have read, here and on the Sonic forum says you will need a tune. It talks about fuel trims, stumbling and other aspects that I have forgotten, but the information is still here for the reading. As I have not personally ported mine, although I have one sitting on the floor next to me waiting for just that, I try to recommend things with a bit of caution built in.
On the sonic forums the conclusion is that if you are running a stock tune it is able to compensate for the removal of the air dams.if you running a tune it must be compensated with an update.

http://www.sonicownersforum.com/forum/do-yourself-articles/4410-porting-intake-manifold.html

IF you just read the 1st post then you will assume that is what is needed, if you continue deeper in, starting at post 8 and on, you will see that a stock tune is good EXCEPT that it stops making power at about 6k and a tune will take you to 6.5k

For me 500 RPM is not worth getting a tune.

Yes I did read all 54 pages of that thread

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I know you said that you're no expert but what do you make of this?? My turbo has the normal crack that these turbos have but it seems longer also there's another crack opposite it. Where the wastegate opens the is sticking when it trys to close. Time to replace the turbo? I added a vimeo video of the wastegate pin, so you can see.

View attachment 270435

View attachment 270439

https://vimeo.com/329846202


If you put that turbo back in, you will be taking it back out in a few months. that crack will become a hole. How much is the GTX250 turbo anyways?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I know you said that you're no expert but what do you make of this?? My turbo has the normal crack that these turbos have but it seems longer also there's another crack opposite it. Where the wastegate opens the is sticking when it trys to close. Time to replace the turbo? I added a vimeo video of the wastegate pin, so you can see.

View attachment 270435

View attachment 270439

https://vimeo.com/329846202


If you put that turbo back in, you will be taking it back out in a few months. that crack will become a hole. How much is the GTX250 turbo anyways?
Okay thanks for the input man. The GTX14 is priced at $1624.99 and the GTX250 is supposed to be replacing it. So I would assume it would start at at least that but seeing as it's an upgraded version of the GTX14, I could see it being a bit more expensive. Currently I don't think the price has been released though. I'm currently waiting to find out myself.
 
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